Cylinder head gasket replacement job

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Rusty Nail

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I like how this thread keeps going.
Nothing from the OP but that ain't gonna stop us!
Gawldangit!
:flamingdevil:

3 pages beeeoootch!
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Andrew Koetz

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In looking at the PDF that was the style of temp sender unit that was in the motor originally; I was not aware of the vintage of the engine until a couple months ago. Also the original temp gauge was not functioning when I swapped it out for a unit from LMC truck; (I specified an 84 Suburban for the new gauge; I will double check the gauge when I have time to see if it has the ground on the back of it as well. I am fixing my burb on a budget and work on things as I go. And like I said in my original post when I signed up; this truck was owned by a rancher for 38 years in Texas & it had "ranch repairs" that I quickly fixed so things were right. I changed out the power steering pump; both lines, rebuilt the 4x4 on teh frnt axle; did not work on the diff's; other than changed the gaskets that were leaking; I still have to change the seals on both around the drive shaft; the front one is leaking a bit. I am going to hit the underside of the body with a power washer before the snow flies to figure out my next plan of attack when 2024 gets here. The only positive thing about this burb is the body is solid; only rot is the outside rocker panel under the driver side passenger door. The positive is there is not 39 years of rust & rot on everything & I can turn the nuts & bolts without too much force or use of pepetrating oil.
 

Andrew Koetz

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I checked the box for the sender I got & it was a Standard TS71 and it has a male blade connector on it; could this be an improved connector instead of the senders from the 1960's & 70's????
 

Ricko1966

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So anyway did you check the resistance yet so we can determine if the sender is the problem. I gave you the values on post 29.You need to start checking and diagnosing not just guessing and changing things at random
 

Andrew Koetz

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I will be checking the resistance values either tomorrow or Sunday after I get home from work.
 

Andrew Koetz

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Andrew Koetz

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Figured out the issue on my suburban on Monday last week when I was under it checking hardware & tightening some things up. My coolant leak issue is due to my water pump is going bad; could not see any active drips on the driveway due to there is the cross member right under the pulleys where the motor mounts are at. As I was tightening up the trans pan bolts with the truck running I slid under the engine & saw anti freeze coming out of the weep hole. Water pump will be here tomorrow from Rock Auto. Temp sender for the antifreeeze; the resistor was junk; I tested it's replacement before I left the parts store; new one works.
 

Andrew Koetz

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*lookin at you temp sender*

Why were you messin with the temp sender dude? Does the truck drive funny? Is it overheating?
The temp gauge was not reading at all. I bught a new sender last year swapped it out; unbeknwnst to me the sender was bad right out of the box; my multi-meter confirmed this. I tested a NEW one at the parts store before I brought it home; the replacement works as designed. My temp gauge after the truck ran for 10 minutes was pegged at 260 degrees & I know the engine was not overheating. Grounds were checked & intact; nothing wrong with them.
 

Ricko1966

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The temp gauge was not reading at all. I bught a new sender last year swapped it out; unbeknwnst to me the sender was bad right out of the box; my multi-meter confirmed this. I tested a NEW one at the parts store before I brought it home; the replacement works as designed. My temp gauge after the truck ran for 10 minutes was pegged at 260 degrees & I know the engine was not overheating. Grounds were checked & intact; nothing wrong with them.
You didn't know the engine wasn't overheating,which is you changed the thermostat and radiator and why all the coaching from us to keep you from changing headgaskets,before diagnosing the real problem.
 
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Rusty Nail

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Ever heard of the "flag rate"?
There are people that  can work on cars successfully, fir a living, but you sir are not one of them.
Call a mechanic. Take the truck to a shop..
 

Andrew Koetz

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5.7 350 V8 208 T-Case; 10 bolt front 14 bolt semi rear
You didn't know the engine wasn't overheating,which is you changed the thermostat and radiator and why all the coaching from us to keep you from changing headgaskets,before diagnosing the real problem.
The radiator needed to get changed anyway, same with the termostat; both were original to the truck & upon further investigating I did crawl under the truck & noed the weep hole on the water pump was pissing like a racehorse; issue on the head gakets is dead. Bad water pump. Said truck was a rancher's truck originally & it had "rancher's repairs" on it. I have been correcting these rancher's repairs since I have acquired it. The battery originally had 2 black wires on it; not done by me. High & low pressure side PS lines badly weather checked; also original & ranch repaired with hose clamps; not done by me; I have since corrected these issues replacing the battery cables & PS lines with new ones; the PS pump was leaking; also original & needed replacement; done. Also the 350 in this truck is from the early 70's; either 1973 or 74; as it has Chevy Orange paint on the air intake & absolutely no pollution control crap; this was done whilst in Texas at the ranch. I rebuilt the front stub axles for the 4x4 in the driveway replacing the U joints, inner & outer races & bearings, rotors, front flexible brake lines. The master cylinder took a sit on me last summer & I replaced that; how do I know the master was bad you ask???? The truck wouldn't stop when pressuer was applied to the brake pedal & the master cylinder was leaking fluid between it & the booster. Should I post pictures???????
 

Ricko1966

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Yep. Good thing the master cylinder wasn't bypassing we'd of been on that for 12 pages. P.s. they had 2 black battery cables from the factory And while we are replacing parts just because they are original? You got lots more stuff to change.
 
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