Frame repair at steering box

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mrghostwalker

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I've been told the cracks often form in trucks with oversized tires. I've had that problem in Fords and Chevys.
 

CalSgt

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I am curious about the logic of partial welds instead of completely welding it in place. What is the advantage of not at least welding the top edge to keep water from causing rust between the new repair, seems like self sabotage.
I cant say for certain but on the ranch almost no repairs on equipment were welded the entire distance. I was also told as a kid to never lay a weld perpendicular to the frame because it would crack right next to the weld under stress.
 

CalSgt

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This is something you need to take care of right now, while it's easy to do these repairs to the frame. Also inspect the rear frame, the shock mount points is a common place to be cracked and bent.

It's quite alarming when you gently steer in one direction, but your truck suddenly would rather go the other. It was like walking a big dog, that REALLY wanted to to check out that telephone pole over there.....
The repair kit showed up the other night, I may fabricate my own brace based off of the ORD design. Thanks for the advice on the other spots too, I'll inspect them as I break the chassis down for sand blasting this weekend and again before paint.
 

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It's also advisable to drill out the rivets in the crossmember that loosen over time and replace with Grade 8 hardware, as well as ensure that bumper and associated brackets are kept tight.

With the 2wd trucks, cracking is still very common. Ridetech makes a brace that triangulates the entire area and ties into the front steering box bolts. The ORD, autopower, etc ties to the rear bolts.
The cross member above the front axle? Ill inspect them this weekend. Bumpers are off already pending being re-chromed or replaced, the brackets were tight when disassembled.
 

WP29P4A

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I cant say for certain but on the ranch almost no repairs on equipment were welded the entire distance. I was also told as a kid to never lay a weld perpendicular to the frame because it would crack right next to the weld under stress.
I was thinking one of the reasons might be not over heating the metal by doing smaller areas? That was something I was told when I was practicing welding, not sure if it is fact or opinion.
 

hoagster

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I am curious about the logic of partial welds instead of completely welding it in place. What is the advantage of not at least welding the top edge to keep water from causing rust between the new repair, seems like self sabotage.
That was the guidance provided from the manufacturer. And I tend to read the instructions, I didn't engineer them!
 

WP29P4A

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That was the guidance provided from the manufacturer. And I tend to read the instructions, I didn't engineer them!
I'm impressed that you found a company that provides instructions, that's rare these days. I think I see the logic, if you were attaching it with bolts you wouldn't put them almost touching each other, around the whole perimeter. Looks like a great way to stabalize a weak point. BTW, the paint after repair looks awesome.
 

hoagster

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I'm impressed that you found a company that provides instructions, that's rare these days. I think I see the logic, if you were attaching it with bolts you wouldn't put them almost touching each other, around the whole perimeter. Looks like a great way to stabalize a weak point. BTW, the paint after repair looks awesome.
Powder coated the whole frame, So If they did it right not to worried about rust for awhile, :cool:
 

CalSgt

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Thanks for the advice, installed the patch kit today & welded & patched the rear shock mounts. All the rivets felt tight so I left them alone.
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