Crate engine swap advise please?

[Skweegle89]

#1 sounds OK except for the trouble shooting. The other post was troubleshooting and I still have trouble. I am willing to do it though.

#2 sounds like if done right, could ad some hp now and have potential for the future if the right block can be fired up for $2500.

#3 I don't know if can be done on budget. There always seams to be more to buy, like torque converter, flex plate, electric fuel pump, cam, etc.

#4 I've heard repeatedly that it cost the same to rebuild as to buy a crate and you just have a old motor with no warranty.

I am not arguing with you if you cant tell. I'm just confused and overloaded with good information.

I was in the same boat as you a few months ago. Ended up being a couple bent pushrods and several wiped cam lobes. Not at all saying that's what your problem is, as it's probably not, but I threw parts and money at it for a good 4 months before I pulled the cam and later the whole motor. Ended up buying the $1500 crate with a 3 year 100k mile warranty. Traded my 1406 carb for a performer intake that replaced the high rise that was on it. Bought a qjet and haven't looked back. Just do yourself a favor before you buy a motor and find somebody with a spare qjet carb that you can borrow for a day. Slap it on and tune it and see if it helps. My 1406 was holding me way back. I have a thread on here about 80 pages long trying to diagnose my problem. We finally found it but it was a frustrating road. Spend some time and make sure your motor is in good shape and if it is, cam it, carb it and toss an intake and headers on it so it can breath and you won't be disappointed.


Sent from an old rotary telephone.

 

[350runner]

you will be happy with that 325hp engine you posted in that link. it will go very good with your current drivetrain. honestly throwing money at the engine you have now isn't going to yield the results your looking for because you don't know what compression is or much about the engine it self.



Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[MadOgre]

I think your going to spend too much unnecessary money if your motor is good. You like to fish? Those 1406 carbs make great trout line anchors. Ditch that and put a good qjet on it, performer intake and a decent RV cam and a set of headers and you will get the same power for a fraction of the cost.


Sent from an old rotary telephone.

LMAO but its true. Ever since I swapped out my Qjet for an Edelbrock the engine has no balls. I have tuned the crap out of it too. And Im still wondering about changing rods and jets again! It never ends with that Eddy carb! It wont hold the idle settings and its less then a year old. There is nothing wrong with it except for its design. Im gonna swap the Edelbrock out for a Street Demon #1901.

 

[MadOgre]

If you do a compression test and it comes out good, Then just go get pro comps 12-300-4/12-300-2 full cam kit. $400 and get a better carb $400. There its done and will haul ass for $800. The cam is designed for stock heads and pistons and will definitely be the best upgrade for $s The full kit will replace all the questionable things in your top end, except for the valves them selves.

This all depends on the compression though ??? Get a compression tester and we will walk you through it

 

[MadOgre]

Maybe you could think about doing the motor in stages ? Do the cam and at the same time take the heads to have a machine shop clean them up and fix any thing that needs fixing(A good going through) You will have new springs in the full kit. New lifters and pushrods too.

Then save some money to buy or build a solid short block (Engine with out heads. Cam is optional)

Then put your good top end (Heads and Cam) onto your new short block.

Then after that you could put some Nice Dart SS heads on


Space it all out and you can do each Part of a build $1500 or less every year or 6 months.

I put a new engine in 8 years ago and it still has less then 50,000 KM on it. so spacing things out every year shouldn't be too much of a problem unless you are mileage ing it out every day!

 

[MadOgre]

I personally don't see crate motors being a economically viable option unless

:1 you don't have a clue about anything to do with anything about a motor. In which case you will have to pay to have it installed or have a knowledgeable friend or family member help you.

:2 There is absolutely nothing of any value in your old parts engine. Every engine needs a good core (block) Even then though, a used or previously rebuilt engine will offer much better $ economics

:3 You have lots of $ and just want that peace of mind that every component in your engine is brand spanking new. Usually because you are afraid of having to fix something. Or you don't really understand how an engine is properly rebuilt. A new engine doesn't necessarily fix that issue either though! Yes you get a warranty. But that always has clauses and the down time associated with it.


Check around different machine shops locally, you will probably find a shop that will sell you a rebuilt Long block with the cam of your choice (with in reason) for $1200-$1600 U.S. funds. These engines work well as they have checked all the parts for cracks and wear and is machined to be with in acceptable tolerances. Just need to find a reputable shop. And they all come with warranty too!

