Swims350
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2010
- Posts
- 4,352
- Reaction score
- 812
- Location
- Logan WV
- First Name
- Chris
- Truck Year
- 1983
- Truck Model
- K10
- Engine Size
- none
well not sure on the suqarebodies, but on my newer body style truck it sure does.
As hrpc said I know for sure on the squarebody trucks and vehicles if you got a brake light on and it's not the e-bare(which is another light itself aint it) then it's a pressure difference between front and rear that does it. Since it's only hooked to the prop. valve on the SB vehicles.
Mines like the 92 or so s-10's and stuff has the brake "brain box as I call it next to the MC, and has 2 big weather pak plugins that go to it, and the prop. valve wire is in that harness, but by itself. Then it has a dump or isolation valve mounted next to the prop. valve and under the mc. Since mine is rear wheel only it's supposed to let fluid bypass into the iso/dump valve instead of go to the rear brakes in heavy braking to avoid them locking and sliding. The book says if the light is on for any of it the anitlock goes into bypass and doesn't work. I have read online as well that a bad dump or iso. valve can act like a bad MC and let the pedal travel far before applying brakes, and NOT throw a brake light. I know they aint cheap either, reman. they are about $250. No way for me I'll do away with it. The website I had saved has info on checking it. They said to unhook the line going to the dump valve and run the mc line straight to the prop valve. or the prop. valve line straight to the rear brakes like the older trucks and if the pedal gets firm then it's a bad dump valve, if not it's a bad MC.
Anyone wants some reading check this out...
http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelseyhayes_rwal.htm
As hrpc said I know for sure on the squarebody trucks and vehicles if you got a brake light on and it's not the e-bare(which is another light itself aint it) then it's a pressure difference between front and rear that does it. Since it's only hooked to the prop. valve on the SB vehicles.
Mines like the 92 or so s-10's and stuff has the brake "brain box as I call it next to the MC, and has 2 big weather pak plugins that go to it, and the prop. valve wire is in that harness, but by itself. Then it has a dump or isolation valve mounted next to the prop. valve and under the mc. Since mine is rear wheel only it's supposed to let fluid bypass into the iso/dump valve instead of go to the rear brakes in heavy braking to avoid them locking and sliding. The book says if the light is on for any of it the anitlock goes into bypass and doesn't work. I have read online as well that a bad dump or iso. valve can act like a bad MC and let the pedal travel far before applying brakes, and NOT throw a brake light. I know they aint cheap either, reman. they are about $250. No way for me I'll do away with it. The website I had saved has info on checking it. They said to unhook the line going to the dump valve and run the mc line straight to the prop valve. or the prop. valve line straight to the rear brakes like the older trucks and if the pedal gets firm then it's a bad dump valve, if not it's a bad MC.
Anyone wants some reading check this out...
http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelseyhayes_rwal.htm
