Front and Rear Axle Install

[Jarrett Melvin]

Hey everybody, the new springs for 3/4 chassis finally showed up so I'm gunna be getting ready to install and get some axles innit finally and get it rolling anyway.

I have a 14 bolt rear end there and another 10 bolt front end.

What would be some things to look into with axles? I was gunna take the covers off and check the oil,(if there is any) for filings and see the ratio.

Just looking for anything I should be aware of or look out for or look into while I'm in the process.

Thanks

 

[Rusty Nail]

Post pix yo.

 

[Vbb199]

Rusted carrier bearings and excessive pinion slop

 

[Jarrett Melvin]

Right on, thanks for that. I'll try and post some pics when I get home. Currently on the water until the 31st.

 

[77 K20]

Make sure both axles have the same gearing.

 

[TubeTruck]

Check wheel bearings, ball joints, u-joints, brakes, steering linkage, and as said, same gear ratio, water in pumpkin which will rust out the bearings fast. I'm installing mine soon also and to save myself the hassle I rebuild both front and rear. That way I don't have to deal with it for a long time.

I've also heard the 14 bolt pinion is about 2" closer to the t-case than the 10/12 bolt so you'll most likely have to shorten your driveshaft. The 1/2t and 3/4t rear u-joints are different so you'll either need a combo joint or, if you're shortening your driveshaft, just get the correct yoke welded in to match your pinion. The front u-joint should be the same.

But I reread that's it's a 3/4t chassis so you may not have these issues lol

 

[Curt]

A ton of people overlook the vent line off the pumpkin.Make sure it’s clear and flows.Also,the check valve or some kind of filter at the end of the hose.

I’ve seen 14 bolts off vans and older trucks with the check valve installed right on the axle instead of hose used to route it up high and out of danger from water.

If the vent is plugged it will create pressure that comes off the expansion of heated oil and can cause leaky seals and higher temps.

Lastly,I’ve tapped several axle housings and used a nipple because the pressed in fitting is worn and loose.

 

[Jarrett Melvin]

Thanks for all the info guys. I did notice on my 83 3/4 ton donor truck that the vent from the diff was routed up and clipped to the bottom of the bed. It was something that stood out to me that made a sense. So i was sure to remember to do that aswell.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Thanks for all the info guys. I did notice on my 83 3/4 ton donor truck that the vent from the diff was routed up and clipped to the bottom of the bed. It was something that stood out to me that made a sense. So i was sure to remember to do that aswell.

i suggest using a nice quality hose or making sure its not too tight, a lot break from up and down bending and rot

 

[Jarrett Melvin]

So I pulled the cover off the front diff I had and this is what I found. It was completely dry of oil, and some rust. It seems to be only surface rust. Is it any cause for concern or could I just give it all a good cleaning and new oil you think?

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[Jarrett Melvin]

The u-joints and ball joints also seem very good, it steers freely and the hubs spin freely once I got the old pads and calipers off. I plan on changing wheel bearings and I have a new steering arm and I need a new steering shock. There is a couple chips out of the ring gear though all the same. But I don't really intend to use 4wd, I just don't like the look of a lifted truck with big tires as a 2wd. Here is a pic of my progress so far, springs are in, next is the axles so I can finally roll it out so I can pull in the donor truck and pull the 350

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[Curt]

I went thru this same exact thing,but unfortunately,both front and rear axles had ring gears that had pitting.There’s probably a lot of people who would of went with it.Not me.I just did a full overhaul and replaced all bearings and seals,brakes,ect....

Budget and time was biggest factors.And the heavy lifting...There’s a bunch of info online that helped get me thru the rebuild process.

Ive seen axles stored properly that could be swapped right in.Most of the time,this is not the case.People leave the pinion facing down,eventually most of the oil escapes thru the seal.After that,just a matter of time,condensation,then rust.

Honestly,it’s your project.You decide where from here.Rust is a bad sign,unknown miles and abuse.

 

[Curt]

Bitter sweet

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[Jarrett Melvin]

Right now, both hubs spin freely and are pretty sound. Right now that's all I'm really looking for, so perhaps they will be a temporary fit for the time being until I track down something better. I have another on there that I'm gunna haul the cover off and check

 

[Blue Ox]

So I pulled the cover off the front diff I had and this is what I found. It was completely dry of oil, and some rust. It seems to be only surface rust. Is it any cause for concern or could I just give it all a good cleaning and new oil you think?

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First, take it apart and do the cleaning.

Then post some good, detailed pics here. Then we'll tell you what we think.