Edelbrock 1405

[jjewett444]

who has experience with these carbs? I'm having trouble setting my choke and/or fast idle cam with the electric choke kit I bought for it(came with manual choke). I am also curious as to why it will start fine with 1 pump cold, and will fire right up after just shut off, but if still warm it takes about 5 seconds of cranking and throttle pumping to start.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Page 8 here describes choke adjustment...
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/dl/carb-owners-manual.pdf
Hard hot starts is usually timing a little too advanced or carb running lean.

 

[jjewett444]

it starts fine if I shut it off after 5 or 10 minutes, its when it sits for maybe 15-20 minutes or even hour and its not cold its like I need to keep pumping it to start.. timing is not an issue otherwise it would start hard after I shut it off and restart it right away.

 

[gpmorgan]

When it is hot , turn it off and remove breather lid and see if gas is leaking into intake. It will be smoking if it's leaking. Does it ever try to keep running when you turn off the ign?

 

[74 Shortbed]

Check the float level too..

 

[crazy4offroad]

When it is hot , turn it off and remove breather lid and see if gas is leaking into intake. It will be smoking if it's leaking. Does it ever try to keep running when you turn off the ign?

Yes it's possible it is boiling the gas. Also there's a check valve in the fuel pump that may be bad, letting the gas drain back into the tank. Be sure all your rubber fuel lines get converted to neoprene or other ethanol-proof line, and use a good filter like a Wix before the carb.

 

[jjewett444]

d it never diesels or tries to keep running. I will check to see if it leaking. I have the edelbrock gasket that it thick to prevent that I believe lol. fuel pump is relatively new ac delco. and filter is inline that edelbrock sent. which if I remember correctly I have seen the fuel hold in there and not drain back when truck is off..

 

[1985Bubbatruk]

Its heat soak, Eddy's are notorious for it. You can try a 1" phenoulic spacer but if the motor is punched out .040 or more you may still have issues with it. You can also try a fuel cooler as well, check the routing of your fuel lines and try to keep them away from hot surfaces like exhaust manifolds. You have to get the temp on the carb/fuel down to truly 'fix' it, OR Im not a Holley fan but they do handle it allot better and dont have as much of an issue with it.

The real problem is ethanol fuel. The added ethanol causes it to boil at a lower temp then non-ethanol does. You could try that as well, run a tank of non-ethanol in it and see if the issue goes away or get better. If it does keep running it if not then look further into it. Probly more realistic to get the temp down though as it is becomeing more difficult to get non-ethanol fuel.

 

[74 Shortbed]

I used one of these on my 468 in my dually and worked great even in 115* weather..

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[MikeB]

Its heat soak, Eddy's are notorious for it.

Yep, they all have that problem because the float bowls are integral to the main body, unlike Holley's which are exposed to air on the bottom. And 10% ethanol makes it worse.

Using a wood or phenolic spacer reduces the problem somewhat. Here's Edelbrock's offering, but I have to think a slightly thicker one would work better.

https://www.summitracing.com/tx/par...=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-edelbrock\\

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[Honky Kong jr]

Or take a 20lb sledge and play polo with it......

 

[jjewett444]

I am using the edelbrock spacer already which is like 1/4" thick give or take. 87 octane with 10% corn juice right now is about 2.50 a gallon and 87 regular non ethanol is over 3.00 and I don't think it makes a difference. I know someone with a 351w ford which is equipped with a 4150 holley and its more forgiving to this heat soak it seems, problem is my 1405 is about a year old and I spent money to put on elec choke after so probably wont buy a holley lol

 

[jjewett444]

have another question sort of unrelated but I didn't want to start a new thread. so I trucks passenger side exhaust (true duals btw) always sounds strange like its farting lol and when I put my hand over it theres a lot of smacking. drivers side is usually better/normal. sometimes I'm able to adjust the idle mixture screws and smooth the both out but that is rarely and usually when its cold/wet out. also it always smells extremely rich.. I always set my mixture screws by vacuum gauge and have about 18-19 in hg. with extreme needle vibration

 

[crazy4offroad]

Needle vibration, depending on the range can be a number of things. What you're describing sounds like an overtightened exhaust valve, or a sticking or bent valve. Those carbs are notorious for getting the idle air circuit clogged and you have to crank up the idle to get it to run, and it ends up running rich because it's pulling fuel from the primaries instead of the idle circuit. But blowing them out with a compressor clears it up. It's that damned Obama gas. It'll rot a rubber gas line from the inside out. And all that trash makes it way into the carb. I had to change all the rubber lines on my truck over to neoprene and finally got it under control.

 

[jjewett444]

Needle vibration, depending on the range can be a number of things. What you're describing sounds like an overtightened exhaust valve, or a sticking or bent valve. Those carbs are notorious for getting the idle air circuit clogged and you have to crank up the idle to get it to run, and it ends up running rich because it's pulling fuel from the primaries instead of the idle circuit. But blowing them out with a compressor clears it up. It's that damned Obama gas. It'll rot a rubber gas line from the inside out. And all that trash makes it way into the carb. I had to change all the rubber lines on my truck over to neoprene and finally got it under control.

man that ethanol is pretty ****** huh. where can I get the neoprene hoses? I'm about to change 3 old rubber ones from near the tank before I have a leak. anyway I did just pull the valve covers about a week ago and snugged up and checked all valves because I had one on passenger side that I could kinda feel with my hand on the valve cover. my method is to loosen one at a time until I hear it clack then tighten 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. is there a better more accurate method? I didn't think I over tightend and it wasn't my first time or anything ya know. and for the idle circuit I can turn my idle down pretty far and it will still run, also recently removed both idle mixture screws and blasted them and the ports in the carb with brake clean.