Camshaft input from experience.

[BillK]

If it was me I would put the Howards in it but then again I dont care how it sounds, only in how it runs. Realistically 99% of street engines never even see 4500 rpm. Having an rpm range that goes to 6000 is a waste. You will "feel" the lower rpm power gains but you really never "feel" the high rpm.

 

[jasonconaway]

If it was me I would put the Howards in it but then again I dont care how it sounds, only in how it runs. Realistically 99% of street engines never even see 4500 rpm. Having an rpm range that goes to 6000 is a waste. You will "feel" the lower rpm power gains but you really never "feel" the high rpm.

Agreed. I’m leaning towards the Howard’s


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[82sbshortbed]

I have a new tach that I’m hoping to get out in, today or very soon. I have the Th350 as well. I looked at some gear vs rpm charts and calculators. I wanted to stay close to 2500 as possible. I have 3.42 gears. Not 4.10.


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I was asking Qbuff02 about his 454 with 4.10 gears. Because my 454 with 3.73 gears revs too high on the highway.

 

[QBuff02]

I'm interested in your RPMs at 55 with 4.10 gears. What tires you got? Od transmission?

Reason I ask is I just put 3.73 gears in my truck with th350 and 275/60/15 tires and a 454. 55 mph =2700rpm. It barks the tires when shifting now and burnouts are easily available but, I can't drive it on the highway at 55 for very long. Lol

2,800 rpm @ 60 mph. the speedo is a couple mph off, at least going by those construction zone digital speed limit signs and the ones coming into town, they consistently say 60 at 2,800 on the tach but the speedo is always reading 56-57 mph at the same time. 33" BFG's. TH400 trans.

 

[82sbshortbed]

Don't know how accurate this is but, got this with your numbers @QBuff02 .


https://spicerparts.com/calculators/engine-rpm-calculator

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Real time driving would tell the truth tho.

 

[QBuff02]

Don't know how accurate this is but, got this with your numbers @QBuff02 .


https://spicerparts.com/calculators/engine-rpm-calculator

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Real time driving would tell the truth tho.

But alas, remember that unless you have a lock up converter, 100% coupling isn't attainable through a standard torque converter. Most info I've seen is for a GOOD torque converter to slip somewhere in the 3-5% range above stall speed. And then we get into the question of is the tire truly 33" or is it closer to 32". I did some calculating awhile back and I was basically splitting hairs on whether it was the tires, the converter, maybe the tach was off by just a touch or some combination of all the above because my rpm was always higher than all the calculators. But when you adjust for and add in the slippage factor for a non lock up converter, it's all pretty spot on. I agree with you that real world tells all tales. And I think there's little differences in every driveline. I have a TCI converter and AutoMeter tach so I feel i'm about as good as it gets. Food for conversation?

 

[rich weyand]

You drive torque, you race horsepower. Performance in the 1000-3000 rpm range is what makes a street car fun.

I went the other way, and cammed for torque. With a marine cam and smogger heads, I got 285hp @4000, but 420lb-feet at 2500 rpm.

An idle lope means the engine is on the edge of not running at low rpm. What do you think that does off the line? Nothing, that's what.

With duals, a balance pipe, and Flowmaster 40s, mine sounded OK.

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[cstew47]

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This guy is really good at explaining cam selection. I suggest to watch it. My initial impression is that the cams that you listed are more suited to high performance cars. As truck owners, we are typically more concerned about generating torque at low rpms. I have a comp cam hydro flat tappet with a 218/224, .462 lift, 110LSA. It provides good torque from my 383 with a 600cfm carb. high durations, lifts and LSA's are for high rev HP.

 

[jasonconaway]

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This guy is really good at explaining cam selection. I suggest to watch it. My initial impression is that the cams that you listed are more suited to high performance cars. As truck owners, we are typically more concerned about generating torque at low rpms. I have a comp cam hydro flat tappet with a 218/224, .462 lift, 110LSA. It provides good torque from my 383 with a 600cfm carb. high durations, lifts and LSA's are for high rev HP.

Thanks!


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[jasonconaway]

You drive torque, you race horsepower. Performance in the 1000-3000 rpm range is what makes a street car fun.

I went the other way, and cammed for torque. With a marine cam and smogger heads, I got 285hp @4000, but 420lb-feet at 2500 rpm.

An idle lope means the engine is on the edge of not running at low rpm. What do you think that does off the line? Nothing, that's what.

With duals, a balance pipe, and Flowmaster 40s, mine sounded OK.

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Sounds sweet!


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[MikeB]

A cruiser with a 3.42 axle, tall tires (28-29"?) and and an OD trans with lock-up converter would like something around 215-220 degrees @ .050 lift, and a 112-114 LSA. You don't want to be running down the highway at 2000 RPM or less with a cam like the ones recommended above.

With 10:1 static compression, you'll probably need to run premium gas, even with aluminum heads. I think one step smaller (less duration) with a wider LSA than the recommended Howards cam would work. Like this one:

https://www.howardscams.com/hydraul...kit-1955-1998-chevy-262-400-1200-5500-howards

Harvey Crane once said something like this: "Do your research, select a cam, and then buy the next smaller one." He's also famous for saying something like, "My customers always seem to want a bigger cam than their engines do!"

 

[MikeB]

As truck owners, we are typically more concerned about generating torque at low rpms. I have a comp cam hydro flat tappet with a 218/224, .462 lift, 110LSA. It provides good torque from my 383 with a 600cfm carb. high durations, lifts and LSA's are for high rev HP.

Sounds like a good combo. I'd bet you've had at least a few guys ask why you're not running a 750!

 

[potent rodent]

a street eng dont need a lot of over lap, like stated before it will kill bottom end torque, a 110 lobe center is 2 much for a mild street eng. everybody wants that mean lopy idle but when it comes down to it it kills performance on the street. but its your eng u do what u want we all have to learnfrom our mistakes good luck

 

[illmanners]

I've installed about a dozen of these in engine build-ups almost identical to yours and never had a complaint. Has the idle you are looking for, but more importantly, is a great performer with 650 CFM carb, ignition and headers.
Summit Racing® Camshafts

Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 274/274, Lift .450/.450, Chevy, Small Block. see link for specs and detail. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-1785

Hope that helps,

illmanners

 

[jasonconaway]

I've installed about a dozen of these in engine build-ups almost identical to yours and never had a complaint. Has the idle you are looking for, but more importantly, is a great performer with 650 CFM carb, ignition and headers.
Summit Racing[emoji2400] Camshafts

Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 274/274, Lift .450/.450, Chevy, Small Block. see link for specs and detail. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-1785

Hope that helps,

illmanners

Thanks! I’ll check it out!


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