Drive line vibration

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86shorty

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hey guys I’ve gone thru and read some past threads on drive line vibrations, I didn’t see anything that helped in my case.

1986 gmc c 1500 fleetside
Has a bad vibration at 90 km’s goes away at 100 km’s

It had the vibration when it was stock it was lowered
Has all new u joints installed new yoke
Wheel bearings, brakes,

It’s a mystery to me and I live in a small province so I’m sorta limited resources. Hoping you square body gear heads can help me out.
What do I do ?
 

1973c10

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I found this info maybe it will help




Vibration in a driveshaft can be caused by many conditions. One of the most common cause of driveline vibration are worn U-joints or slip splines, out-of-balance components, yokes out of phase or misaligned angles, approaching critical speed range, and yoke ears that are not concentric with the splines. Vibrations problems must be diagnosed accurately and corrected quickly to avoid damage to the driveline components.



It is often difficult to determine if a vibration of vehicle is coming from the driveshaft or something else. Here are some things to think about while you are troubleshooting any driveshaft problem.

First, Second and Third Order Driveshaft Vibrations

A First order driveshaft vibration will cause one shake or disturbance for each revolution of the driveshaft.

IMPORTANT: Anything that is out of balance will only cause a first order vibration, never any higher order vibrations.

First order driveshaft vibration is usually caused by:

  • A component rotating the same speed as the driveshaft that is out-of-round.
  • A component rotating the same speed as the driveshaft that is out-of-balance.
  • Drive axle problems.
  • Driveshaft balance issues can generally be felt at vehicle speeds over 30mi./h


A Second order driveshaft vibration will cause two shakes or disturbances for each revolution of the driveshaft.

IMPORTANT: A component that is out of balance will NEVER cause a second or higher order vibration, only a first order vibration.

Second order driveshaft vibration is usually caused by:
  • Incorrect Vehicle Trim Height
  • Powertrain Mounting Problems
  • Failed or Failing U-Joints
  • Improperly phased or twisted driveshafts
  • Improper driveshaft angles. Driveshaft angle problems can be felt at very low speeds, and higher speeds
  • Drive Axle Problems
Please go to our Driveline Angle Analysis Page for more information.

Third order driveshaft vibration will cause three shakes or disturbances for each revolution of the driveshaft.

This type of vibration is very rare and will not be present on vehicles with Cardan U-joints.

IMPORTANT: A component that is out of balance will NEVER cause a third or higher order vibration, only a first order vibration.

Third order driveshaft vibrations are usually caused by:

  • Failed, failing or binding Constant Velocity (CV) Joints.
  • Remove the driveshaft and rotate the CV-joint through its full range of motion while feeling for any rough spots or looseness.
 

The88

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How about tire wear? Is is a seat of the pants vibration or a steering wheel vibration?
 

86shorty

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You can feel the vibration under your feet and in the stick shift in the floor
It’s quite bad
 

The88

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How about drive line angles? Is All that good to go?
 

bft305

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When was the last time you had your motor mounts and tranny mount replaced? I had a similar vibration and it was from the u-joints in the front driveshaft. Though I see you have already replaced your u-joints. Replacing my mounts also helped with vibration.
 

Matt69olds

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Assuming all the driveline components are in good shape, and the tires and rims are straight and in good shape, and the tire balance is done correctly, try flipping the drive shaft 180 degrees on the rear end yoke. Try reclocking the torque converter in a different position on the flex plate. Has this vibration always been there, or did it start after a repair or modification?
 

Matt69olds

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And look closely at the tire weights used to balance the tires. If there is more than a few ounces in one spot, have the tire shop “match balance” the tire/wheel assembly. That means finding the heaviest part of the tire, and mounting it so the heavy spot is near the lightest part of the rim. That will limit how much weight is needed to bring things in balance. I mention this because when I had tires installed on my Ram, the kid had used 4 big weights all in one spot. When I insisted the move the tire on the wheel it only took one small weight to bring things into balance. Sure, it’s more work, but it’s the correct way to do things.
 

idahovette

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The "sudden service" boys here spin the tire put on the weights called for ,take it off the balancer and put it on the rig. No check spin , nothing. Also I am a firm believer in rebalancing at 200-400 miles later because some tires do not seat on the rim until you drive a few miles.
 

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