Gauge Cluster Teardown and Rebuild - Beware, Pic Heavy!

[HotRodPC]

I normally just look for a capacior that is swollen or leaking, or any other little component like a diode that looks like it got hot, or a spot around the board where a component got hot, and start from there. Capacitors you can usually read the casing on what it is, a diode you can identify by it's stripes, then look up the values for those parts and with a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohms Meter) test the part by putting the leads on both sides of it compare the values. When you find that one or 2 that are not within the correct value, that's likely the culprit. Many times, you'll find the diode you need and go to Radio Shack and buy a 5 pack even though you only need 1 for $1.99 or $2.99.

This is also why I kinda hoard ****. Computer motherboards, power supplies, circuit boards from TV's and such, then at those times I don't feel like going to Radio Shack, I'll look on other boards for little parts that have the same value and sometimes can get by robbing them off of a salvage board.
I once fixed an electronic circuit board for my rent house's Central Heat and Air unit with a used part. The board was going to have to be special ordered, take 7-10 days to get leaving my tenants without heat and cost $220+. Saved with a FREE used part from a computer motherboard IIRC. I wish I could get good at soldering. If the parts are to close together, I don't do a neat enough job to make all repairs, although I'll at least try until it's beyond repair.

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

Nothing on my board looks like it leaked or got hot or had any kind of trauma to it. Everything looks fine to my eyes. To test capacitors and diodes and stuff, do I need power going to it? Or can I just take my tester to it and get readings that way? Remember I am electronics ignorant, but I would like to learn.

One of the better write-ups I have found can be found here... http://howtoalmanac.com/kevin/projects/automotive/tachfixtruck.htm It was posted on this site at one time, but I thought I should post it again.

My tach is completely dead, so I am going to start by replacing the LM181 semi-conductor, (the big black piece) with the suggested NTE1670 Integrated Circuit Air Core Meter Driver. Bear in mind, I have no clue what any of that is, but let's give it a go! That should get it going, and if it reads off, install the potentiometer that they reference over the resistor that goes bad. And if all else fails, I did find that Willcox Corvette, Inc actually makes replacement circuit boards specifically for our trucks... http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_info.php?cPath=2088&products_id=27189

 

[Stewzer55]

It looks like they repop a lot of older GM stuff like that.

 

[HotRodPC]

Nothing on my board looks like it leaked or got hot or had any kind of trauma to it. Everything looks fine to my eyes. To test capacitors and diodes and stuff, do I need power going to it? Or can I just take my tester to it and get readings that way? Remember I am electronics ignorant, but I would like to learn.

One of the better write-ups I have found can be found here... http://howtoalmanac.com/kevin/projects/automotive/tachfixtruck.htm It was posted on this site at one time, but I thought I should post it again.

My tach is completely dead, so I am going to start by replacing the LM181 semi-conductor, (the big black piece) with the suggested NTE1670 Integrated Circuit Air Core Meter Driver. Bear in mind, I have no clue what any of that is, but let's give it a go! That should get it going, and if it reads off, install the potentiometer that they reference over the resistor that goes bad. And if all else fails, I did find that Willcox Corvette, Inc actually makes replacement circuit boards specifically for our trucks... http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_info.php?cPath=2088&products_id=27189

Oh yeah, Git'r Done. I'd sure like to see you get this one figured out.

I think Retro and Foamy are prolly more the electronic guru nerds. All I know is just enough to get into trouble and make for damn sure it's not worth fixing and tearing it up real good beyond repair. But hey, I've surprised myself a few times and actually fixed ****. Fixed a timer on a dryer once and I even forget what I did now. I think I had the wrong timer from a donor, but it was the same motor, so I swapped motors in the original timer with the motor from the wrong timer and made it work.

 

[rich weyand]

You might find this interesting. It let me have dual gauges for dual tanks.
http://www.gmsports.com/content/new-tachometer-1973-1986-chevy-and-gmc-trucks

 

[HotRodPC]

You might find this interesting. It let me have dual gauges for dual tanks.
http://www.gmsports.com/content/new-tachometer-1973-1986-chevy-and-gmc-trucks

Yep, we've had that one show up here too before. That was the first think I said. A dual fuel gauge set up. Or someone could keep their clock and have a fuel gauge.

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

You might find this interesting. It let me have dual gauges for dual tanks.
http://www.gmsports.com/content/new-tachometer-1973-1986-chevy-and-gmc-trucks

Believe me, I have been following your truck for some time now.

Awesome! You are the second person I know of to do this, and both had great results!

Personally I don't like that the fonts are different. My OCD prevents me from doing this mod because of it.

Remember this from the other 73-87 truck site? That was me. And I still hold true to it.

I am dedicated to getting this old one working, just to say I did. Having a hell of a time finding that integrated circuit/air core meter driver to buy. I have a feeling it is no longer made either. Hoping I can find an equivalent somewhere.

I have also been screwing around with an extra temp gauge for my alternative lighting project. Found some lexan/clear plastic laying around in our shop. I also learned our laser operator was fired, so there is no good person to go to for that. I'm thinking of putting my name in for the position, that would be cool.

 

[rich weyand]

Yeah, I have OCD *and* ADD.

Everything has to be perfect, but just for a few seconds.

 

[ADTrumble]

Are there different gauge clusters for manuals?

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Are there different gauge clusters for manuals?

No, the gear indicator is removable.

 

[ADTrumble]

No, the gear indicator is removable.

Really
That would b awsome

 

[ADTrumble]

No, the gear indicator is removable.

Or just find a bezel without the window?

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Or just find a bezel without the window?

All bezels are the same. Just the gear indicator is screwed in. It's just not installed in manual trucks.

You must be registered for see images attach

On some though, I had found, they put a piece of electrical tape behind the clear lens.

 

[ADTrumble]

All bezels are the same. Just the gear indicator is screwed in. It's just not installed in manual trucks.

You must be registered for see images attach

On some though, I had found, they put a piece of electrical tape behind the clear lens.

Awsome means i just need the right year and hopefully find a tach

 

[chevn-up]

Super job. It's easy to see how dedicated you are.