Driver4r's Monte

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Stewzer55

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Stew
Truck Year
1988
Truck Model
R30
Engine Size
350 TBI
Need to lose that vinyl top....
 

Driver4r

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Trevor
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76,74
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k10,c20
Engine Size
355/th350/np203, 454/th350/ff-rear
Need to lose that vinyl top....

lol, yea.... Right now it looks like an old guy that's bald on top. Theres no vinyl on the top, its deteriated. This winter I was thinking of sending it in for paint. It will be lost then, for now its kind of a sleeper look(until I starts).
 

Driver4r

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k10,c20
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355/th350/np203, 454/th350/ff-rear
We had a little local carshow at the local Sonic tonight.
 

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Driver4r

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Today I tried something New, I added some E85 to my tank to give me a little more octane, and also hope it didn't thicken up to much to need to rejet. 2 parts 87oct:1 part E85(1/2:1/4).

Now I need to mess with my timing, its not to happy.
 

Stewzer55

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You would need a conversion kit for your carb if you wanted to run E85 all the time, its more of a 10: 1 AFR you need versus the 14.7:1 for gasoline.
 

Driver4r

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You would need a conversion kit for your carb if you wanted to run E85 all the time, its more of a 10: 1 AFR you need versus the 14.7:1 for gasoline.

Yes... Ive set my lawntractor up to run on straight alky befor, and plenty of my dads buddys are running E85 in their vehicles, Also, my dad used to have a 455 Running on pure alky back in the 80's.
 
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Driver4r

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355/th350/np203, 454/th350/ff-rear
Looks like its time to buy some nylocks, Heard a slight nocking sound yesterday in town when I started it up, so today I jacked it up and yup, torque convertor bolts had vibrated loose. I was afraid that I cracked my flexplate, not saying I havnt, just saying I havnt seen it yet, ill buy some nylocks and see if that fixes it.
 

bucket

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I put loc-tite on them.
 

HotRodPC

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I put loc-tite on them.

That's all I'd do. And hand tool loc-tite at that. Are you sure you didn't use SAE bolts in Metric Lugs??? They will go in, tear up the threads, then slowly work themselves out. I've seen it done several times.
 

Driver4r

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Trevor
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k10,c20
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355/th350/np203, 454/th350/ff-rear
That's all I'd do. And hand tool loc-tite at that. Are you sure you didn't use SAE bolts in Metric Lugs??? They will go in, tear up the threads, then slowly work themselves out. I've seen it done several times.

No they are not lol, I went to the hardware store and bought bolts/nuts when I put it together the first time.
 

HotRodPC

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No they are not lol, I went to the hardware store and bought bolts/nuts when I put it together the first time.

Cool, so you have the flat pad type instead of bolt lugs. That's actually the better converter.
 

Driver4r

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Trevor
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k10,c20
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355/th350/np203, 454/th350/ff-rear
Cool, so you have the flat pad type instead of bolt lugs. That's actually the better converter.

Really? Ive always thought the ones with the threads in the pads were the better ones.
 

HotRodPC

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454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
Really? Ive always thought the ones with the threads in the pads were the better ones.

Not in the Th350 converters. Now if you have a Th400 converter with the lugs then that one is a hair stronger than the Th350 with the flat pad where you have to both Nut and Bolt the pads to the flywheel but in the Th350 converters, the flat pad units are best. They are also getting to be rare and hard to find cores. The guy who bought my 88 Burb, works for Transtar in OKC, when he seen all my Th350 converters with pads, he about got a boner. Told me don't even get rid of those, of course I knew that already.
 

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