Cam Swap in Truck W/AC

[legopnuematic]

You did verify the new heads (valves) are actually sealing? Many many aftermarket heads need touch ups at the least...

I did, both with a flashlight and with some carb cleaner. Both checked out good.

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[shiftpro]

I did, both with a flashlight and with some carb cleaner. Both checked out good.

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That was smart... many 'bolt on' heads are not ready yet, and some are way off requiring taking cutters to the seats.

Anyway, this is an interesting thread you have going. It all started with a 'tick'...
Thanks for posting.

 

[legopnuematic]

That was smart... many 'bolt on' heads are not ready yet, and some are way off requiring taking cutters to the seats.

Anyway, this is an interesting thread you have going. It all started with a 'tick'...
Thanks for posting.

Honestly I was expecting to have to break out the grinding compound and the suction cup on a stick and lap them in.

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[legopnuematic]

Started hearing a ticking- first though '****, valve train'. turned out to be a header leak. Looks like I'll be pulling that header off and welding the tubes fully to the flange and smoothing the mating surfaces.

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Another short video of it. Still need to perfect the timing, find if it likes my old curve, mess with the carb, get the exhaust welded together. Picked the perfect time to do this- windchill up to -30 tomorrow.

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[shiftpro]

Honestly I was expecting to have to break out the grinding compound and the suction cup on a stick and lap them in.

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You are frickin 'on it'!!!
Awesome to have you on board.

 

[shiftpro]

Started hearing a ticking- first though '****, valve train'. turned out to be a header leak. Looks like I'll be pulling that header off and welding the tubes fully to the flange and smoothing the mating surfaces.

You must be registered for see images attach

Another short video of it. Still need to perfect the timing, find if it likes my old curve, mess with the carb, get the exhaust welded together. Picked the perfect time to do this- windchill up to -30 tomorrow.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

YES! Ported headers! You are anal and a stickler for details and I think I'm getting a crush on ya... a MAN crush so no worries..
Weld them from the inside if you can... then grind everything down smooth. Don't by any means grind a 'flar' or 'bell' into the opening... this will create a little negative pressure zone and turbulence. Don't want no negative vibes...

Not a very thick flange... maybe you would consider investing in new higher quality headers...?

And count your blessing you haven't just been advised to toss the sm, new heads and all, for a snarly BBlock

 

[legopnuematic]

YES! Ported headers! You are anal and a stickler for details and I think I'm getting a crush on ya... a MAN crush so no worries..
Weld them from the inside if you can... then grind everything down smooth. Don't by any means grind a 'flar' or 'bell' into the opening... this will create a little negative pressure zone and turbulence. Don't want no negative vibes...

Not a very thick flange... maybe you would consider investing in new higher quality headers...?

And count your blessing you haven't just been advised to toss the sm, new heads and all, for a snarly BBlock

Do you have any recommendations for any specific headers? I was looking at Hooker's 2452HKR which would be perfect except for the 2.5" collector, as I already purchased header buddies for a 3" collector (necked down to 2.25"). Around $250 would be the sweet spot for me and my wallet.
I am anal about things, especially spark plug wires and their routing, I have seen so many people spend tons of money in an engine just to have a nest of plug wires going every direction and all over the place.

 

[bucket]

Do you have any recommendations for any specific headers? I was looking at Hooker's 2452HKR which would be perfect except for the 2.5" collector, as I already purchased header buddies for a 3" collector (necked down to 2.25"). Around $250 would be the sweet spot for me and my wallet.
I am anal about things, especially spark plug wires and their routing, I have seen so many people spend tons of money in an engine just to have a nest of plug wires going every direction and all over the place.

You and me both! One of the things that will drive me the most batty, are poorly routed plug wires. When I see someone has done it wrong, I swear my blood pressure goes up just looking at them.

 

[bucket]

And personally, if those headers fit decent, I'd weld it up and get all the life out of them.

 

[legopnuematic]

And personally, if those headers fit decent, I'd weld it up and get all the life out of them.

That's what I think I'll do. Can't really complain about them since they have worked to break in 2 cams on two engines and only cost me $15 (approx value of the 30pk of natty light I traded for them).

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[shiftpro]

And personally, if those headers fit decent, I'd weld it up and get all the life out of them.

Best advice^^^

But all he's been doing is opening his wallet ever since he open the hood... let's see how much $ he's willing to blow lol! THEN we'll shift to talking him into a BBC!

 

[legopnuematic]

Best advice^^^

But all he's been doing is opening his wallet ever since he open the hood... let's see how much $ he's willing to blow lol! THEN we'll shift to talking him into a BBC!

The way I see it is that I do not have any plans of getting rid of the truck. I plan on being buried with it, so I'd rather spend some coin on it now while I have the time and available funds to hop it up and fix some things like the motor mounts/trans mount that were neglected to do when the PO got the engine swapped. As the Germans say- "You buy cheap, you buy twice."
If you look at my build thread for my 79 you will see that I am pretty thrifty and I like to rebuild/refurbish things, but in this case since I daily drive this truck all year round it was the better option to buy new versus rework the old heads, especially with them not being a matched set and one being one of the most crack prone and worst flowing heads ever cast.
No big block for this truck. In my mind a truck that came with a small block, should stay with a small block, inline six should stay inline six, and a big block stay big block.

 

[shiftpro]

The way I see it is that I do not have any plans of getting rid of the truck. I plan on being buried with it, so I'd rather spend some coin on it now while I have the time and available funds to hop it up and fix some things like the motor mounts/trans mount that were neglected to do when the PO got the engine swapped. As the Germans say- "You buy cheap, you buy twice."
If you look at my build thread for my 79 you will see that I am pretty thrifty and I like to rebuild/refurbish things, but in this case since I daily drive this truck all year round it was the better option to buy new versus rework the old heads, especially with them not being a matched set and one being one of the most crack prone and worst flowing heads ever cast.
No big block for this truck. In my mind a truck that came with a small block, should stay with a small block, inline six should stay inline six, and a big block stay big block.

I don't really think you are 'blowing money', it's all well spent.
I just caught up on your '79 thread.... thanks, you're a great contributor and real truck nut.

 

[Catbox]

Nice work sir.
It turned out very nice.

 

[legopnuematic]

Got my plug wires made up, I think I will not ever use pre terminated wires if I don't have to anymore. Not sure I dig the ketchup and mustard theme of the red separators/cap and yellow wires, but function over form and they are pretty neatly routed.

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Also used some split loom to hold the temp sender wire and a/c clutch wire so they don't get caught in the throttle linkage or get burned on the exhaust crossover, then held up with insulated clamps mounted on the top valve cover bolts. I didn't think about the alternator loom so I will get two more for that.

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Think the transmission mount was going bad.

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It is a special two piece quick release mount..;

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