Engine wiring/vacuum connections!

[jgasca]

I would not be grounding that choke wire. It is a hot wire and will blow the fuse, as you see. There needs to be resistance, as in the choke coil, so it will not blow the fuse. You can also wire in a resistor to keep that from happening if you choose going directly to a ground.

What if I was to remove the choke fuse and connect a straight piece of wire or metal?

If I go with a manual choke, will the choke light always be on because I'm missing the electric choke?

I think if I ever want an electric choke, i'll probably have to get another carb. I've streamed through the web a lot and haven't found anything about adding an electric choke to this carb.

 

[crazy4offroad]

What if I was to remove the choke fuse and connect a straight piece of wire or metal?

DO NOT DO THIS!!!! Unless you want your truck to burn to the ground.

 

[jgasca]

DO NOT DO THIS!!!! Unless you want your truck to burn to the ground.

I figured this but I wasn't sure being that it should meet a ground eventually on an electric choke

 

[89Suburban]

DO NOT DO THIS!!!! Unless you want your truck to burn to the ground.

Lol, thank god you posted!

 

[89Suburban]

Ok Jose, this is my opinion. That is a very old school carb. Looks like a 2 barrel to me. I don't see any kind of electric choke on it. I have no idea what that diaphragm setup is there. And as you can see, that is very old tech in a newer truck. So from here, let's start over.

First off, I think we go along the lines that this carb setup does not match the vehicle and wiring. Are you absolutely sure this is all stock here? If you want to continue to run with this carb, I would just eliminate the choke wire. You can always put a new one in the future if you decide to go with an electric choke . I believe that carb there is designed to run off a non electric thermostatic, stove type choke control, which is clearly missing according to those pics, and as pointed out earlier.

And most of that type of tech is from the 70's. That makes me believe this is not the motor and carb original from this truck. So you have to decide from here to run with the current setup, or try to gather and instal that model year controls, carb, manifold etc.

If you stick with that carb I would run a manual choke control. And as far as the oil light, wire up that do it is hot going to the bulb in the dash, then running to the pressure switch, THEN to a motor ground. Or install a resistor in that current choke wire and run to a ground.

 

[jgasca]

And as far as the oil light, wire up that do it is hot going to the bulb in the dash, then running to the pressure switch, THEN to a motor ground. Or install a resistor in that current choke wire and run to a ground.

I didn't get this part. Also what size of resistor do you think i'll need?

Yeah so these are my options;

I can either do as you mentioned, run with this setup by adding add a manual choke. My problem with this is the choke light thats on because its missing the electric choke.

Another option which I'm kinda leaning towards is going with the old intake manifold and adding the 4bbl carb (which the 305 had on)

The part I didn't understand and what I'm wondering about is eliminating the choke light (light and buzz). I did a bit more research and found out this carb is a Rochester 2g which does not come with an electric choke, only a manual choke. It has a vacuum governor on the passenger side which improves the gas consumption of the carb under heavy loads and at a certain RPM range.

I can always buy another 2bbl carb but like I said, I think I'm either gonna find a way to bypass the choke light or go back to 4bbl.

 

[chengny]

Another option which I'm kinda leaning towards is going with the old intake manifold and adding the 4bbl carb (which the 305 had on)

JOSE - after all this, are you telling us that you have on hand, a 4 port intake manifold - and a 4 bbl Rochester Q-jet to mount on it?

Yank the 2 port intake/2 bbl setup, install the 4 port manifold (and the 4 bbl carb).

If the 4 bbl has an electric choke, plug the wire in and go. If it does not have electric assist, pull the choke fuse out.

You'll lose that idiot light but the pressure gauge on the dash will still function - you'll just need to keep a close watch on the gauge.

 

[jgasca]

Another option which I'm kinda leaning towards is going with the old intake manifold and adding the 4bbl carb (which the 305 had on)

JOSE - after all this, are you telling us that you have on hand, a 4 port intake manifold - and a 4 bbl Rochester Q-jet to mount on it?

Yank the 2 port intake/2 bbl setup, install the 4 port manifold (and the 4 bbl carb).

If the 4 bbl has an electric choke, plug the wire in and go. If it does not have electric assist, pull the choke fuse out.

You'll lose that idiot light but the pressure gauge on the dash will still function - you'll just need to keep a close watch on the gauge.

Yes I thought I mentioned it before that the 305 had a 4bbl. I wanted to keep the 2bbl for mpg (if I got the setup to work) Looks like this weekend I'll be swapping out the intake and putting the 4bbl and the stock distributor.

Any advice when doing all this? I heard the timing could and probably will be a problem......

 

[chengny]

Buy an intake manifold gasket set.

Remove the intake manifold bolts (12) and pry the manifold off. Clean the faces of the manifold and the cylinder heads. Use a 3/8" -16 tap and chase the bolt holes in the head. Blow the holes out with compressed air or carb cleaner.

In addition to the intake manifold/cylinder head gaskets, the set will come with 2 types of manifold to block gaskets. These are black rubber and seal the ends.

One kind has little teats and is for use with blocks that have locating holes, and the other type has no teats and is for blocks that are not drilled.

