Flywheel and Pressure plate bolts

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Maknwine

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Is it acceptable to reuse the Flywheel and pressure plate bolts? Just resurfaced the flywheel for the new BluePrint 5.7 and ready to put on the new Luk clutch disk and pressure plate.

thanks
Tom
 

PrairieDrifter

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Is it acceptable to reuse the Flywheel and pressure plate bolts? Just resurfaced the flywheel for the new BluePrint 5.7 and ready to put on the new Luk clutch disk and pressure plate.

thanks
Tom
Good to go. Loctite.
 

Maknwine

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It would have been great if when I removed the engine I had gone ahead and removed the bell housing and clutch fork to inspect for wear or broken parts. So lesson learnt.

Broken clutch fork retainer spring, worn pivot ball, and release bearing looks to have the signs that the spring was on the wrong side of bearing or possibly got ****-eyed when the ear on the spring broke. IDK, I'm no mechanic but my dad thought the clutch felt funny to him years ago when the truck was on the road the few miles I was able to use it.

Hopefully, someone is helped by this to order all the parts at once and save some time anyway. Good catch dad!
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Maknwine

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Heres another shot of the release bearing wear marks.
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Maknwine

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Does it matter if the old engine removed had a (needle) pilot bearing vs the Luk clutch assembly I bought has a pilot bushing? Its a manual transmission.

EDIT: After actually opening the plastic the pilot was in to see it better it is a pilot bearing and not a bushing. I guess I'll use the bearing as it was free with purchase.
 
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Daron58

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I personally prefer the bronze bushings over the needle bearing hands down, and if the motor is out go ahead and replace the shift fork, dust boot and the throw out bearing for no more than it costs, you will know that it’s right going back with new clutch and motor just my 2 cents
 

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I just like the needle bearing pilot. I haven't had any issues.
 

Maknwine

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Thanks all, I've got a new pivot ball and clutch forkin the shopping cart. The boot was MIA so one's in there as well. Alot of reading suggest the bushing is preferred.

My only thoughts is this truck isn't going to be a daily driver by no means. Pulling a 7K lb tractor around some but nothing commercial type daily use so maybe the bearing wont matter too much. Now that I've said that....murphy's law in effect.
 

Maknwine

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Here's the old pilot bearing. Running yr finger over the edge you can feel it got kocked up somehow as it has a sharp edge sticking up. I almost believe the oring seal is on the wrong side of the recess. As I understand it, the seal should be facing the trans side to keep grease in and trash out.


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RustyPile

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I'd be more concerned about all that rust on the crankshaft flange which pilot bearing is best.,, It has to be dead square with the main bearing bore or the flywheel will wobble.. You may be looking at removing the crankshaft and having that flange re-machined, flywheel too...
 

squaredeal91

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Here's the old pilot bearing. Running yr finger over the edge you can feel it got kocked up somehow as it has a sharp edge sticking up. I almost believe the oring seal is on the wrong side of the recess. As I understand it, the seal should be facing the trans side to keep grease in and trash out.


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Wire wheel it and see what you have, should be okay
 

Maknwine

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Wire wheel it and see what you have, should be okay
Oh that is in the old block, so I wont be doing anything further with that motor. I'm the super slow guy with a brand new BP engine. I probably should have used that thread for this but I'm embarrassed to admit its taking me this long to get the motor in/done. I was hoping my next post in that thread was the install.

 

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