Driveshaft help

[TubeTruck]

Getting closer to installing my axles under the Suburban. One last item I was researching brought me to a halt. That would be the rear u-joint. The Suburban has a 1310, the 2002 rear, a 1410 (1.188 cap x 4.18oal). There is no conversion joint for these sizes so I need to rethink driveshaft options. I don't really want to buy a new driveshaft right now. That will come later when I want to lift it. Figuring junkyards around here only have 2000ish up vehicles what would be the best driveshaft to use? My current driveshaft is a one piece with a splined slip joint. I know most use a slip yoke these days.

My thought was to buy a 1350 or 1410 yoke for the driveshaft, weld it in and have it rebalanced.

Any other thoughts?

 

[bucket]

Your thought makes good sense to me. Either that or get a 1350 yoke for the rear axle.

 

[TubeTruck]

Anyone know what the wall thickness is on the rear shaft?

 

[Craig 85]

If you go the 1350 route, here's the part number for the combo U-joint.

Spicer 1310-1350 Part# 5-460X or
O’Reilly’s – Precision U-joint Part# 348
(3.219 / 1.062 to 3.625 / 1.188)

 

[Ricko1966]

I've always been able to find a ujoint, it's been time consuming but precision has a chart that lists all the diamensions of it must be 100's of u joints . Have you found that chart and searched it real good.And if you can find a driveshaft with the same O.D. And the joint u need it's NBD to grind the weld off with the chop saw the joint yoke slides inside the driveshaft tube slide it out cut the weld on the other one slide it in and weld it.The tube holds it in line. Mark the shaft so the caps are in the same location.You won't even need to balance it. Everything will be so close to original.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

A driveshaft shop will easily be able to find the u-joint, or put a new yoke on the driveshaft would be the best route. Definitely want it rebalanced as weight and distribution of it varies immensely.

I don't think any late model trucks come with fixed yoke transfer cases or transmissions.

 

[Nonstop]

May I suggest putting a 1350 yoke on the rear end instead? Plenty of yokes available and you can then use the conversion joint. Maybe money/time ahead!

 

[Ricko1966]

A driveshaft shop will easily be able to find the u-joint, or put a new yoke on the driveshaft would be the best route. Definitely want it rebalanced as weight and distribution of it varies immensely.

I don't think any late model trucks come with fixed yoke transfer cases or transmissions.

If you've ever marked a tire as to valve stem location then remounted matching marks to preserve balance you'll understand this.When you cut the weld and slip the yoke out and back in you haven't changed anything enough to cause a vibration.Done it more than once

 

[PrairieDrifter]

If you've ever marked a tire as to valve stem location then remounted matching marks to preserve balance you'll understand this.When you cut the weld and slip the yoke out and back in you haven't changed anything enough to cause a vibration.Done it more than once

A tire is a much less precise component, not saying it won't work on a driveshaft but yes I've done multiple sets of new and repaired tires.

But for it to be done right after cutting and welding and parts swapping pay the extra xx amount of money to do it. Tires are way more forgiving than drivetrain components and spin way slower too, and the bill will be less expensive after you're driveshaft slops out all of your bearings from slight vibration that could be unnoticeable because of factory rubber engine and trans mounts.

My whole thing is do it right and all the way through. A lot of things change when you cut a full yoke off, the welds would have to be perfectly recreated, all of the weights and orientation of the components would have to be perfect, changing yoke styles that are shaped and weigh different.

 

[TubeTruck]

Thanks for all the input guys! I've done driveshaft mods before but I just don't know the wall thickness of the factory driveshaft. It's either 0.065 or 0.083. $50 and $25 respectively for the weld in yoke to convert it to a 1410. If anyone has a stock rear driveshaft they feel like cutting open feel free to let me know lol

If I can't find the info I'll probably just run it in FWD while the rear driveshaft it out but I'd like to get it done beforehand.

 

[bucket]

I always thought the shaft was technically measured ID and wall thickness didn't matter for the yoke. Everytime I've taken a few used shafts to my local local driveline shop so they can make one shaft (yeah, I'm cheap), they have never said anything about the wall thickness being important. Now I wonder if I've just been lucky this whole time, or if they have ways of making it fit and be reliable.

 

[TubeTruck]

I always thought the shaft was technically measured ID and wall thickness didn't matter for the yoke. Everytime I've taken a few used shafts to my local local driveline shop so they can make one shaft (yeah, I'm cheap), they have never said anything about the wall thickness being important. Now I wonder if I've just been lucky this whole time, or if they have ways of making it fit and be reliable.

Me too. But Denny's Driveshaft lists all the yokes by O.D. and wall thickness. I have a 3.5" o.d. shaft. That was the easy part lol

I forgot to keep the driveshaft from my '75. Would have been easy if I did that lol