Can anyone tell me what this is??

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Turbo4whl

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...brakes in which you've installed it --- front or rear.
This control can be installed on a dual master cylinder. On a GM it needs to be installed in the rear brake circuit only.

@PrairieDrifter I would rather have this type controller as opposed to an electronic POS that can burn out/fail without warning.
 

PrairieDrifter

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You're 100% wrong.

The small cylinder-piston in the controller takes fluid to make it travel. This is not the same as brake wear --- it's totally out of that realm --- totally.

If it takes fluid, it decreases the ultimate volume sent to whatever side of the brakes in which you've installed it --- front or rear.

I know. I was a Brake/Lamp/Smog Inspector and I had tried that same hydraulic controller on one of my dual-brake systems and it just did not work.

Believe what you want - but don't go popping off with theories that might get someone else injured or killed or kill a vehicle in the opposing lane.

Any time you take fluid to move that device - it takes from that system and cuts the flow to (usually the rear) brakes.

Stop being ignorant --- you cannot use this brake controller on anything but a single-system master cylinder - and even then it can feel different because of the change in fluid to the brakes.

These were originally designed to be used on the (much) older single-piston master cylinder systems in cars and trucks that were crushed and returned as Toyotas long before you were born.
Crazy the thousands of squares and the likes, with these controllers and I've never heard anything about it as well as they sold them forever. 400,000+ mile square with a hydraulic controller that towed its whole life.

The displacement is minuscule in comparison to normal brake application and wear, you will not convince me otherwise. It's hydraulics, I'm not getting anyone killed. And I will be installing one on all my other squares as well. They work great.

Edit- I read through pretty fast on that rambling mess. I just read "i was an inspector. I know." No facts. So you read from your little government pamphlet lol? And im the ignorant one?

You already lost when you said "it's not the same as brake wear" it most definitely is. It's fluid displacement gramps. Hydraulics. Adding capacity to the system doesn't decrease pressure.

A caliper is just a fluid chamber. Probably 20x larger than the piston in the controller. If you can't understand that, we are done here. It's a wives tale.

Also I'm not 19 grandpa. You're gonna have to go to the nursing home soon!
 
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PrairieDrifter

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This control can be installed on a dual master cylinder. On a GM it needs to be installed in the rear brake circuit only.

@PrairieDrifter I would rather have this type controller as opposed to an electronic POS that can burn out/fail without warning.
100% agree. My grandpas 79 has 420 some thousand miles on it and it's towed its entire life. Bumper pull with a hydraulic controller. It still works and the truck has fantastic brakes.

****! My suburban had a hydraulic controller in it when I got it! I don't tow like that with it, to need it on that truck.

I've never ever heard anything about not being able to use a hydraulic controller.

Loaded down with a trailer in the 80's. He hauled the dirt track car all over the north here. Hauled cows, it was his work horse.
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i was going to chime in because that was most definitely not correct

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but you could easily exceed with something else or something not working right oru sing too much tubing. heres a gmt400 warning as well, id assume the masters are the same in their early era but they now have rear ABS those years
 

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i was going to chime in because that was most definitely not correct

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but you could easily exceed with something else or something not working right oru sing too much tubing. heres a gmt400 warning as well, id assume the masters are the same in their early era but they now have rear ABS those years

And there we have it. Facts. A hydraulically activated brake controller of appropriate size is perfectly fine to run on a truck with a dual circuit brake system.

That 0.02 CI spec actually rings a bell too. I believe it's even listed in the owner's manual for our trucks.
 

Turbo4whl

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No facts. So you read from your little government pamphlet lol?
Right, no one learns theory any more.
It's fluid displacement gramps. Hydraulics. Adding capacity to the system doesn't decrease pressure.
Law of physics "Pressure applied on a confined fluid is equal and undiminished in every direction within the container"

Okay class, for your homework assignment, who's law of physics is the statement?
 

AuroraGirl

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Good times! Pascal
I have to get good with Pascals because the tech 2 readout will always be in Kilopascals instead of PSI, despite all other measurements read out in US customary (Fahreinheight for example)
I think some other values WILL read in inches of mercury, just ones not important for engine running (MAP sensor, baro type values lol)
So knowing what makes sense vs not in this elevation for key on no start and engine idling or under part throttle etc
 

PrairieDrifter

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And there we have it. Facts. A hydraulically activated brake controller of appropriate size is perfectly fine to run on a truck with a dual circuit brake system.

That 0.02 CI spec actually rings a bell too. I believe it's even listed in the owner's manual for our trucks.
From what I'm understanding this only saying this because of the anti loc brakes? Stopping distance is affected because the anti loc brakes won't function as designed.

I hate anti loc brakes anyways lol
 

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