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Nice.
Know any racing friends? You can ask them they tend to be distributed through the country and there is no way they all travel long distances to find one. And then of course, shops that do builds or work on heavy equipment and machinery. Like construction and agriculture have a lot of PTO and driveshafts. I’d think they have the tools and wizzardry.off-roading friends too.
If your K10 shaft is from a 10 bolt truck, Precision #447 should be the conversion joint you need. I burned through a couple conversion joints, but that was due to my rear yoke being pinched. It required the shop press to get both caps in far enough to install the clips and the joint was always tight.
Conversion U-joints have one style of joint on one side and another style on the other side. For instance, one pair might be 1310 while the other set is 1350.
Fwiw, my DS was a bit on the short side from the factory. It seems GM used what was close enough for it, but not optimal with a little over 3” of yoke exposed.
I have a buddy preparing to part out a square plow truck with a huge hole in the frame, and a couple previous frame patches. I checked the driveshafts in that truck yesterday evening, and the other truck he's going to move the plow to. Both driveshafts were like yours, Frankenchevy, with around 3" of yoke exposed. The shafts fit nice and snug in the transfer cases though.
Shooooweee, that's a lot of money.
Late to the party and didn't read through all the replies.. So maybe it's mentioned, but have had a couple driveshafts built from scratch and the shop has always said vehicle on the ground at ride height, then bottom the slip yoke out in the transmission or transfer case and measure center to center of the u-joint cups on the yokes and subtract one inch off the measurement. Buddy just replaced the two piece with carrier bearing driveshaft on his '78 GMC 1 ton with a one piece that the same shop made for him. except this had Fixed yokes on both ends, so they put the slip in the shaft, all new assembly ready to bolt in was about $650 out the door. They told him to measure center to center of the u joint cups on the yokes and they'd take it from there. Also, I had a friend that had a custom shaft made by a company in California and in that instance I know they told him measure from the output seal to the center of the u-joint on the yoke on the rear axle and it turned out just as fine. That was a custom aluminum driveshaft for a crew cab long box behind a duramax with a hand shaker and they assured him it would hold up to the power he's making, and so far so good! Lol My experience is the former example though.
That shouldn't be the case. The only inside U-joint universals I have ever seen on a squarebody are the double cardan universals. All chevrolet rear driveshafts I have ever seen use outside snap rings. A 14BFF should be a 1410 yoke. My stock K25 rear driveshaft that was a slipyoke into a NP205 and with a 14BFF had 1410's on both the axle yolk and the slip joint yoke side.
