Fuel Gauge passed full

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

TruckIt75

Junior Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2023
Posts
4
Reaction score
3
Location
New York
First Name
Daniel
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
Sierra Grande
Engine Size
400
Hey everyone I have a ‘75 GMC Sierra Grande with dual tanks. We have it set up that we only run the drivers side tank. My issue is that the fuel gauge is way passed full and has been since we bought the truck. I recently changed the printed dash circuit, the contact pieces for the studs, the cluster housing, and swapped in LED bulbs.
I’m not sure where to head next with this. Any help is greatly appreciated
 

TruckIt75

Junior Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2023
Posts
4
Reaction score
3
Location
New York
First Name
Daniel
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
Sierra Grande
Engine Size
400
That was changed as well, I should I’ve mentioned that
 

TruckIt75

Junior Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2023
Posts
4
Reaction score
3
Location
New York
First Name
Daniel
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
Sierra Grande
Engine Size
400
I’ll check that thank you. I’m not sure we never really messed with the switch. The truck was set up to run a single tank by the previous owner and there was no power going to the switch I believe
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,305
Reaction score
2,282
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
With dual tanks, the wiring path to the sending units is more complicated than you would expect, so maybe the PO screwed up the connections.

The wire from the dash cluster is tan and it runs down the passenger side frame rail to near that tank. If there was a single tank (passenger side in ‘75) it would just plug in there to the sending unit There should be a round connector inside the frame rail where it can be disconnected.

Wiring from the dash switch runs through the firewall and down the drivers side frame rail to the area of the drivers side tank.
- one tan/white wire comes out of rhe loom and connects to the driver's side sending unit. The rest of the wires cross to the passenger side.
- from there one wire comes comes out of the bundle and connects to the solenoid power terminal
- the connector in the gauge wire on that side is popped apart and other two loom wires are inserted so they connect to (1) gauge wire running up the frame rail and (2) sending unit wire from passenger side tank

If you only want to keep the drivers side tank you could simplify the gauge wiring. Just find the gauge wire on the passenger side, disconnect it inside the frame rail, and verify that it works properly with the gauge (full when grounded, etc.). Then extend it across and connect it to the sending unit on the drivers side tank.

Another possibility is that someone pulled the engine or wiring inside the engine compartment and cut the sending unit wire. From the gauge cluster it runs through the firewall and across the back of the engine compartment, and then down the passenger side frame rail. It is vulnerable where it runs across the firewall.
 

Elliot W

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2021
Posts
161
Reaction score
271
Location
CT
First Name
Elliot
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
Since it hasn't been spelled out here and I just went through this, when the gauge reads past full, it means open ground (as in there is literally some discontinuity in the circuit somewhere between the gage and the sending unit ground). This could be anything in that circuit from bad terminal connections at the plug to the gauge cluster, cut wire as Bruce mentioned, a bad sending unit, or a bad ground at the end of the sending unit.

Best way to check is by doing continuity checks with an ohm meter. Alternatively you can take the tan wire Bruce mentioned and ground it to see if the gauge moves. Keep in mind that the ignition has to be on for the gauge to readjust, and sometimes the gauge moves slowly when adjusting to the ground.
 

Jimbarry

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2021
Posts
156
Reaction score
402
Location
California
First Name
Jim
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
C30
Engine Size
454
Try replacing the selector switch in the dash, that's what fixed mine.
 

tebgm81

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2021
Posts
4
Reaction score
15
Location
Soldotna, Ak.
First Name
Terry E.
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
K35
Engine Size
350
I've been chasing this for awhile but think I am closing in on it. The wiring path mentioned above is good info for tracking. The grounds, continuity, and resistor on the back of the gauge need checking.
I think my problem originated last year when trying to get at the dash lights. I recently found the main dash circuit board plug wasn't fully seated.
 

Elliot W

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2021
Posts
161
Reaction score
271
Location
CT
First Name
Elliot
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
That could do it as I believe the fuel gauge wire is on the end of the two column harness. Also check the metal transfer surface where the cluster meets the harness plug. The metal on the cluster basically looks like a gum wrapper metal. Mine was ripped off but fortunately I saw it so I had to repair it with HVAC tape.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,439
Posts
958,024
Members
36,810
Latest member
ProMod
Top