Select the appropriate end gaskets and tack them in place with blue silicone. Let them dry.

Squirt a little silicone out on to your finger and apply around the edges of each of the 4 water passages. These are at the very front and back of the heads - the heads are almost always pitted in that area. Also place a dab on the ends of the previously installed rubber end gaskets.

The main gaskets have tabs that match up to notches in the aforementioned end gaskets. Set the main gaskets down and press into the silicone.

Let the silicone on the main gaskets dry for an hour or so - it will help keep it in place when setting the manifold down.

Carefully lower the manifold into place (a stock manifold is heavy!)- checking that the gaskets stayed in position.

There are two bolts that are shorter than the others - they must go in the correct holes. That is the 4th one back on the LH side and the 3rd one back on the RH side. If any of the longer bolts go in those holes, the end of the bolt will impact the adjacent push rod .


Look at the relationship of the bolt holes to the push rods while the intake manifold is off - you'll see what I mean.

Put a light coat of silicone on each manifold bolt and bring up finger tight.



Torque the manifold down (to 35 ft-lbs) in 3 steps, using the pattern below:

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[jgasca]

Buy an intake manifold gasket set.

Remove the intake manifold bolts (12) and pry the manifold off. Clean the faces of the manifold and the cylinder heads. Use a 3/8" -16 tap and chase the bolt holes in the head. Blow the holes out with compressed air or carb cleaner.

In addition to the intake manifold/cylinder head gaskets, the set will come with 2 types of manifold to block gaskets. These are black rubber and seal the ends.

One kind has little teats and is for use with blocks that have locating holes, and the other type has no teats and is for blocks that are not drilled.

Select the appropriate end gaskets and tack them in place with blue silicone. Let them dry.

Squirt a little silicone out on to your finger and apply around the edges of each of the 4 water passages. These are at the very front and back of the heads - the heads are almost always pitted in that area. Also place a dab on the ends of the previously installed rubber end gaskets.

The main gaskets have tabs that match up to notches in the aforementioned end gaskets. Set the main gaskets down and press into the silicone.

Let the silicone on the main gaskets dry for an hour or so - it will help keep it in place when setting the manifold down.

Carefully lower the manifold into place (a stock manifold is heavy!)- checking that the gaskets stayed in position.

There are two bolts that are shorter than the others - they must go in the correct holes. That is the 4th one back on the LH side and the 3rd one back on the RH side. If any of the longer bolts go in those holes, the end of the bolt will impact the adjacent push rod .


Look at the relationship of the bolt holes to the push rods while the intake manifold is off - you'll see what I mean.

Put a light coat of silicone on each manifold bolt and bring up finger tight.



Torque the manifold down (to 35 ft-lbs) in 3 steps, using the pattern below:

You must be registered for see images attach

I was looking to get these gaskets
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...4WD/_/N-ijqkzZ93xym?itemIdentifier=69932_0_0_

I'm not sure if this is the proper one

Again this may be simple but when bolting down the manifold, you say in 3-steps....Do you mean bolting down 1-4 then 5-8 then 9-12?

 

[89Suburban]

Yes I thought I mentioned it before that the 305 had a 4bbl. I wanted to keep the 2bbl for mpg (if I got the setup to work) Looks like this weekend I'll be swapping out the intake and putting the 4bbl and the stock distributor.

Any advice when doing all this? I heard the timing could and probably will be a problem......

Yes, put the original stuff back on. You ain't saving much in mileage running a 2 barrel. With the original factory 4 barrel and computer and controls setup right and a light foot it will probably save you fuel with the smaller primaries.

Here is a gasket replacement thread with plenty of pics if you want to check things out before you tear yours apart. Keep in mind it is a newer TBI motor. And I chose not to use the rubber front and rear seals on the intake manifold and just went with a thick bead of RTV black.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=602&highlight=intake

 

[jgasca]

Yes, put the original stuff back on. You ain't saving much in mileage running a 2 barrel. With the original factory 4 barrel and computer and controls setup right and a light foot it will probably save you fuel with the smaller primaries.

Here is a gasket replacement thread with plenty of pics if you want to check things out before you tear yours apart. Keep in mind it is a newer TBI motor. And I chose not to use the rubber front and rear seals on the intake manifold and just went with a thick bead of RTV black.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=602&highlight=intake

Would it be wise to use

http://www.permatex.com/products/au...ermatex_High-Temp_Red_RTV_Silicone_Gasket.htm

I have a tube of this, just want to make sure

 

[89Suburban]

Would it be wise to use

http://www.permatex.com/products/au...ermatex_High-Temp_Red_RTV_Silicone_Gasket.htm

I have a tube of this, just want to make sure

Yah, if you already have that laying around, it should be fine.

 

[jgasca]

Anyone know why I can't find a knock sensor in autozone or any local auto parts store for my truck?

 

[89Suburban]

Anyone know why I can't find a knock sensor in autozone or any local auto parts store for my truck?

Seems to be a special order item from my store also. Better off just shopping online and ordering one. 50 friggin bucks, they damn expensive.

****, I would take my chances hitting a junkyard for a used one. Anybody know how to test these?