Driver’s side sending unit ground

[clickittyclank]

Dropped the tanks on my 87 gmc Sierra classic with dual tanks to refresh the fuel system and bring her back to life and ran into a bit of a hiccup.

The ground for the sending unit on the driver’s side tank is in a very tight spot. Seems to be under a bracket that’s holding electrical lines to the frame and this is next to all three metal fuel lines in a very tough spot.

Have any of y’all changed locations for this ground? Really not sure how I could get it back to the same spot as access from the other side is very limited. Would hate to do it but was thinking to snip the new sending units spade off, extend the wire and ground it in the same spot as the filler neck. Figured I’d ask y’all for ideas before doing anything drastic. Thanks!

 

[Ricko1966]

Dropped the tanks on my 87 gmc Sierra classic with dual tanks to refresh the fuel system and bring her back to life and ran into a bit of a hiccup.

The ground for the sending unit on the driver’s side tank is in a very tight spot. Seems to be under a bracket that’s holding electrical lines to the frame and this is next to all three metal fuel lines in a very tough spot.

Have any of y’all changed locations for this ground? Really not sure how I could get it back to the same spot as access from the other side is very limited. Would hate to do it but was thinking to snip the new sending units spade off, extend the wire and ground it in the same spot as the filler neck. Figured I’d ask y’all for ideas before doing anything drastic. Thanks!

Why would you need to snip it? You can bolt it anywhere on the frame you want you just need a bolt a nut a star washer and a hole.

 

[clickittyclank]

Didn’t look like there was a hole in a convenient spot for it but guess I could drill one out. Thanks for the quick response.

 

[Radiohead]

I would stay with the frame and not body sheet metal. Find a convenient place and hook 'er up.

 

[clickittyclank]

Thank y’all for the suggestions. Will see if what I can come up with for it.

While I’m asking about the fuel system, do these metal/ribbed fuel line connections come off easily or anything I should know about? Going to update all the rubber lines with fresh correctly rated hose while I’m here.

 

[Ricko1966]

Thank y’all for the suggestions. Will see if what I can come up with for it.

While I’m asking about the fuel system, do these metal/ribbed fuel line connections come off easily or anything I should know about? Going to update all the rubber lines with fresh correctly rated hose while I’m here.

No they don't come off easily,you'll need to slit them in 2 places 180* apart and peel them off. The tubing below will be barbed. Going back together use fuel injection clamp not worm gear clamps.

 

[clickittyclank]

That sounds a hell of a lot easier to do with the lines off. Looks like I’ve got a day ahead of me haha

 

[clickittyclank]

The connectors are a lot thicker than I was thinking. Is cutting them off typically what y’all do or replace the metal line with normal connections?

 

[Ricko1966]

The connectors are a lot thicker than I was thinking. Is cutting them off typically what y’all do or replace the metal line with normal connections?

What do you mean normal connections? I'd slit those with a cutoff wheel or hack saw and peel them open.

 

[clickittyclank]

Just meant with a flared end/lip for the hose to snug against as “normal.” Cutting them off is kind of the direction I’m leaning towards. I apologize for the simple questions but wanting to do things correctly and not have to do it again in the near future.

 

[Broken85]

Snip them in the middle and then take your time getting the rubber off of the fuel line when the tank is removed. Replace them with about 12” of hose when you put the tank back up. This will make reinstall of the tank 100x easier.

 

[Ricko1966]

Just meant with a flared end/lip for the hose to snug against as “normal.” Cutting them off is kind of the direction I’m leaning towards. I apologize for the simple questions but wanting to do things correctly and not have to do it again in the near future.

Still don't understand what you are calling normal connections. I'm putting up a pic of an air hose fitting. You are dealing with a very similiar deal. If you cut that crimp in 2 spots peel it open like a banana,slit the hose in 2 places wuth a razor knife,peel it like a banana,you will be left with a tube with a barbed end.

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[clickittyclank]

That’s extremely helpful for understanding the connection. Thank you for that.

 

[Sgt Gus]

Also, if you haven't, use search feature "replace fuel tanks". You'll see lots of pics and suggestions.

 

[AuroraGirl]

That’s extremely helpful for understanding the connection. Thank you for that.

there is a single (flare) called a ferrule, it is slightly up from the end of the actual pipe, that hose slips up to that and the metal crimp barrel secures the hose onto the pipe by clamping that ferrule and hose


The fix and repair cuts the crimp barrel and then slips the right kind of hose past the ferrule, and then clamping past it.

you can actually cut the extra pipe off if desired but its easy to slip over. this is a very easy and common way to fix transmission/powersteering low pressure (sub 200 psi, aka return lines/cooler lines) because the hoses over time get old , brittle, and then the crimp never tightens it only stays constant, and then oil will weep out past the hose since it then gets clearance