Brake kits...how to navigate it all..

[krautmeister]

I have a 1980 (trim unknown). It's got front disc and drum rears.

What is a simple, good kit to replace discs and calipers?

My google search keeps bringing up expensive high performance kits or ones for older trucks.

I have watched countless videos on replacement and I'm good there. Can I get discs with new bearings already installed???? That would make this an easy task for me.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

If it were me, I'd just go on RockAuto and get me two AC Delco rotors and two AC Delco caliper kits. If you go to RockAuto's preferred vendor section on here, you'll find a 5% discount code that you can use upon checkout. There are small core fees on the calipers, but it's worth it for the better quality control that Delco parts have rather than the Chinese parts store stuff. It probably wouldn't cost much to send them back USPS, anyways, so it may work out a little better. When you buy the rotors, the races should already be pressed in so all you have to do is get the bearings and pack/install them. Piece of cake. There's no such thing as being too liberal with the amount of grease you use, by the way.

 

[krautmeister]

Hey thanks! the races were the part I was hoping were already in place!!

I think I'll do just that... replace lines too

 

[spanky55amg]

If it were me, I'd just go on RockAuto and get me two AC Delco rotors and two AC Delco caliper kits. If you go to RockAuto's preferred vendor section on here, you'll find a 5% discount code that you can use upon checkout. There are small core fees on the calipers, but it's worth it for the better quality control that Delco parts have rather than the Chinese parts store stuff. It probably wouldn't cost much to send them back USPS, anyways, so it may work out a little better. When you buy the rotors, the races should already be pressed in so all you have to do is get the bearings and pack/install them. Piece of cake. There's no such thing as being too liberal with the amount of grease you use, by the way.

^^^ This, unless you want/need performance... from pads or calipers. But either way, a good blank rotor is the best way to go. You dont need these slotted or drilled rotors. They actually cause you to loose stopping power as it is less friction material.

 

[krautmeister]

One last question. I am assuming I should replace inner and outer bearings all at the same time. What bearing grease you guys recommend?

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Yeah, the wheel bearing kits will come with inner and outer bearings and inner and outer races. Do what you wish with the races, and you'll have both bearings. I use the wheel bearing grease O'Reilly's has on the shelf in the cardboard tube with a pull tab on it. Works fine for me. If you're ever replacing bearings and races, replace everything. I would also advise that if you get to this point on an old style rotor that's not in good shape, go ahead an replace or turn the rotor beforehand and do the bearing job once instead of having to undo all your work and repack/reinstall them nine months later because the rotor needed to be turned or replaced. I've made that mistake before, and while it's not a difficult job to have to do again, it's very greasy.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

^^^ This, unless you want/need performance... from pads or calipers. But either way, a good blank rotor is the best way to go. You dont need these slotted or drilled rotors. They actually cause you to loose stopping power as it is less friction material.

Hmmm......cross drilled helps keep the rotor cool and a quality cross drilled rotor will be a bit thicker. Just make sure the vanes are going in the correct direction. Also cross drilled and slotted rotors assist in eliminating gas pockets between the pad and rotor, in doing this gives you way better clamping force then trying to clap a gas pocket.

 

[shiftpro]

Use bacon fat.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Use bacon fat.

Settle down Paula Dean.....lol

 

[spanky55amg]

Hmmm......cross drilled helps keep the rotor cool and a quality cross drilled rotor will be a bit thicker. Just make sure the vanes are going in the correct direction. Also cross drilled and slotted rotors assist in eliminating gas pockets between the pad and rotor, in doing this gives you way better clamping force then trying to clap a gas pocket.

In theory, yes. But in real world application with daily driven or weekend driven vehicles, this really isnt the case. Cross drilled and slotted help on race applications where brakes get super hot. But for every day driving you need the friction of the brake pad to rotor. This is why you never ever see a car sitting on the dealer lot with slotted and drilled rotors. I mean, they look cool, but they dont help. Its like stickers, or extra lights.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

In theory, yes. But in real world application with daily driven or weekend driven vehicles, this really isnt the case. Cross drilled and slotted help on race applications where brakes get super hot. But for every day driving you need the friction of the brake pad to rotor. This is why you never ever see a car sitting on the dealer lot with slotted and drilled rotors. I mean, they look cool, but they dont help. Its like stickers, or extra lights.

Porsche come with them........lol yes I will agree with you so half. And stickers is horse power.....that's why race cars have so many, sponcers equal money and money equals horse power........ok now I'm being silly but if you think about it I'm right to a point lol

 

[MikeB]

If you want bling, get slotted drilled discs with red calipers and crappy pads. If you want to stop, get some good OE replacement parts.

I recently installed some Brake Best brand calipers and rotors from O'Reilly Auto Parts, and some Wagner MX52 semi-metallic pads from Rock Auto. Stopping power in my short bed C10 is very good, even with no-power boost. Price for rotors, calipers, and pads was less than $150. Add a pair of brake hoses and I was up another $25. I also used Timken wheel bearings and National seals.

New rotors will have the bearing races installed, but you will still need to buy the bearings. I actually knocked out the races in my new rotors and replaced them with the Timken races.

For me, the next step up would be Wilwood D52 calipers and their pads with BP10 compound on stock rotors.
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront.aspx?itemno=140-11290-R&year=1982&make=Chevrolet&model=C10&option=With+1.25"+Wide+Front+Rotor

 

[krautmeister]

Thanks all. I'm going to do the stock stuff... this is my Home Depot run truck.... sometimes burnout truck.... I have my BMW for my performance urges! Yes my BMW is 580hp!

 

[spanky55amg]

Thanks all. I'm going to do the stock stuff... this is my Home Depot run truck.... sometimes burnout truck.... I have my BMW for my performance urges! Yes my BMW is 580hp!

No reason this truck couldnt and shouldnt have more!

 

[spanky55amg]

Porsche come with them........lol yes I will agree with you so half. And stickers is horse power.....that's why race cars have so many, sponcers equal money and money equals horse power........ok now I'm being silly but if you think about it I'm right to a point lol

Usually though, those are ceramic brakes, which are a totally different beast! Ha.

I need more stickers on the truck