Engine wiring/vacuum connections!

[chengny]

Schematic for PW & PL. Note lead 150B to the bus bar ground block:

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[HotRodPC]

Thanks for those. I think you or someone else, loaded up Crew Cab PW & L schematic for Clancey in his Crew Cab thread. I'm sure with these schematics and that info in that thread, I'll have those windows working when I get the door harnesses from a donor.

 

[jgasca]

One thing jumps right out - nothing is connected to the main grounding block. There should be at least 3 black wires clipped on to the indicated stabs.

Look around for black wires with ends like the one in the square (that one is not one of them - it's just an example of factory wire terminations).

The entire cluster is (normally) grounded directly to that block and none of the gauges will function unless the ground wire is connected. I'm surprised your coolant temp gauge is working. These gauges require two paths to ground - one variable through the associated sender and one unrestricted back to the battery negative. If it's working, don't trust it - it's probably not accurate:

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Gauge failures are often caused by defective wiring or grounds. The first step in locating trouble should be a thorough inspection of all wiring, terminals and printed circuits. If wiring is secured by clamps, check to see whether the insulation has been severed, thereby grounding the wire. In the case of a fuel gauge installation, rust may cause failure by corrosion at the ground connection of the tank unit.

VARIABLE VOLTAGE TYPE
The variable voltage type dash gauge consists of two magnetic coils to which battery voltage is applied. The coils act on the gauge pointer and pull in opposite directions. One coil is grounded directly to the chassis, while the other coil is grounded through a variable resistor within the sending unit. Resistance through the sending unit determines current flow through its coil, and therefore pointer position.
When resistance is high in the sending unit, less current is allowed to flow through its coil, causing the gauge pointer to move toward the directly grounded coil. When resistance in the sending unit decreases, more current is allowed to pass through its coil, increasing the magnetic field. The gauge pointer is then attracted toward the coil which is grounded through the sending unit.

Temp gauge diagram - typical of all the gauges:

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One thing about that, those ground clips you pointed to are on the e-brake. This truck was missing the e-brake, I grabbed an e-brake from a junkyard just last week.

I found another ground clip right near the e-brake and I only found two black ground wires

#1

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#2 was spliced and ran to the back

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I also found a brown/white wire just hanging there

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Who knows what the previous owners did to this truck but I'm sure some wires are missing.
Let me know what you guys think.

 

[Guardian]

The ground strip to the left of the parking brake pedal is the main grounding buss for the dash area. One wire should run from the strip to the base of the steering column as the one you have pictured, another should run into the harness going to the gauges. The other tabs on the ground would be used if you had power windows, locks and seats.

 

[jgasca]

The ground strip to the left of the parking brake pedal is the main grounding buss for the dash area. One wire should run from the strip to the base of the steering column as the one you have pictured, another should run into the harness going to the gauges. The other tabs on the ground would be used if you had power windows, locks and seats.

The ground wire connected to the steering column is going into the wire harness you say goes to the dash. The ground wire connected to the strip next to the E-Brake goes underneath the floor mat (the layer next to metal) and looks likes its going into the 4wd transfer case

 

[Guardian]

It should go to the gauges.

 

[jgasca]

It should go to the gauges.

Isn't the base of the steering column a ground itself?
Sorry for the confusion

 

[Guardian]

Technically yes it is. The ground is provided by the contact of the screw into the firewall sinse it has a rubber boot behind the flange. The problem occurs if the single ground doesn't have the amp carrying capacity stuff starts to melt, that is why there is a pigtail to the other strip on the inner kick panel. If you look under the hood it should have a primary and secondary ground to the engine also.

 

[jgasca]

Technically yes it is. The ground is provided by the contact of the screw into the firewall sinse it has a rubber boot behind the flange. The problem occurs if the single ground doesn't have the amp carrying capacity stuff starts to melt, that is why there is a pigtail to the other strip on the inner kick panel. If you look under the hood it should have a primary and secondary ground to the engine also.

Got it!
So i took apart the cluster and tested the circuit laying behind the cluster for continuity. So i'm thinking its my gauges that dont work. Any easy way to test each gauge? I take it running a wire straight to the sending units to the gauge?

Also I believe the brown/white wire I was questioning before goes to the e-brake. Correct me if I'm wrong!

 

[jgasca]

I've also been looking for the proper throttle cable bracket, and link which connects the cable to the carb.

This carb looks to be a Rochester, but I'm not sure which parts are proper.

I also found this on the web based on the numbers on the carb

http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=17088079

anyone know?

 

[chengny]

That link didn't show much.
Anyway, here are some images of the standard bracket used on a 350/4BBL Q-jet combo and one view of how the cable attaches to the accelerator linkage:

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I don't know where you'd order the bracket - might be easier just to hit the local junkyard to pick up odds & ends like this. Make a list of all little stuff you need and bring a bucket.

 

[chengny]

i'm thinking its my gauges that dont work.

Gauges never fail (in my experience anyway). Especially all of them.

You are sure (confirmed with a Fluke) that the PC board is grounded via the 3 blacks (BTW - they are not common, each serves a separate section of the printed circuit)?

Also checked with a meter that there is power supplied at the hot feeds (2 pinks)?

It's usually not an issue but check the engine ground strap (goes from the back of the RH cylinder head to the fire wall).

Also, I don't know if anyone mentioned this already, if you pull the wire from a sender (coolant temp is easy) and jumper it to a good ground point the associated gauge should peg high. That will confirm gauge operation and indicate a sender problem.

 

[jgasca]

i'm thinking its my gauges that dont work.

Gauges never fail (in my experience anyway). Especially all of them.

You are sure (confirmed with a Fluke) that the PC board is grounded via the 3 blacks (BTW - they are not common, each serves a separate section of the printed circuit)?

Also checked with a meter that there is power supplied at the hot feeds (2 pinks)?

It's usually not an issue but check the engine ground strap (goes from the back of the RH cylinder head to the fire wall).

Also, I don't know if anyone mentioned this already, if you pull the wire from a sender (coolant temp is easy) and jumper it to a good ground point the associated gauge should peg high. That will confirm gauge operation and indicate a sender problem.

Wow turns out your right. I cleaned and reclamped the circuit behind the cluster and now all my gauges work except my battery gauge (Which was working before I took it apart. The battery gauge barely moves when the truck is started.

I also can't get the two bulbs which are connected to wires to turn on (One bulb on the left is connected to two wires and the bulb on the right is connected to a black wire) Anyone know what these go to?

Also I'm not seeing any power at the two pink wires..... I checked all my fuses also and made sure they were ok

 

[HotRodPC]

Wow turns out your right. I cleaned and reclamped the circuit behind the cluster and now all my gauges work except my battery gauge (Which was working before I took it apart. The battery gauge barely moves when the truck is started.

I also can't get the two bulbs which are connected to wires to turn on (One bulb on the left is connected to two wires and the bulb on the right is connected to a black wire) Anyone know what these go to?

Also I'm not seeing any power at the two pink wires..... I checked all my fuses also and made sure they were ok

If you're right in the center between the Fuel and Speedo, those are likely the Check Engine lights for your ESC. You don't want them to come on.

 

[jgasca]

If you're right in the center between the Fuel and Speedo, those are likely the Check Engine lights for your ESC. You don't want them to come on.

Again correct me if I'm wrong but the the lights inbetween the speedometer and the gas gauge are 4-wheel drive, choke, seat belt, and brake.