First time "real" painting.

[CountKrunk]

looks sick @Nardulli !

my plan is to blast it to bare metal, as there are so many layers of **** on it. fix the metal as best i can.

Then watcha plethora of youtube videos and go from there haha.

I know martin bros customs goes back to bare metal, applies a skim coat. Gets that smooth af then they do the paint process. Of course those guys are master painters lol, don't know what the paint process is but it takes them a while. So im assume it has a lot of steps.

i want to do a two tone blue.

 

[hey mister]

Well...that was special.
Hood is done and my brain is still doing 100mph.
Shooting the color was completely different than the clear. Clear was like shooting water.
With the color, my passes were spaced too wide and I moved too fast. With the clear, I moved way too slow.
Ended up with a little orange peel here and there and decent sized run of clear.
But it's all good. This was all about gaining experience. (And this is way better than anythin on the taco now) Like a lot of things in life, ya just gotta step out and do it.
I do have alot to learn with getting the gun adjusted right and patients. I always struggle with patients. The biggest thrill was knowing I did it. Not perfect, but certainly not fubar.
I know the next step is cut & buff, but that's expensive too. So, the big 10's roof and cap will probably get that treatment when the time comes. The taco's fenders and the big10's rocker repair will just be as shot.
I bet paint for that big wedge cap is gonna run 5 bills.

I just have to ask...what is with all the freaking little tiny "no-see-ems" being attracted to wet paint? Dag-gummit anyway!! Good argument for a paint booth.

I probably won't do the fenders until spring. I got lots to do before winter.

 

[Catbox]

Good work dude!

 

[Grit dog]

Ya nice job! If you ain’t gettin the runs here or there you’re not spraying a wet enough coat. That looks great out of the gun in the one pic.

 

[Grit dog]

@Doppleganger, don’t obsess about the exact grit for prep. Or actually if you want to out your brain at ease, hit a spot each with different grits, skim bondo over it and see if it doesn’t stick.
Even though it all feels smooth, lower grit has more bite or surface area. On a microscopic scale, 1000grit looks like Kansas and 100grit looks like the foothills of the Rockies.
Any paint, IMO, finer grit does not make it bond less. And to that point, I’m sure I’ve bondoed over 400 or 600 but I usually don’t.
Scuff all the epoxy with 220-320 when the time comes. If you’re worried about the bondo areas just scratch em quick with some 60-100. But it’ll stick either way.

 

[fast 99]

I just sprayed my cab with epoxy primer yesterday - first time I pulled a spray gun trigger in 30 yrs. I thought it came out fine.

Today was told that I cannot paint over "cured" epoxy. ?! Never heard that before.

True,
can only speak about PPG DP epoxy has a 7 day recoat. After that scuff and another coat of DP. If I needed the time, sprayed a surfacer over the DP otherwise color or sealer within 7 days. Surfacer does not have a recoat limit. A good thing about DP is mud can be spread directly over it.

 

[hey mister]

Update:
I used a reducer in the clear after having been instructed not to. (and he wonders why he gets a run) I had not realized I reduced until long after dark. After talking to a couple collision guys, they said they always use reducer in the clear. NBD.
I'm going to change my "spit happens" remark to "runs happen". (dual meaning)

So, after 24 hours, I flipped the hood over and cleaned the under side and then rattle canned a Rustolum truck bed liner on.
Dang! I should of just done that to the top and saved myself a few hundo.
Yea, education ain't cheep.