Front axle off set to passenger side

[iamtherealJayy]

My guess on caster was somewhat close I thought it had something to do with shock angle, I did not replace ball joints as mine checked out visibly perfect with no tears in boots or anything. I took it to a frame place and the dude was a d-head about it saying he could entertain fixing it but no guarentee. But then again he didn’t agree to thinking fixing a rust bubble was a good idea since I had a dent in the bed… the dent won’t make my bed rot away asshat..

 

[AuroraGirl]

My guess on caster was somewhat close I thought it had something to do with shock angle, I did not replace ball joints as mine checked out visibly perfect with no tears in boots or anything. I took it to a frame place and the dude was a d-head about it saying he could entertain fixing it but no guarentee. But then again he didn’t agree to thinking fixing a rust bubble was a good idea since I had a dent in the bed… the dent won’t make my bed rot away asshat..

Hes viewing the preservation of an older truck as all or nothing. He cant see the value in a dented truck with no rust because in his mind it being dented is enough to condemn the truck/use of it.

I obviously cant be a rust snob, but hell be damned the next bed and future stuff I do keeping rust minimal is more important than any dents LOL

 

[1STLS1]

That's just mind blowing..

And I tell myself I know what I am doing after 30 years of playing with his stuff

My guess on caster was somewhat close I thought it had something to do with shock angle, I did not replace ball joints as mine checked out visibly perfect with no tears in boots or anything. I took it to a frame place and the dude was a d-head about it saying he could entertain fixing it but no guarentee. But then again he didn’t agree to thinking fixing a rust bubble was a good idea since I had a dent in the bed… the dent won’t make my bed rot away asshat..

Yeah, the frame guy I took it to was a grumpy old guy too, tried to walk me out the door scaring me with the price and everything, he asked for the engine, trans, exhaust and cab off, just a rolling frame and he would do it. I liked the truck so there was no turning back, locating a "good" used frame proved to be not cost effective with transportation from out of state.
In your situation, a used frame may be a better choice and easier to source, just swapping everything, if you hustle and have a piece of equipment to pick the cab and bed up, it's 40-50 hours of work.
With the rust bubble, typically once you get into the rust, it's a lot more that what is just popping out, he was going to have to paint the whole panel anyways, body guys don't like to paint over old dents. It makes the rest of their work look bad

 

[AuroraGirl]

And I tell myself I know what I am doing after 30 years of playing with his stuff

Yeah, the frame guy I took it to was a grumpy old guy too, tried to walk me out the door scaring me with the price and everything, he asked for the engine, trans, exhaust and cab off, just a rolling frame and he would do it. I liked the truck so there was no turning back, locating a "good" used frame proved to be not cost effective with transportation from out of state.
In your situation, a used frame may be a better choice and easier to source, just swapping everything, if you hustle and have a piece of equipment to pick the cab and bed up, it's 40-50 hours of work.
With the rust bubble, typically once you get into the rust, it's a lot more that what is just popping out, he was going to have to paint the whole panel anyways, body guys don't like to paint over old dents. It makes the rest of their work look bad

I mean he always has the live with it option, but to know if its the frame, axle, springs, etc whats going on thats not adding up would help. but thats also not the quickest or easiest to determine at the moment. But his alignment guy still hosed him because there shouldnt be a reason they are handing the keys back and theres no talk about anything

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I did come across an 80 k20 frame, would everything bolt over? I thought about buying it to build after the k10 sold but k10 keeps giving me problems.. lol. Idk what necessarily changes over the years on these trucks. Some stuff is 73-87 some is 73-80 some is 81-87 not including the 88-91 stuff. I’d love to get a perfect frame and do a ground up build on the truck, I’ve had the bed off once so I have the means of doing it. And regarding the tie rod end taper fitting in the knuckle, it was tight and it pulled in as I tightened it. So there wasn’t any wiggle room there.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I did come across an 80 k20 frame, would everything bolt over? I thought about buying it to build after the k10 sold but k10 keeps giving me problems.. lol. Idk what necessarily changes over the years on these trucks. Some stuff is 73-87 some is 73-80 some is 81-87 not including the 88-91 stuff. I’d love to get a perfect frame and do a ground up build on the truck, I’ve had the bed off once so I have the means of doing it. And regarding the tie rod end taper fitting in the knuckle, it was tight and it pulled in as I tightened it. So there wasn’t any wiggle room there.

your truck should be able to fit right on it minus bumpers(need the right brackets I believe) and maybe cab mount location but nothing one couldnt make work. I could be missing something but if yo uwanted to swap frames then you can for sure but I know you mentioned you need one of these trucks working I think? If you pickup a frame maybe its worth taking time to clean it up, prime it, put some POR possibly, do everything "right" esp while there is no body on it, so you can have a finished project which needs very little done to it

