D44 longer Wheel Stud P/N needed

[MtBraun]

I don't think the stock length D44 9/16-18 studs (2") will be long enough for aftermarket aluminum rims. I'm looking for verification of a part number that someone has actually used. Here's what I think may work:
Dorman 610-278 - 2.625"OAL, .62" knurl
Dorman 610-419 - 2.58" OAL, .619 knurl
Dorman 610-563 - 3.00" OAL, .658 knurl

What I'm uncertain about in all these options is the distance of the knurl from stud head. As you know the knurl needs to be about .375" from the head to be free from the rotor and engage the hub. Thanks!

 

[bucket]

9/16? So it's an 8-lug then? Normally people are only concerned with the length of the 6-lug studs.

 

[MtBraun]

9/16? So it's an 8-lug then? Normally people are only concerned with the length of the 6-lug studs.

Correct, 8 lug. I don't see how the stock length of 2" will be long enough for aftermarket rims.

 

[CalSgt]

Correct, 8 lug. I don't see how the stock length of 2" will be long enough for aftermarket rims.

Most aftermarket aluminum wheels have the mounting holes countersunk into the face of the wheel, even the old mag wheels used the shank style nuts and didn't need studs if the wheel face was flush to the end of the stud.

I don't recall ever changing wheel studs when changing to aftermarket wheels when I worked in tire shops.

 

[MtBraun]

Most aftermarket aluminum wheels have the mounting holes countersunk into the face of the wheel, even the old mag wheels used the shank style nuts and didn't need studs if the wheel face was flush to the end of the stud.

I don't recall ever changing wheel studs when changing to aftermarket wheels when I worked in tire shops.

Thanks for the background. I was reading content on other sites (perhaps uninformed) that said I would need longer studs with a wheel change.

 

[bucket]

Correct, 8 lug. I don't see how the stock length of 2" will be long enough for aftermarket rims.

I've run several types of aftermarket aluminum rims on the 8-lug axles and imho, the length is good. That's with tapered seat style lugs too, not shank style.

Now the 6-lug axles with 7/16" studs, that's a different story.

 

[Big red square]

I've run several types of aftermarket aluminum rims on the 8-lug axles and imho, the length is good. That's with tapered seat style lugs too, not shank style.

Now the 6-lug axles with 7/16" studs, that's a different story.

What do you do with the 6 lugs?

 

[bucket]

What do you do with the 6 lugs?

It all depends on what you are comfortable with. Imho, the stock 7/16" studs are a bit on the small side, not even factoring in length. But as far as length goes, they are definitely on the short side when using some aftermarket aluminum wheels with tapered seats. Vintage aluminum wheels that use shank type lugs have plenty of thread engagement, as do steel wheels.

I used to have a part # for a longer Dorman stud that was a direct replacement, but last I knew, it was out of production. Now to upgrade the studs to longer and also 1/2", you are probably going to have to drill the rotors and hubs to fit a suitable wheel stud.

 

[Big red square]

It all depends on what you are comfortable with. Imho, the stock 7/16" studs are a bit on the small side, not even factoring in length. But as far as length goes, they are definitely on the short side when using some aftermarket aluminum wheels with tapered seats. Vintage aluminum wheels that use shank type lugs have plenty of thread engagement, as do steel wheels.

I used to have a part # for a longer Dorman stud that was a direct replacement, but last I knew, it was out of production. Now to upgrade the studs to longer and also 1/2", you are probably going to have to drill the rotors and hubs to fit a suitable wheel stud.

That's safe to do drill the holes?

 

[bucket]

That's safe to do drill the holes?

Yeah, as long as you drill the right size hole for a nice press fit and they are straight. If you are uncomfortable with doing it yourself, you can have a machine shop do it for you.

The key is the knurled section of the new wheel studs. The knurled area must be long enough to protrude through the rotor and also bite into the wheel hub.

 

[squaredeal91]

How many threads do you have with your new wheels?
On a 66c20 I put aluminum stock takeoffs on it and I only have 8 threads holding them on. I haven't driven it yet but was concerned about if 8 turns is enough to be safe?

 

[Bextreme04]

How many threads do you have with your new wheels?
On a 66c20 I put aluminum stock takeoffs on it and I only have 8 threads holding them on. I haven't driven it yet but was concerned about if 8 turns is enough to be safe?

For steel, you need at least 1x the nominal thread diameter for maximum strength. 1-1/2x nominal thread diameter is even better. So for an 8-lug that would be 9/16-7/8" of thread engagement in the nut.

Since the thread pitch is 9/16-18, you have 18 threads in one inch of fastener. That means with 8 threads you are almost exactly 1/2" of engagement. Chances are, you are actually getting more than that though. You can actually just screw the lug nut on and count how many full revolutions it takes to get to the proper torque. If you get 10 or more full turns to the proper torque(120 lb-ft), you are good.

 

[Bextreme04]

Thanks for the background. I was reading content on other sites (perhaps uninformed) that said I would need longer studs with a wheel change.

I have run two separate sets of aluminum wheels on my K25. Both sets have plenty of stud engagement.

 

[bucket]

I have run two separate sets of aluminum wheels on my K25. Both sets have plenty of stud engagement.

It's just the 6-lug K10's that have the issue really. You can run pretty much anything on the 8-lug trucks and have plenty of thread engagement.