Carb air cleaners, thermacs, and spacers

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AuroraGirl

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Hay that's true, great tip!

:waytogo:
was that since there was plenty of upward room in the dog house so they could route hoses underneath? I seem to recall getting to PCV valve and breather was a BITCH on one and the air cleaner stuck out to me because of sitting high and things running by it
 

AuroraGirl

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This is the best example i could find trying to locate examples of the fresh air duct. This design was only made in one size, yes?
I have a 78 air cleaner going in a 1980 with the passenger duct. I dont think the wide snout or opening in core support is different or has changes, so i should be safe finding any new assemblies.

Anyone see any less than 50 bucks that are new or not crappy? Im only finding broken used ones or 80 dollar or so new ones..
And i will be looking for that riser tube for the manifolds as well but i think i can source the heat stove on my property and maybe the tube but maybe not. so tube name or part number?
 

Rusty Nail

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Unknown...name.
Heat riser tube sound good heehee. Used to be sold with a weird green box in the HELP! section.

I don't know if the inlet tube changed much or not but I sure as heck haven't found one cheap enough to buy either. Lol :(

I'd imagine the connecting end could vary given differing air cleaner assemblies but again that is unknown to me ATM.

I reckon vans got spacers because their intake manifolds were very short.small.low.tiny. Whatever!

*edit*
on second thought, the core support DID change from squarebody to rounded line in 80-81? Maybe that could mark a difference. :shrug:
 
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Turbo4whl

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This is the best example i could find trying to locate examples of the fresh air duct. This design was only made in one size, yes?......

And i will be looking for that riser tube for the manifolds as well but i think i can source the heat stove on my property and maybe the tube but maybe not. so tube name or part number?

The pipe, is called heat stove pipe. Aftermarket sells flex-able, corrugated aluminum stove pipe. Available in 3 diameters to cover all 70's-80's vehicles.

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Snoots

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I'd go the wider opening any day, less resistance & better flow. Same as a bigger element, the more surface area the better, but you wouldn't notice the difference driving it. The one l used came off a small block and has the smaller snout, l did think of removing the snout and cutting another slot as well, but it will only end up drawing heat from the engine bay. It's neat and tidy & will do for now.


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While nice looking, that has got to be the most restrictive intake I have ever seen on a BBC!
 

SquareRoot

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Edelbrck carburetors suck.

All carburetors suck. If it's not true EFI, not the ****** TBI wannabe, it's a POS. Not every day, just every other day.
 

Rusty Nail

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I'm really digging the cold start ability of the brand new Holley rebuilt 600 I put in the C20.. It's pretty badass and wicked impressive for $200.
80457?

I should make a video. It's awesome.
 

SirRobyn0

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So I got an air cleaner that can take a tall air filter and put my thermac on the passenger side where my fresh air outlet is.. but its got the wide snout and not the tiny stupid one like my others(1 pass, 1 driver drop)
however, I notice I dont sit flush on my 1604 edelbrock because of the distributor. Can I use a spacer on stock cleaner to rise that up without raising my carb? \

And which air cleaner IS best? Wide right?
How do you hook up the thermac? What is the AC sensor thing inside? And one cleaner has an extra sensor in bottom but i dont know what it does. I will likely plug the PCV port unless I can find one that goes where I want rather than rigid factory route. anyone sell a plug or should i leave it open?

Ok so I didn't read through all the posts, but yes using a spacer between the carb and air cleaner housing is fine. I prefer to do that on Edlebrocks because you can still keep the thermac functional, but you will likely need a longer stud for the housing wing nut. The AC thing your talking about should be hooked to temp vacuum switch in the manifold and then to manifold vacuum so the thermac is only closed when it's cold. I would not run a spacer under the carb as it may affect linkage operation, adds one more spot to develop a vacuum leak at and the air cleaner spacer will be easier to install and cheaper.

Wider is better for a filter, as it is less restrictive and will get dirty slower due to more surface area to filter the air.
 

SirRobyn0

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I'm really digging the cold start ability of the brand new Holley rebuilt 600 I put in the C20.. It's pretty badass and wicked impressive for $200.
80457?

I should make a video. It's awesome.

You know I'm not Holley's biggest fan but I looked up that carb and this line in the specs is making me think "Integrated 700R4/200R4 transmission kick down cable mounting" so I've got a 700R4 in my truck and an edlebrock which I'm happy with but Integrated 700R4/200R4 transmission kick down cable mounting is a pretty good selling point as setting up the cable to work properly on the edlebrock is quite the pain, to really make it work right.
 

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Pickles. Always pickles. You should know this by now.
 

AuroraGirl

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Ok so I didn't read through all the posts, but yes using a spacer between the carb and air cleaner housing is fine. I prefer to do that on Edlebrocks because you can still keep the thermac functional, but you will likely need a longer stud for the housing wing nut. The AC thing your talking about should be hooked to temp vacuum switch in the manifold and then to manifold vacuum so the thermac is only closed when it's cold. I would not run a spacer under the carb as it may affect linkage operation, adds one more spot to develop a vacuum leak at and the air cleaner spacer will be easier to install and cheaper.

Wider is better for a filter, as it is less restrictive and will get dirty slower due to more surface area to filter the air.
This temp switch, is it also called a TVS switch? And I'm assuming mounted somewhere in manifold coolant passage(so unused port on thermostat housing would suffice?)
 

SirRobyn0

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This temp switch, is it also called a TVS switch? And I'm assuming mounted somewhere in manifold coolant passage(so unused port on thermostat housing would suffice?)
You should double check that with the vacuum diagram, because there is or should be a TVS for the EGR valve. Many trucks had two, this one should apply vacuum when it's cold and then turn off the vacuum when it warms up, which is the opposite way the switch works for the EGR valve. My truck has one in the manifold and another one in thermostat housing.
 

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