Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

[AuroraGirl]

Someone already said it but I was going to say edelbrock recommends the opposite vacuum port,

Although I cant remember if i did it right or not, but figured to point out that one is preferred over another(I think you got that much)
https://edelbrock-instructions-v1.s3.amazonaws.com/edelbrock/carb-tuning-guide.pdf

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[iamtherealJayy]

@AuroraGirl i changed it to full manifold vacuum. Is there a way to test vacuum advance is working without sucking on the hose? Lol. I tried to pull a vacuum with my mouth and nothing obvious moved and it tasted terrible. I don’t know if it wasn’t enough or if I was just grossed out about how it tasted

 

[Bextreme04]

@potent rodent …mikes roll over after 100k, odometer says 12k, pedals show that’s atleast 112… the rubber on clutch pedal is missing. Distributor was on engine when I got it. I bought the truck as “would run” not necessarily non running, it needed a fuel tank put on and the carb cleaned supposedly. I didn’t decide that, I was told that by previous owners.
@Bextreme04 ill do a compression test if I can get my hands on a tool to do it. The engine has a little top end chatter but I assumed it to be normal for how old it is. I don’t expect the engine to run a 10 second down the strip, it’s a beater/work truck, I just need it to run to get me a-b. Do you know what around the compression should be? 150? Never performed a compression test before. I’ll see if I have a tester and do that and then check the tdc on #1 and see where rotor is. Where would the rotor be if it’s not at compression stroke? Would it be at #6? Or should I just make sure it’s compression stroke.

A stock truck 350 with a stock cam will likely be around 120psi. It depends on altitude, mechanical compression ratio and dynamic compression ratio. My truck runs around 150psi with an RV cam and 9:1 mechanical compression. The most important thing isn't necessarily what the compression number is. You will want them to al be above 110psi and all of them should be within 5-10% of each other. If 7 of them are right around 150, and 1 is at 120... that 120psi one is going to be the one with the problem. You should also test each cylinder twice. Once with the cylinder "dry" and then a second time after you have added a tablespoon or so of engine oil. If the rings are worn, you will have a significant increase in compression when "wet" compared to "Dry". I would also suggest if you have a noisy top end that you just pull the valve covers and do a valve adjustment on it also.

 

[potent rodent]

pull your dist cap, get it up on number 1 comp stroke and see were your dist cap is pointing if u can take some pictures that would help

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’ll go pull all the plugs out and try to get #1 to tdc of compression. Also yank dist cap off see where rotor is and send pics of plugs and dist.

 

[Poppy 87]

@AuroraGirl i changed it to full manifold vacuum. Is there a way to test vacuum advance is working without sucking on the hose? Lol. I tried to pull a vacuum with my mouth and nothing obvious moved and it tasted terrible. I don’t know if it wasn’t enough or if I was just grossed out about how it tasted

A Mighty Vac tool is very useful for not only operating vacuum advance, but has many other uses on these trucks (testing hvac components, cruise control,even bleeding brakes). Good luck

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I have a vacuum bleeder for brakes(not a might vac brand) I never thought about trying it but thank you. Should whatever advances be an obvious change?

 

[iamtherealJayy]

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All spark plugs, labeled, and the rotor position with #1 at the top of cylinder. I don’t know if it’s compression or exhaust as I’m by myself.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

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Also here’s my attempt at getting a photo of the timing marks. I couldn’t get enough light right now but you can faintly see it.

 

[Bextreme04]

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Also here’s my attempt at getting a photo of the timing marks. I couldn’t get enough light right now but you can faintly see it.

#1 plug wire should be on the cap directly clockwise from the power plug(where your thumb is in the picture). The firing order should then go clockwise as 18436572. See image below:

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I had that exact same timing cover. The large notch in the middle is 0 degrees on that timing tab. Thats going to be something like 14-20 degrees advanced. Its incredibly hard to tell just by looking at a distributor or timing tab where actual mechanical TDC is. You can try to put in a long screwdriver or something that will physically stop the piston at the same spot, then rotate the motor until it stops clockwise and then back the other way counterclockwise until it stops again. Halfway in between will be mechanical TDC. If you have the vale cover off you can see if you are on the compression stroke or not. You can also turn it over until you feel air rush out of the spark plug hole to know if you are on the compression stroke.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Dad just got home I had him bump the key until it blew my thumb off #1 and the rotor is pointing towards the firewall and the line on harmonic balancer is at like 6° on the timing tab. So is my distributor 180° off?

 

[iamtherealJayy]

@Bextreme04

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This is the current spark plug wire locations

 

[iamtherealJayy]

The rotor looks like it would currently be pointing at 6? I believe based off location on cap.

 

[Bextreme04]

@Bextreme04

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This is the current spark plug wire locations

That plug wire arrangement will work. I would have them rotated 1 spot counterclockwise, but that is only personal preference. If you have the rotor pointed to #6 right now with the balancer at 6 degrees right after blowing your thumb off the spark plug hole... then you are 180 degrees off. I would leave the motor where it is, pull the distributor out and stick it back in with the rotor pointed at #1. I'd suggest you get a sharpie and mark the base of the distributor where the #1 plug position is and also a physical reference point to something easily identifiable to a spot on the intake manifold(such as where it lines up to the manifold vacuum port). That way you can always easily set the distributor in the right place if the engine is set to #1 TDC on the compression stroke.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I flipped the distributor 180, it is now at between 8 and 4, does that seem closer to in the ballpark? I felt compression by bumping the key not turning by hand. Just thought I’d verify that real quick, so between 8 and 4 could be right? Maybe? I’m putting the spark plugs back in right now to see if it’ll start.