Click no start

[Rusty Shackleford]

I have a 1988 R20 3/4 ton crew cab pick up. Used it for a few small trips a couple of weeks ago. After trying to start after the third stop it wouldn't start - just a repeated clicking noise from the starter. After a friend tapped the starter, it started. Got it parked, tried to start it. Started 4 times. Fifth start try, back to the clicks. The battery is 9 months old and had it checked. Result: good. Took the starter out (starter is 2 years+ old) had it checked. Result: good. Checked the positive battery cable. Result: good. Negative cable replaced 6 months ago. Bench tested the starter with a battery. Result: did everything it was supposed to. Bench tested with the connections from the truck. Result: did everything it was supposed to. Motor spun, tested the solenoid - moved in and out like it should. Tried a connection form the ignition switch wire to the starter (with the starter out of the truck) Did what it was supposed to. I'm thinking that perhaps the ground from the motor to the chassis is not making a good connection. When I tested it with the truck battery, I used jumper cables and ground right to the starter. I lost daylight so the next check will be to check the truck ground and to use a cable to ground the starter (while installed) to see if I can get more than clicks. Are there any other things I could try? Any information greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I can almost guarantee it will be a connection issue. Clean up the battery cable ends, and other grounds, like the ground from the firewall to the back of the passenger side head.

 

[Scott91370]

Could be a loose wire or if tapping the starter worked it could be time for a new one. Mine would only click (solenoid engaging) and I had to swap it.

 

[SirRobyn0]

I'm in the starter camp. Yes, these trucks are known for connection issues, but the fact that hitting the starter got it to start. You gotta keep in mind if the starter is being tested on the bench it's a no load test, a fail means it's bad but just because it'll free spin doesn't mean it'll crank the engine. Also even if tested in the truck, if it's got a bad spot in the windings and doesn't stop at that point you might get repeated passing tests even though there is a problem. I'd put a starter in it.

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

I'm in the starter camp. Yes, these trucks are known for connection issues, but the fact that hitting the starter got it to start. You gotta keep in mind if the starter is being tested on the bench it's a no load test, a fail means it's bad but just because it'll free spin doesn't mean it'll crank the engine. Also even if tested in the truck, if it's got a bad spot in the windings and doesn't stop at that point you might get repeated passing tests even though there is a problem. I'd put a starter in it.

Totally agree with SirRobyn0.
Definitely sounds like the starter is on it's way out.
Start with checking your ground wires and cables, because that's a cheap easy fix, but that's probably not it.
Mine just started doing that recently on my blazer. If you keep hitting the key, keep bumping it, sometimes itll go. It hits a bad spot now and then.

 

[Raider L]

Boy, doesn't this sound familiar??!! Didn't we just spend a week talking about the same thing??!!

Yeah, I'm just picking on ya'll. I agree with @SirRobyn0, and @AyWoSch Motors....starter! Because I've had it happen to me. As long as it didn't land on that bad spot it started like new. But then the next time I got in the truck...click! It mostly happend with stock starters. Once I got my mini starter all that stuff stopped.

 

[Raider L]

I'll tell you something else that causes it to and that's a bad place on the starter shaft bearing gets a flat spot on it. When that happens it causes the shaft to shift and binds the solenoid.

 

[Rusty Shackleford]

Once the rains stopped, I was able to install the starter. Checked and cleaned the grounds and the mounting surface on the block. I put a jumper from the battery right to the starter housing. No more click - engine spun and started. Repeated without the jumper and success. Thanks for your input.

 

[midwest]

Sorry for digging up an old post but wanted some input from the pro's. I had the same thing in my 86, click no start. I replaced the starter and was talking to the guy at Oreilly. He didn't even test it because he said if the solenoid is bad that won't show up on the test they do. I put the new starter on and so far so good. I was kind of confused when he said if the starter itself is good but the solenoid portion is bad this will never show up on their tests... Is this correct? Just curious.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Sorry for digging up an old post but wanted some input from the pro's. I had the same thing in my 86, click no start. I replaced the starter and was talking to the guy at Oreilly. He didn't even test it because he said if the solenoid is bad that won't show up on the test they do. I put the new starter on and so far so good. I was kind of confused when he said if the starter itself is good but the solenoid portion is bad this will never show up on their tests... Is this correct? Just curious.

that CAN be true. The solenoid is the smaller piece thats attached to the larger unit as a whole. The solenoid is what directs battery positive to the starter , your key switch wiring activates that part on the starter.

 

[newguy11]

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