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I planned on whenever I was stable enough in life redoing the whole truck but if I come across a cheap enough frame/truck or whatever I might be doing it sooner than expected. I do plan on doing it right and hopefully not have to worry about it for a long time. What year(s) frame would be easiest for swap? The swap isn’t going to be near as easy as I’m hoping since all the wiring in the cab for tbi and stuff and if I swapped frame I’d definitely swap to a better engine lol

 

[AuroraGirl]

I planned on whenever I was stable enough in life redoing the whole truck but if I come across a cheap enough frame/truck or whatever I might be doing it sooner than expected. I do plan on doing it right and hopefully not have to worry about it for a long time. What year(s) frame would be easiest for swap? The swap isn’t going to be near as easy as I’m hoping since all the wiring in the cab for tbi and stuff and if I swapped frame I’d definitely swap to a better engine lol

81-87

73-80 can be done. To my understanding other than physically heavier(older frames) you dont run into many issues , certainly ones you can handle.

However, if you wanted to bump up your trucks stiff ness

1980-1987 C6P frames are more sturdy.
But if its a rolling frame youd probably need a caliper or micrometer to tell unless you look at the shock diameter, brake size, ad listing, SPID if the PO has it, etc.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’d want to stay with a 3/4 ton frame. I thought about a k10 frame and putting 8 lug axles under it but it would just be easier to start with a 3/4. Ton. But since I can’t do any of that yet, could a grooved rotor be part of it? It shook before I did the wheel bearings and that’s when dad noticed the groove so he thinks it’s the rotors. I think it’s something more. It shakes when you let off throttle and gets more aggressive as you hit brakes, but stops by 30ish mph. Could one of my wheels be way out of balance?

 

[AuroraGirl]

I’d want to stay with a 3/4 ton frame. I thought about a k10 frame and putting 8 lug axles under it but it would just be easier to start with a 3/4. Ton. But since I can’t do any of that yet, could a grooved rotor be part of it? It shook before I did the wheel bearings and that’s when dad noticed the groove so he thinks it’s the rotors. I think it’s something more. It shakes when you let off throttle and gets more aggressive as you hit brakes, but stops by 30ish mph. Could one of my wheels be way out of balance?

If your brakes are dragging yes. Are your brake hoses twisted? A twisted brake hose can be applying the brake caliper when turning or just statically.

And did you lube the pads and properly adjust /set things. your wheel bearing torque is good?

also, C6p IS a k20/k25 frame, its just a lot more like a crew cab frame and has larger brakes than standard k20 would.

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[AuroraGirl]

I’d want to stay with a 3/4 ton frame. I thought about a k10 frame and putting 8 lug axles under it but it would just be easier to start with a 3/4. Ton. But since I can’t do any of that yet, could a grooved rotor be part of it? It shook before I did the wheel bearings and that’s when dad noticed the groove so he thinks it’s the rotors. I think it’s something more. It shakes when you let off throttle and gets more aggressive as you hit brakes, but stops by 30ish mph. Could one of my wheels be way out of balance?

also shakes as off throttle sounds to me like an engine running possible issue or a driveshaft imbalance but Im not 100% on that just the speed related and when coasting vs when accelerating.

 

[Keith Seymore]

If your brakes are dragging yes. Are your brake hoses twisted? A twisted brake hose can be applying the brake caliper when turning or just statically.

And did you lube the pads and properly adjust /set things. your wheel bearing torque is good?

also, C6p IS a k20/k25 frame, its just a lot more like a crew cab frame and has larger brakes than standard k20 would.

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Lol!

I was the "brake pull" guru. I used to travel to dealerships to fix trucks they couldn't fix.

The 1/2 leaf shown above was my invention (an old MOPAR trick).

K

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I didn’t replace pads or calipers or anything so I just slid them back on the rotor, yes axle nuts torqued 50ft lb back off quarter turn then 35 and outer nut torqued to 120.
Edit: the truck doesn’t pull either direction when braking. It has a slight pull to the right when going “straight” and has a vibration when decelerating that increases when braking. It’s only a certain range of speeds

 

[AuroraGirl]

Lol!

I was the "brake pull" guru. I used to travel to dealerships to fix trucks they couldn't fix.

The 1/2 leaf shown above was my invention (an old MOPAR trick).

K

Thanks Keith <3

 

[AuroraGirl]

I didn’t replace pads or calipers or anything so I just slid them back on the rotor, yes axle nuts torqued 50ft lb back off quarter turn then 35 and outer nut torqued to 120.

You may have binding/things not cooperating. I dont recall, its been a while, but there are spots to lubricate iirc.. these dont use brakes like newer gm I know that, so I cant rememeber that for sure. But I would check your brake hoses and see if you got some twirls in your hose