engine oil

[kgc4160]

recommend a good oil.. 81 305 with 87k..

 

[Snoots]

Rotella

 

[Goldie Driver]

I read somewhere that 10W30 Castrol has the highest zinc level of regularly available oils.

Hoping the 20W50 followed suit, that is what I have been running (leaking/burning) in Goldie.

I prefer syn oil, but my 1st syn change - and last with Goldie - showed me everywhere the seals where 37 years old.

I'd recommend sticking with dino oil unless you have been running syn previously or have documentation showing the po did.

Depending on where you are, upcoming cold temps may make that Castrol 10W30 a good choice.

 

[jake wells]

Pennzoil 10w30.

 

[shiftpro]

Rotella

Is it the T3? The oil for diesels, it has zinc. The only reason I will walk into Walmart is to buy the 5 gallon buckets of it.

 

[HotRodPC]

I don't even get into all the oil debate these days. With the EPA having oil manufactures by the balls with limitations and requirments, can there really be that much difference? I mean, even Penzoil isn't bad these days. I go for cheap. If it's true or not, I won't swear to it but I've heard Walmart Super Tech brands are made by Valvoline. If I have over 10,000 miles on an engine and I know it's well broke in by now, I got straight to Super Tech Full Synthetic by the gallon. So I cheap out on the oil, but I go big on the oil filter. I run either a Mobil 1 or a K&N oil filter. With synthetic oil and a good filter, I don't even consider changing my oil until at least 10,000 miles. When I pull the dipstick and it's still Gold, pffft, I'm not changing it. I'll go another 4000-5000 before I change it. My engines are clean and they stay clean so I don't sweat it. My oil has been gold even at 15,000 miles. I then gave it to my bro for his oil burner to burn off since he's one of those that would buy it, a quart at a time at a convenience store and pay $4 a quart for conventional Best Value generic oil.

What most don't realize, engine oil DOES NOT wear out. It'll never ever wear out. So then you ask, if that's true, then why do we have to change oil? We don't change oil because it wears out. We change oil because it becomes contaminated and diluted. It can get diluted from condensation in the oil pan. It also gets diluted with gasoline/diesel from blow by. What turns oil black is suit from burnt combustion that gets past the rings. You keep a good filter that can trap the contaminants and condensation your oil will stay clean and function properly. Synthetic oil has slicker and better lubrication properties than conventional oil. Keep the engine slick, keep the wear in your engine down low as possible by using synthetic and keeping it clean, then you can get more miles out of engine. As the engine wears you might change it more often when it appears dirty but even worn, with a good filter and synthetic, I'd never change my oil until 10,000 miles.

Also keep in mind, we've all been told to change your oil every 3,000 miles. That's because that what the oil manufactures and car manufactures tell us. I guess if I manufactured oil I'd want you to buy oil unneccesarily too. Or have to bring your car to me for an oil change more often since my service department is what supports my stealership. Think about that. Go to the UK and see what they recommend for an oil change. Same car in a different part of the world. So why do they get suggested 8,000 miles for oil changes but here in the US it's 3000 miles. Doesn't make much sense does it?

 

[fast68chevy]

rotella does not any longe have the amount of zinc and phosphoruus that flat tappet cami motors need. get VR-1 racing oil or get Lucas classic and hot rod, or Lucas break-in motor oil.. or Brad Penn motor oil.
period.
any motor oils with the API circle certification on their labels are junk useless for flat tappet camshaft motors..
which is most early TBI motors at least '91 and older, especially truck motors,
and all the carb motors.
if you dont want to wipe cam lobes then get VR1 or hot rod or break in oil. its only 40 bucks a 5-quart jug.. thats the best deal youre gonna find for the oil you need to have.
amazon or wherever.

all the API certified motor oil nowadays all has none or VERY reduced levels of zinc(ZDDP) and phosphorus. rotella did have a decent levelll, but that has gone out the window too, as it doesnt even have half the ZDDP and phosphorus levels needed for old school flat tappet motors .. anymore..

flat tappet motors need both of these in high levels. and for a damned good reason. and this also goes for old tractors and mowers and other old and vintage engines.

if you dont care about your motor, mainly the cam lobes and lifters and bearings then run whatever oil you want.. i dont care, its your motor.. good luck!

 

[HotRodPC]

rotella does not any longe have the amount of zinc and phosphoruus that flat tappet cami motors need. get Vr1 racing oil or get luca classiic and hot od or break in oil/.. or brad penn motor oil.
period.
any motor oils with the API circle certification on the label are junk and useless, for flat tappet camshaft motors.. which is most early TBI motors at least '91 and older, especially truck motors, and all the carb motors. if you want to keep from wiping cam lobes then get VR1 or hot rod or break in oil. 40 bucks a jug.. thats the best deal youre gonna find for the oil you need to have. amazon or wherever. API cert oil nowadays all has none or VERY reduced levels of zin(ZDDP) and phosphorus. flat tappet motors need both of these in high levels. and for a damned good reason.

if you dont care about your motor, mainly the cam lobes and lifters and bearings then run whatever oil you want.. i dont care, its your motor.. good luck!

Yep it's True. Rotella no longer has the extra goodies that people used to buy it for. Hasn't had for several years now. If you're looking for Zinc you have the option mentioned above, or buy an additive. My flat tappet engines do just fine with Super Tech synthetic without additives. Normally, once that cam is well broke in you shouldn't have any flat cam lobe problems.

 

[75gmck25]

Mobil 1 15w50 has the phosphorus and zinc levels (1200/1300) needed for a flat tappet cam. It’s available at most parts stores and sometimes at Walmart. It’s not any more expensive than the standard synthetics.

Bruce

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Is it the T3? The oil for diesels, it has zinc. The only reason I will walk into Walmart is to buy the 5 gallon buckets of it.

I thought you went there for the classy clientele and the industrious employees.

 

[shiftpro]

Yep it's True. Rotella no longer has the extra goodies that people used to buy it for. Hasn't had for several years now. If you're looking for Zinc you have the option mentioned above, or buy an additive. My flat tappet engines do just fine with Super Tech synthetic without additives. Normally, once that cam is well broke in you shouldn't have any flat cam lobe problems.

I can't find any proof either way... Regarding T-4, I always thought the CK-4 rating had the zinc.

As you said, after the cam is work hardened, broken in, there's no need for zinc.

 

[jake wells]

I can't find any proof either way... Regarding T-4, I always thought the CK-4 rating had the zinc.

As you said, after the cam is work hardened, broken in, there's no need for zinc.

ck4 has the same amount of zinc as cj4.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

This is what I've been using after the rebuild. So far its been doing well. I really have no idea how it stacks up to the others.

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[AuroraGirl]

pretty sure supertech is quaker state, farm and fleet brand is citgo, etc. Additive packages may differ, tho. Any oil that meets SG or SE im sure technically will work for your truck
i was gonna try using some synthetic blend 0w-30 or 0w-40 for my oil change here soon.. its getting cold.

 

[Shorty81]

Schaeffer Oil.