Driver4r's Monte
- Thread starter Driver4r
- Start date
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Driver4r
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- Jun 21, 2012
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- 3,087
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- Location
- Nebraska
- First Name
- Trevor
- Truck Year
- 76,74
- Truck Model
- k10,c20
- Engine Size
- 355/th350/np203, 454/th350/ff-rear
lol, yea.... Right now it looks like an old guy that's bald on top. Theres no vinyl on the top, its deteriated. This winter I was thinking of sending it in for paint. It will be lost then, for now its kind of a sleeper look(until I starts).
Midwest4x4
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- Omaha
- First Name
- Phil
- Truck Year
- 1985
- Truck Model
- K10
- Engine Size
- 355
Thank you, It doesn't run to bad eitherlol.
Lol I bet, I miss mine.. I wish I would have kept it... And x2 on the vinyl top
Driver4r
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- Trevor
- Truck Year
- 76,74
- Truck Model
- k10,c20
- Engine Size
- 355/th350/np203, 454/th350/ff-rear
Today I tried something New, I added some E85 to my tank to give me a little more octane, and also hope it didn't thicken up to much to need to rejet. 2 parts 87oct:1 part E85(1/2:1/4).
Now I need to mess with my timing, its not to happy.
Now I need to mess with my timing, its not to happy.
Stewzer55
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- Stew
- Truck Year
- 1988
- Truck Model
- R30
- Engine Size
- 350 TBI
You would need a conversion kit for your carb if you wanted to run E85 all the time, its more of a 10: 1 AFR you need versus the 14.7:1 for gasoline.
Driver4r
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- First Name
- Trevor
- Truck Year
- 76,74
- Truck Model
- k10,c20
- Engine Size
- 355/th350/np203, 454/th350/ff-rear
Yes... Ive set my lawntractor up to run on straight alky befor, and plenty of my dads buddys are running E85 in their vehicles, Also, my dad used to have a 455 Running on pure alky back in the 80's.
Last edited:
Driver4r
Full Access Member
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- Reaction score
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- Nebraska
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- Trevor
- Truck Year
- 76,74
- Truck Model
- k10,c20
- Engine Size
- 355/th350/np203, 454/th350/ff-rear
Looks like its time to buy some nylocks, Heard a slight nocking sound yesterday in town when I started it up, so today I jacked it up and yup, torque convertor bolts had vibrated loose. I was afraid that I cracked my flexplate, not saying I havnt, just saying I havnt seen it yet, ill buy some nylocks and see if that fixes it.
- Joined
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- Andy
- Truck Year
- '77, '78, '79, '84, '88
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I put loc-tite on them.
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- HotRod
- Truck Year
- 85 K20 LWB
- Truck Model
- Silverado
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- 454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
That's all I'd do. And hand tool loc-tite at that. Are you sure you didn't use SAE bolts in Metric Lugs??? They will go in, tear up the threads, then slowly work themselves out. I've seen it done several times.
Driver4r
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- 76,74
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- Engine Size
- 355/th350/np203, 454/th350/ff-rear
No they are not lol, I went to the hardware store and bought bolts/nuts when I put it together the first time.
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- HotRod
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- 85 K20 LWB
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- Engine Size
- 454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
Cool, so you have the flat pad type instead of bolt lugs. That's actually the better converter.
- Joined
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- HotRod
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- Engine Size
- 454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
Not in the Th350 converters. Now if you have a Th400 converter with the lugs then that one is a hair stronger than the Th350 with the flat pad where you have to both Nut and Bolt the pads to the flywheel but in the Th350 converters, the flat pad units are best. They are also getting to be rare and hard to find cores. The guy who bought my 88 Burb, works for Transtar in OKC, when he seen all my Th350 converters with pads, he about got a boner. Told me don't even get rid of those, of course I knew that already.
