Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

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iamtherealJayy

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You see that’s the problem… both ends are 90° just one is softer and one end is more firm. It’s going to be about 30 tomorrow so I’ll try to set the float height and get timing set back. It was about 35° earlier when it started right up with no choke. Which isn’t a bad thing. Just not normal lol. It’s definitely rich
 

iamtherealJayy

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iamtherealJayy

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Float height set with a paper measuring thing that came with the jets and rods. Set at 15/32 and an inch since I couldn’t quite get 14/32(7/16). I have the carb all back together now but I noticed a few drops of fuel came out of the throttle linkage. Is that bad still? Or it it just because I had it apart? I’m waiting to start the truck since I spilled some fuel.
 

iamtherealJayy

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Attempted to start truck, fired instantly(no choke and no pumps of gas) but backfired almost instantly. I got it to pop a few times not really a backfire but a pop from exhaust(no where near as loud as a backfire. It is also still puffing from the carb while cranking. It started to crank slower and slower until it stops turning over(no clicks) voltage gauge shows 12. Is that a bad ground? I had same issue with my jeep where it would turn over slow you stop wait ten minutes and then it would turn over fine. This truck is starting to have same issue. I assume a bad ground?
 

potent rodent

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are u sure u have the firing order right , its easy to have a plug wire crossed u need to go over them again and make sure, send a picture of your plug wires showing them were they are at on the plugs
 

potent rodent

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i seen were u pulled the top of the carb off without pulling the metering rods, u need to pull those out before putting the top back on u run a risk of bending them if u have not all ready
 

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Firing order is correct, I did pull metering rods before reassembly.
 

iamtherealJayy

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Here’s video of firing order. I replaced the ground cable and it fired instantly but died pretty much right after. I cranked again and it went fine about two cranks then got real slow again. Don’t pay attention to my breathing it’s 30° outside and I’m a big person in an engine bay lol.
What’s the reason the voltage gauge shows almost 13 but it’s cranking so slow? If I wait ten minutes and try again it will turn over fine for a second and I figure get slow again.
Edit: yes I know I did it in a weird order doing the drivers side first then passenger side but it was easiest and quickest way to show the firing order in my opinion, all the plug wires are in correct spot starting with 18436572. In the video I also show you where my #1 is because also just my opinion that’s where it should be. Some people rotate it once counter clockwise
 

iamtherealJayy

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Also @potent rodent i normally do pull the metering rods before pulling the top off but I was focused on checking float level and I didn’t pay attention to it but after I took pics I removed them then screwed down the top plate then placed back in metering rods. I need a new top plate gasket mine has a small tear in the front left corner(maybe visible in pics not sure)
Edit: in pics showing float height for the side without accelerator pump you can see on the edge where there’s a slight tear.
 
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potent rodent

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Here’s video of firing order. I replaced the ground cable and it fired instantly but died pretty much right after. I cranked again and it went fine about two cranks then got real slow again. Don’t pay attention to my breathing it’s 30° outside and I’m a big person in an engine bay lol.
What’s the reason the voltage gauge shows almost 13 but it’s cranking so slow? If I wait ten minutes and try again it will turn over fine for a second and I figure get slow again.
Edit: yes I know I did it in a weird order doing the drivers side first then passenger side but it was easiest and quickest way to show the firing order in my opinion, all the plug wires are in correct spot starting with 18436572. In the video I also show you where my #1 is because also just my opinion that’s where it should be. Some people rotate it once counter clockwise
how is your batt is it new or old. you can charge it up and then load test it that will tell u if your batt is bad then check your grounds and check connection at the starter .
 

potent rodent

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if u dont have 12 volts to the dist it wont run very good
 

iamtherealJayy

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The voltage gauge inside truck shows 13 but drops to basically nothing when cranking, I know this is normal to drop during cranking but it pretty much removes all power from the truck and after you let off the start position on the key the voltage slowly rises back to 13. The battery is I dunno maybe 4-5 years old I’d say. The alternator on the truck does work but the voltage gauge reads too high in my opinion closer to 15/16 volts while running
 

potent rodent

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how are your batt terminal ends , it sounds like u got a bad connection, what does the main cable look like going to the starter , charge your batt up and load test it, if its 4 or 5 years old it may be going bad u need to make sure
 

iamtherealJayy

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How do I load test a battery? I’ve never been one to do battery work. I can charge it and replace it no problem but I’ve never quite understood how ohms resistance etc work. I know resistance is how to check a ground but no idea how it all works. I can throw the battery on the charger in the morning. My plugs came in but I want to get the truck running before I put new plugs in and risk fouling them
 

Blackbeard44

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put the new plugs in it and give it a whirl, try not to use the choke see what it does.
 

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