The crate motors are not cheap and if they are its because they have cheap new parts in them! So beware!

 

[MadOgre]

Just don't rush your decision process. The best decisions are always well thought out!

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

...142-148psi dry comp...

This all depends on the compression though ??? Get a compression tester and we will walk you through it

I "think" this may be the results from a compression test he has done already. If it is, cam kit and figure out the carb, and call it good for now.


All this talk makes me want to do more in depth stuff to my 400.

 

[MadOgre]

Yeppers

 

[Skweegle89]

LMAO but its true. Ever since I swapped out my Qjet for an Edelbrock the engine has no balls. I have tuned the crap out of it too. And Im still wondering about changing rods and jets again! It never ends with that Eddy carb! It wont hold the idle settings and its less then a year old. There is nothing wrong with it except for its design. Im gonna swap the Edelbrock out for a Street Demon #1901.

I hear ya. I used to think my old motor was pretty stout, then I put a qjet on it and that thing screamed. After I pulled it noticed that it had 30 over flat tops and a giant cam in it and figured out why. I almost bought a holly truck avenger and decided on a qjet and never looked back.


Sent from an old rotary telephone.

 

[73 C10]

Just don't rush your decision process. The best decisions are always well thought out!

OK. Your talking like what I thought I wanted to do, but with the specifics I needed. Thanks.

If I give this to my son someday will it handle a little Nitrous. The kids into that. Would it change the cam needed?

My thoughts after listening to you guys are to grab the cam mentioned 12-300-4. I see it at Summit. I see kits.

What's the difference between it and the 12-300-2? I don't see it. I just put a double roller chain and sprocket set in, so I see they have three size kits.

What if I just get the cam a lifter (small) kit?

What if I just swap the heads now? Then I don't need the springs in the bigger kit right?

If I can get this figured out I order the cam today. I need some 2 deg. axle wedges for the pinion angle anyway and with the cam the shipping will be free.

What head options are there for this build? $$$ Dart, or built Vortec? I'd like to get one set and be done with them. It would be nice if what ever they are the would swap nicely onto the next block someday. Maybe a Gen 1 short block with mechanical fuel pump and roller cam previsions.

Are there other budget minded heads that are any good? I see Edlebrock heads on the shelf at the Irish.

 

[73 C10]

I hear ya. I used to think my old motor was pretty stout, then I put a qjet on it and that thing screamed. After I pulled it noticed that it had 30 over flat tops and a giant cam in it and figured out why. I almost bought a holly truck avenger and decided on a qjet and never looked back.

Tell me about the qjet, qjunk I've heard. Just heard. What's the story. How many cfm options. What do I need to know to get a good price? How much?

 

[73 C10]

I think what we have talked about takes care of any weak springs, any bad valves, leaky valve seals and carb issues I may have.

And should add some hp.

Sounds good.

And after all that and the "murmur" remains, It must be the distributor. I can pull one at the junk yard if that's the case.

 

[Skweegle89]

Tell me about the qjet, qjunk I've heard. Just heard. What's the story. How many cfm options. What do I need to know to get a good price? How much?

The only people that don't like them are the ones that don't know anything about them. @350runner and @Quadrajet Power can tell you anything you would ever want to know about the qjet. The latter is a member here that builds qjets for a living and is who built mine.


Sent from an old rotary telephone.

 

[MadOgre]

IM in the process of building my Qjet too. The whole problem with the Qjet is that the fuel well plugs tend to leak and causes all kinds of grief. BUT the Qjet is an amazing carburetor if the fuel well plugs are sealed up properly. The only real way to seal them is to pull the plugs, tap the opening and epoxy set screws in place of the plugs. Then the throttle shaft bores usually need to have bushings installed.

But remember these are 30-40 year old carburetors! And freakin awesome if you have a good one!

The Holley Street Demon #1900/1901 is a new carb that was developed 3 years ago and incorporates a good blend between the Qjet and the Edelbrock carbs. Its the best of both worlds. And a little cheaper then a rebuilt Qjet.

I would almost suggest this Holley over the Qjet just because it is a lot simpler and will still perform very well. And will be a lot easier to tune to your specific engine.