Clutch Linkage

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Jxhcob

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I recently replaced the clutch assembly in my 80 c20 however the clutch pedal feels out of wack. It also shakes... like a lot. I believe that it's due to the pushrod that pushes the clutch fork is not adjusted properly. Does anyone know the proper way to adjust the linkage? thank you for your help.
 

Powerhouse Ranch

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I recently replaced the clutch assembly in my 80 c20 however the clutch pedal feels out of wack. It also shakes... like a lot. I believe that it's due to the pushrod that pushes the clutch fork is not adjusted properly. Does anyone know the proper way to adjust the linkage? thank you for your help.

do you have the huge return spring under the dash on the brake/clutch housing?
 

Powerhouse Ranch

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Ya I have both the one that goes from the fork to the frame and the one that goes from the bellcrank to the fork.

yes the undercarriage ones, but do you have the in-cab one?

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Powerhouse Ranch

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Ya, I have the one under the dash too

okay probably is in your linkage/fork. i'm trying to figure out my adjustment myself.
 

Jxhcob

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okay probably is in your linkage/fork. i'm trying to figure out my adjustment myself.
Ya so it looks like the fork is violently shaking the entire time I just replaced the clutch, throw out, etc the only think I can think of is the fork itself and or the pivot it attaches to is worn.

Edit: will driving with it like this cause damage to anything else as this is my only vehicle and I’m still driving it to work.
 

AuroraGirl

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[Powerhouse Ranch]

Ah man, not this again!
Hahaha, jk.
Yes this is happening look what you done. Now all the 80 3/4 tons are coming from the woodwork. First me and a k25 now this guy with a c20.
When will it end? I hope never
 

AuroraGirl

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okay probably is in your linkage/fork. i'm trying to figure out my adjustment myself.
The sleeve of the zbar has a grease fitting. Mine is bent but it doesn’t vibrate. But if the metal on metal hinge essentially is worn I could see nice new clutch and components being a little more grabby and thus the feeling is more chop chop on break in because the only part with play is gonna be directly linked to your pedal with the rod. The fork is easy to us pics lol

the clutch pedal could be adjusted to as it should be. The more the full travel actuated the clutch the less severe transfer of vibrations since you can smoothly actuate the clutch on a wider range slower etc

but if your trans mount (transfer case for us) and motor mounts have any slop, i could see the same without a worn z bar even. The important thing to remember is you are mechanically linked to your literal rotating assembly with the pedal, even tho it’s not touching it directly. Anything that may amplify or resonate or best accentuate any harshness is doing so through those linkages and mounts and parts. Springs help dampen that and bushings or inserts on pedals etc help isolate

rubber grommet and boots slightly do that but help seal the noise entry spots and help keep contaminated parts from then wearing quicker etc where applicable
 

AuroraGirl

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Ya so it looks like the fork is violently shaking the entire time I just replaced the clutch, throw out, etc the only think I can think of is the fork itself and or the pivot it attaches to is worn.

Edit: will driving with it like this cause damage to anything else as this is my only vehicle and I’m still driving it to work.
Is your fork bent

and can you SHOW US
 

Powerhouse Ranch

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Is your fork bent

and can you SHOW US

haha yes it is important to show us! and hey 80 3/4 tons are cool! helps me figure out quicker who will be in my elite '80 club :)
 

AuroraGirl

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haha yes it is important to show us! and hey 80 3/4 tons are cool! helps me figure out quicker who will be in my elite '80 club :)
Clearly I am in tngat club because of the headache rqck the bumper and the other bumper. And the plow hookup. And the spare tire carrier. And the pin trailer spring thing for making pulling a simple trailer with a simple pin instead of a ball or clamshell less Bucky and jerking. All of which I neither made or installed. But the hundreds of pounds of static steeel combined with my space age weight reduction makes for a net zero weight change. Probably.

snd who can hate my pattenened sand spreader that’s self powered and functions on the entire surface of the 8ft box.
I also have this cool hidden gas filler to keep uh… siphonera.. from taking gas without looking like they are also high Messing with the wheel tub while holding a gas can.

I unfortunately stepped down from the welding clamp to positive post for plow hydraulic hookup and screw driver ignition to the Boring ways but I’ve always been a rebel


I also have a hipster hood since it’s from a 77, our 80 have a fancy hood but I went counter culture

don’t ask why but I have a 80 and a pre 76 door on my truck and it’s clearly painted to the same but one has the longer shaft and the non locking smoker window and the other don’t

You wouldn’t understand!


Sierra grande.

at one time.


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60s Ford camper special mirrors
 

hoagster

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Your asking questions for a possible fix, and others have responded with valid questions. There could be several answers to your problem. But @AuroraGirl we can help you if you investigate and make sure things are connected right and the best way to answer you is if you provide visual.

Are the bushings in the Clutch/brake assembly new or original. Can you move the pedals side to side? Is the clutch linkage rod new, worn? Does the Z bar have all of it's components? Is it worn at the linkage rod connection? Are all the springs attached correctly and new or old? Can you manipulate the linkage rod with out moving stuff? I provided a couple pic's and don't mimick my spring locatons on the Zbar they are probably not right, just hooked up!

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