frozen front axle

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MrMarty51

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If You find an NP205, be sure that it has all of the adapters for the transmixer You are going to be using, that is, the pieces that bolts it to the transmission.
Other wise, they are kind of spendy, especially if You are rigging it to fit a TH400.
 

Dazed

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Wow! Lot of good advice and options to choose from. Will have to check what is available in my budget and go from there but definetly usefull info. Will post some pics when I am ready to start.

Thanks Again!!
 

crazy4offroad

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D44 and 10-bolt are virtually the same. You're talking about an 8.5 " ring gear (10-bolt) and 8.625" ring gear (D44), just 1/8" difference. Pinions are practically the same, although actual gear ratio may make for a stronger R&P combination. I don't think either have necked-down axleshafts, and otherwise the axle joints are not much different. Chromoly axleshafts in either axle would make them much more durable units, but not as strong as a D60 with stock axleshafts. Increasing the durability of certain parts just gives false confidence, that moves the weak link somewhere else in the chain (carrier, hubs, driveshaft, etc). My advice? Just don't jump it anymore. Not only are we talking trussed axles to handle it, but the frame would need boxed and additional crossmembers to strengthen it, shock mounts, steering box, etc etc etc. No truck is Supertruck in relatively stock form, you have to build a Supertruck.
 

GreaseDog

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If I were in your shoes, I would start by removing the front tire and looking for anything obviously binding. From there I would make sure the hubs are unlocked. Try rolling them by hand. If they still don't roll, remove the calipers. If they stilldon't move, then remove the locking hubs. If they don't move after that, you might want to start looking into another axle.

I have had two Dana 60s, and currently have a 10 bolt front, where the brake pads have rusted to the rotor, not allowing the wheel to spin. my 77 K20 also had this issue, it made it very difficult to move, even just dragging it onto a trailer and back offwhen we got to my house with it. Our solution was to remove all brake linings from the truck. We just remove the pads from the front and bolted the calipers back in place, and remove the shoes from the back. No chance of it happening again that way.
 

HotRodPC

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I have had two Dana 60s, and currently have a 10 bolt front, where the brake pads have rusted to the rotor, not allowing the wheel to spin. .

That's what I'm thinking. Mud was mentioned, then he mentioned hosed it off. Then it's sat since then. Mud+Water+Sitting=Stuck. But, worse case scenario, since there's no telling what this Fall Guy stunt did to the axle, :rofl: keep an eye out for a new used one.
 

Dazed

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A lot of really good advice there, thank you to everyone! Was really needing advice on the choice to do axle work / swap where it sat (soft uneven ground covered in barkdust) or ideas to free it so could move it, so this is what i did. Jacked up the front with jack on two wood blocks, boards under jackstands to hold it up. Left is sticky, right is solid. Then pulled the tires, removed brake pads, both sides move, so I wedged wood blocks into the callipers, hung them from the frame in wire hangers and put the tires back on. ROLLS!! Straight into the shop.



I guess if the axle is unstuck I should start a new thread with all that.
 
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Dazed

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So fab to reinforce, of course; purchase bolt on upgrades: if I have to; but stop using my truck like a real truck is not an option. IMO that would be like building a mud truck, just to spend 6K on paint and never get use it cause you don't want to scratch it? Just doesn't make sense to me! (and my "paint" job is rattle canned rhino lining; cheap!)
 
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HotRodPC

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Kinda Seperated this a little bit and moved the land part to the Great Outdoors.
 

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