OK, I read back over the whole thing.
One big question mark is the cam. We don't know what it is. For getting off the post, you need torque down low. So one thing to think about is getting a cam kit -- cam, lifters, springs -- and going with either the 12-300-4 or the 12-230-2, for example. You can download Camquest software from Comp Cams and run the numbers on them. I have done this and have the setup numbers for the base 350 engine with 882 heads if you want to plug them in. Let me know. 12-300-4 gets you the most torque you can get with stock lift in that engine, but won't wind out as far on the top. 12-230-2 will get you the same torque, and wind out further on the top, but has more-that-stock lift, which has implications for cam and valvetrain longevity.
The carb shouldn't whistle. It's likely either the base gasket or the airhorn gasket. Check torque on mounting nuts and on the eight screws on the top of the Eddy to make sure they haven't loosened up. Replace the gaskets if the whistle hasn't gone away; they're cheap enough. Make sure the base gasket is a thick one -- the Edelbrock does not like to run hot.
What are you running for an air cleaner setup? Is your performance dependent on outside air temperature? That is, best at 80 degrees or so, and worse when colder or hotter?
Get the NGK or Ballenger AF/R meter, and have the local muffler/exhaust guy weld the bung for the sensor into the exhaust pipe somewhere close behind the header joint on the driver's side. Run the numbers and see what your mixture is doing.
The MSD wires are 505 ohms, the Taylors are 350. Just saying.
Switch to ACD R45TS or Autolite 24 at 0.045" gap. Again, cheap enough.
That's where I would start, anyway. Probably from the bottom and going up this list. Well under $1000.
And don't go and buy another carb. You're pissing your money away. The Eddy should be able to make it run fine. If it isn't, you have another problem, and a new carb won't fix that.
