Changing brake fluid

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texasmike

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I haven't had the top off of my brake fluid reservoir for four years so I decided to take a look. The level was fine but the fluid is very dark. It would probably be a good idea to change it so can anyone tell me the best way to do that without getting air into the system? Thanks for your time, and I don't take it lightly because I realize it's one of the most important items we have to offer/sell.
 

Ricko1966

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If you are creative you can make a brake fluid exchanger out of a garden sprayer. Brb with details and pics. One is pressure one is vacuum. I've used both at work. I like pressure better. Made one for home use I'll find a pic. Home made a piece of scrap aluminum plate with rubber glued to it some all thread a fitting and a 4 dollar garden sprayer. Internet search motive products 0105 and 1105. If you better pics of my home brewed rig. Let me know.
 

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75gmck25

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If you have a newer design brake booster with a screw-on reservoir cap, it’s easy to connect a pressure bleeder and just bleed each wheel, one at a time. The bleeder both provides pressure and ensures you don’t introduce any air.
Older trucks like mine have a flat brake booster cap with a wire bail retainer, so you have to use a different type of adapter to seal to the booster.

You can do the same bleeding process without the pressure tank if you have a helper who makes sure the reservoir stays full and you don’t pull in any air.
For the manual process, take it easy with the brake pedal when you are bleeding, and just press the pedal about 1/3-1/2 way down to get pressure. There is a temptation to press the pedal until it goes to the floor, but this pushes the piston way beyond its normal travel. Old piston seals don’t like that abuse.
 
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Redfish

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Mitey Vac. I love this thing. I wasted my money on a cheap Harbor Freight pneumatic brake bleeder and ended up buying the Mitey Vac to replace it. It works, it's clean, and you don't need two people to bleed the brakes.

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I also have one of the Mitey Vacs. Should I suck the reservoir dry, refill it and then start with the right rear wheel, then the left rear , with left front last, making sure to refill after each wheel.
 

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I still do it the old fashioned way. Have someone pump the brakes up while I bleed from the furthest brake first, and working my way to the closest brake to the master cylinder.
Occasionally refilling the master before it gets low.

I like to use a clear hose on the bleeder nipple to more easily see the air bubbles.
 

Craig Nedrow

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I use the same exact method as WFO, except that I use a mighty vac, as most of the time I am alone in the shop. Do the longest run first and progress to the shortest, usually RR,LR,RF,LF. Don't run it dry, or you get to do it again.
 

Bodine1

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If you don't want to use a pump,you can take a small clear plastic sprite bottle and pour brake fluid at least 35% up from the bottom and drill a hole through the top of the cap and run a clear plastic hose through the top and attach the other end to the bleeder screw so the hose will fit snug. Break the bleeder screws first then make sure you have fluid in the master cylinder. Have someone pump your brakes while the bleeder screw is loose and when the old fluid goes into the bottle it will soon get clear and bubbles gone. Tighten the bleeder screw and repeat to the other 3 wheels. Now you have a very clean brake system. Just remember to take most of the old fluid out the master cylinder 1st and fill back with new everytime you switch to each wheel. It seems like a lot but it's quick and easy..
 

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Grit dog

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Do not suck it dry you could take the majority of fluid out of the reservoir then keep pulling fluid and adding fluid until you're drawing clean fluid then move to the next wheel..
Respectfully, vacuuming all the fluid out of the MC reservior and then refilling (before pumping the brakes) is not an issue and will not introduce air into the system.
Done it regularly and dozens of times,
Including wiping the reservoir totally dry and cleaning out the rust or crud before refilling.
Pursuant to my hillbilly brake fluid flush I’ll explain in my next post.
 

Grit dog

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So all of these methods work and some “easier” than others.
Pretty much everyone who isn’t car saavy totally neglects brake fluid.
And as such it may, can, will and does last a long time and different conditions affect how much moisture it absorbs.
That said, the importance of good brake fluid is most important to me for prolonging the life of the mechanical components of the system.
One thing brake flushing or bleeding does not do is get all the fluid directly out of the calipers as the bleeders are on top so you’re really just mixing old with new in the calipers and diluting the old fluid.
If you take an approximation of 1/3 of the fluid in the system is in the MC, 1/3 in the lines and 1/3 in the calipers or cylinders, even the best brake flush is directly replacing 2/3 and diluting 1/3 of the old to an unknown extent.
Here’s the best part. Based on the dilution theory which is totally valid. Ask any qualified transmission builder, they’ll support the same theory with atf.
Bleeding and flushing brakes sucks and it’s time consuming. Yes necessary after repairs or in extreme situations. But in most normal scenarios, just keep diluting the old fluid until you get a high % of new fluid in the system. You’ll use 2-3x as much fluid but it will be quicker, cleaner and far less effort.
Assuming the brake fluid isn’t just totally trashed, or you’re doing major brake surgery for other reasons, just do the following.
Suck the MC dry, refill with new fluid. That takes 2 min with a vacuum extractor or 5 min with a turkey baster.
Drive the vehicle a day, a week, 100 miles, whatever until the fluid has mixed in the system completely. It will mix but just a little at a time with every pedal press and release.
Next week, the new fluid will look dark. Because it mixed.
Repeat this sequence 3,4,5x whatever until the MC fluid you’re removing looks markedly cleaner.
wise old mechanic told me this 30+ years ago.
It’s just too simple.
If a vehicle already has newer/decent fluid in it, I just do this every or every other oil change. If it’s old outdated worn out fluid I’ll make a dedicate effort to do it every tank of gas or 2 until it’s cleaned up.
I’ll gladly spend an extra $20/vehicle for extra fluid to do it this way than spend half a day wrenching to achieve the same goal.
Evidence, 20 year old surge brakes on a boat trailer. No brake issues by doing this once every year when I winterize.
50 year old Jeep I’ve owned for 20, MC been leaking for about 5 now, have the new one waiting to go on if it fails, been doing this once a year(ish) and it’ll stop on a dime and give you 9 cents back. And the 4 wheel drums are not sticky or less operable with possibly original wheel cylinders.
Old diesel pickup. Ran it for almost 15 years, 200k miles, never touched anything but brake pads. Would do the hillbilly flush most every oil change.
Couple of 20 year old snowmobiles. Get hillbilly flush once a year. No issues.
I’m sure a few will discount this method as being improper or incomplete. Feel free to spend your Saturday jacking up your car and making a mess and getting nothing else done. It will certainly be done correctly and provide a safe brake system.
I’ll take the 2 minutes and $4 worth of brake fluid at every oil change.
 

Grit dog

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^Not discounting the validity of a proper brake flush btw and sometimes it’s necessary.
But in normal scenarios, it’s not necessary if you just keep up with adding fresh fluid periodically.
 

HotRodPC

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I still do it the old fashioned way. Have someone pump the brakes up while I bleed from the furthest brake first, and working my way to the closest brake to the master cylinder.
Occasionally refilling the master before it gets low.

I like to use a clear hose on the bleeder nipple to more easily see the air bubbles.
Pump it !!! Hold It !!! Pump It !!! Hold It !!! Pump it ....
 
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