Compressor fittings dont fit

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chipmaker

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So I just had this great 383 built and installed. My truck has factory air. The tall valve covers are in the way of the AC lines. I know I could serpentine or flip the compressor and alternator. Is there a fix that will allow me to keep everything where it is and make it possible for the AC connections? Maybe a bracket the moves the compressor up a little?
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Craig 85

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chipmaker

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Craig 85

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chipmaker

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Thanks for all the help and info. Im going to try to do this without my mechanics, they would rather me buy the full Antique Air system. But I am broke, and need AC. Ill call Antique AC later this week...
 

Craig 85

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I replaced all the A/C myself. I only had the A/C shop make up the hoses and charge the system.

I personally like the factory A/C systems better. I had 2 aftermarket systems in the early 90's on a couple of vehicles. The main thing I don't like about them is the blower is inside the passenger compartment.
 

chipmaker

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I replaced all the A/C myself. I only had the A/C shop make up the hoses and charge the system.

I personally like the factory A/C systems better. I had 2 aftermarket systems in the early 90's on a couple of vehicles. The main thing I don't like about them is the blower is inside the passenger compartment.

But the Sanden compressor works better than the stock one?
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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If I may jump in, it depends whether you have an R4 “pancake” or A6 (longer) compressor.

The perimeter-design, radial R4 is an inferior design to just about anything: noisy, less efficient, poorly compatible with rebuilding due to how it wears internally. New units, if you get a good one, are okay with the correct oil type/amount and refrigerant charge, blue o-tube, and factory condenser. They would do better with a parallel flow condenser, but I personally prefer the ease of cleaning the factory condensers with the tradeoff of slightly inferior efficiency. I’ve got a Four Seasons/Compressor Works R4 that practically blows ice chunks at you. Delphi-Harrison liquidated their R4 tooling to them so there’s only one source of new units AFAIK, and sometimes they’re lemons out of the box. The rebuilds are frequently lemons out of the box. When my current R4s go, I’m anticipating converting to v-belt Sandens. I’m assuming this is what you currently have. If it’s the factory Harrison unit, I’d also wager it’s at the end of its life even if the miles are low.

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The A6 is a swashplate, axial design, which the credit goes to Frigidaire on that one, I believe. They’re big and heavy, and they’re more expensive to rebuild. A rebuilt one costs appx. twice a new R4, and a new one costs thrice the same new R4. They don’t have the design faults that make them repel rebuild in the same way that R4s do, and I’d say they’re comparable to the Sandens since they share the same basic design, although I think Sanden makes both swashplate and wobble plate models, and I haven’t done my homework to know which ones are which. I’d like to know what extensive users of both say about how they compare.

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As a footnote, I’ll add that I’ve posited converting to a Harrison V5 when that unfortunate and likely very hot day comes. It’s also an axial, swashplate compressor, but it’s variable displacement, almost as compact as an R4, and relatively cheap to purchase new production. The real world benefit to the variable displacement part translates to no compressor clutch cycling. It’s either on or off, and the load is gentler on an engine. Cool design IMO.

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Craig 85

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But the Sanden compressor works better than the stock one?

I think so. Also the Sanden is about half the weight and uses less horsepower than an A6. You can see the temp my truck is running at.

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Backfoot100

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Reviving this thread.
I'm looking for some assistance and hopefully part numbers guys have used to upgrade to a Sanden compressor.

My original R4 was converted to 134 and lasted a few months before seizing on me. I decided to try replacing it with a new R4 vs. Sanden upgrade. I got one from ORielly with a new accumulator and orifice tube, had the system cleaned, evacuated and charged. It worked awesome for about 9 months and now the compressor is starting to make noise and its barely cooling at all. I know everything I researched said that the R4 is pretty much a crap shoot as to how reliable it is but thought I would give it one shot.

I said if this compressor takes a **** I was upgrading to a Sanden. Well, it looks like that's the case.

I'm keeping the system stock other than a new bracket, hoses and a V-belt Sanden. Im looking for any part numbers or recommendations you guys may have successfully used for your conversions.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

Backfoot100

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Damn guys, I found some info of what I'm looking for under the interior AC forum.
I tied doing searches before posting but obviously was doing it wrong.
Let me do some more reading now and I'll followup later if needed.
 

chipmaker

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You may want to start a new thread. I ended up all factory AC with 90 degree connections.
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1987 GMC Jimmy

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Has anyone tried the Dirty Dingo compressor adapter? It’s supposed to allow you to use the factory R4 bracketry for a Sanden 508.
 

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Are BOP ac compressors interchangeable with the SBC compressors? Just mounts?
 

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I think so. Also the Sanden is about half the weight and uses less horsepower than an A6. You can see the temp my truck is running at.

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That's better than many factory systems in newer vehicles, even ones running a sanden.

Are BOP ac compressors interchangeable with the SBC compressors? Just mounts?

Normally, yes.
 

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