Fuel selector valve

[hatzie]

Yes i do have a single tank truck.
So i will do what you said just drill a 1/2 inch hole and put that toggle in.

I have a parts truck that has that switch but it did not have any of the wiring for the valve.

I am not very good with wiring im only 16 i can do easy stuff like wiring car stereos and subs. I have already replaced the wiring that runs to my tail lights and the harness that runs the motor that wasnt to hard but the wiring diagram that painless sends with their product is easy to understand.
Im sorry but what you are saying is confusing to me.
Yes i could put different terminals in and put new wires in it.
Thank you for the patience and understanding i really appreciate it.

I'm not the best teacher there ever was. I tend to leave things out that are obvious to me...

I PM'ed @gmachinz about what you might need to do this the easy way... buy a semi-custom sub-harness already setup to plug into your rig using the motorized valve and the Polarity reversing toggle switch I mentioned above.

 

[gmachinz]

A pre-built harness with the correct lengths and looming, retainers and grommets will make your install much easier.

 

[gmachinz]

Here’s a basic stock replacement 78-86 harness using the 6-port valve and I can assemble one specifically for 73-78 glass fused trucks as well.

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[hatzie]

Here’s a basic stock replacement 78-86 harness using the 6-port valve and I can assemble one specifically for 73-78 glass fused trucks as well.

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Nice... Grommet and all.

Changing that harness over to use the toggle switch is pretty easy.
You need the power connector for your fuse panel... I saw you mention Painless in one of your posts. If you have a painless wiring ATC/ATO plastic fuse panel you won't need to change anything on the Harnessworx NL2 harness other than the switch plug.

This is how that Polarity Reversing toggle switch plug swap is done... Both plugs use the exact same Female Packard 56 terminals.

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[AzGeo]

When replacing my fuel tank valve (original equipment) on my 1979 dually, I opted to use "2 three port valves" , since the OEM 6 port is not available . My OEM wire harness switches the fuel tank senders at the dash mounted switch, while the newer "Pollack valve" , requires the sender wires to be extended all the way back to the valve itself . I installed TWO of the 3 port valves, and a relay to control the "electrical load of two valves" , so that my original switch would not be overloaded . IMO, the newer "Pollack valve" is more prone to early failures than the old "solenoid and spring" type, and I like to "fix things once" .

 

[hatzie]

Both valves were made by Pollack.

The only downside to ganging two valves would be if the return valve failed so you were filling one tank with the return fuel from the other.

I've seen some creative folks plumb a fuel pump from the AUX tank to the main tank. They switch the fuel pump on when the main tank gets very near empty and it re-fills while they're driving. Have to be careful doing that. You could over-fill the main tank. I'd use a 16gallon AUX and a 20 gallon main then I'd switch it on when the needle is very near E if I were doing that.

 

[miller78square]

Ok i think i am going to get that wiring harness that gmachinz posted. How much is the harness? I think it will make it a lot easier for me. Thank you everyone for all the help i really appreciate it.

 

[Dan Brown]

You can find wiring diagrams all over the internet showing the tank wiring, just Google it and thank Al Gore for inventing the internet.