Finally got a running 65 C10

[idahovette]

I have a 66 Chevy II with a .030 327 and it is an older block(65). I had the old tube that bolted into the rear of the block and used that to plug the hole with a cap on the tube that had the hose to the pcv......no leaks......yet.......6+ years

 

[DoubleDingo]

Figured out the trans needle bearings, and got it all back together. I hope it works right.

My freeze plug for that hole in the back of the block by the distributor is too small so I’ll have to special order another size or three.

Paid $140 to rent a 54 piece installer remover set and it doesn’t have an adapter near the size for my crank. Going to take it back and go to Harbor freight. New dampener is in though and ready to install

Did get the little timing tab in the mail.

Slow going over here

I bought that dampener remover/installer kit. I am shocked there isn't something in there that would work on the crank of your engine. You'd think a comprehensive kit like would cover everything. I guess GM used an oddball size dampener bolt back then. Simple things like that, that trip up a project, drive me nuts.

Glad you got the transmission figured out and back together. Just put in 90w mineral oil from Napa. Can get it by the gallon. May be able find it at a tractor store too.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[DoubleDingo]

Wasn’t on the engine.

I was able to find the part number that supposedly fits, 555-024

@Frankenchevy has a 327 with a freeze plug in that hole.

 

[1low4x4]

Got the freeze plug installed.

Stopped at horrible freight and bought a $40 pulley remover/installer. It doesn’t work on my crank either. I’m not really sure what to do now other than beat it on with a hammer which I would like to avoid

 

[legopnuematic]

Does the crank actually have threads in it? I know the earlier SBC's just have a center drill center but no threads.

 

[Ricko1966]

Got the freeze plug installed.

Stopped at horrible freight and bought a $40 pulley remover/installer. It doesn’t work on my crank either. I’m not really sure what to do now other than beat it on with a hammer which I would like to avoid

Is your crank tapped to pull on the balancer? Early small blocks weren't. If not you will need to drill and tap the crank.If someone else drilled and tapped it you will need to figure out what size they drilled and tapped it. Another method is heat the balancer in the oven 200/250* do not use a torch no matter how tempting. Use a 2x4 and a hammer to drive on the balancer. Oil the end of the crank and the 8nside of the balancer. A word of caution the crankshaft floats back and forth its called end play. The only thing stopping the crank is the threat bearing,so don't go Neanderthal and beat the thrust bearing out. If you can rest the other end of the crank against something solid and a piecebof harder wood I would. Another word of caution heat will expand the I.D. of the balancer,too much heat will melt your crank seal going in,so don't get crazy with the heat. This really asking a lot but if it's cold at night where you are at,I'd leave the garage windows open and install my balancer first thing in the morning. The cold will shrink the crank snout.

 

[1low4x4]

This crank has 7/16-20 thnreads I just checked and ran a tap through it to clean it out with some WD40 so now I just ghave to find a installer tool with that tap

 

[1low4x4]

Now that I look at the 54 piece picture I posted it says it has a 7/16 tap but I swear none of them came close to fitting. But that kit was shot anyway, everything was bent. Got it from advance. Headed to Oreillys now to get theirs

 

[Ricko1966]

Proform 66515 Summt
It? Jegs? Speedway?

 

[1low4x4]

Installed

“The file is too large to be uploaded”

I am so sick of having to crop my photos for this site

 

[1low4x4]

Here

 

[DoubleDingo]

Installed

“The file is too large to be uploaded”

I am so sick of having to crop my photos for this site

I never have that problem and my phone settings are to take hi-rez photos.

 

[1low4x4]

So I’m having trouble compressing my springs enough to get the little retainers in. I guess I should have done this before I put the heads on the engine. Even with the piston at the very top of the cylinder, I still have a quarter inch or maybe a little more of travel in the valvestem up and down. I need to be able to hold the valve closed, but I don’t own an air compressor anymore (I know). I could go get a pancake compressor, but I don’t know what to buy to screw in to the spark plug hole to put air in.

Maybe the rope trick? I saw some guy stick like 4 feet of nylon rope into the cylinder and maybe that would help hold the valves shut?

 

[legopnuematic]

I used rope when I did valve springs on my slant six and worked fine, stuff it in and rotate crank slowly until it holds the valves up

I used some cheap synthetic rope maybe 1/2" diameter.

 

[Ricko1966]

Or an old plug wire. Remember for break in you want light springs.