Brake Issues - RPO codes

[shiftpro]

What makes it "semi-floating" is that the outer bearings ride on the axle shaft. Only yhe inner half of the axle is unloaded. In a full-floating rear the bearings are contained in the outer hub and the axle bolts in, carrying no weight.

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Thanks Derek. Ok so a semi-floater is just your average differential then, like a 10/12 bolt. I thought it was something between this and a full floater.

 

[shiftpro]

Are the housings the same size?

They are certainly a different shape. The pumpkin on the full floater is more angular making it taller for the larger ring gear. You lose a bit of ground clearance. You may have heard about 'shaving a 14 bolt'? There's enough meat on the bottom corner it can be cut off and the welded up and the
cover modified. Sorry maybe more info there than you needed.

 

[Doppleganger]

I was wondering that in the event I came across one, perhaps the axles would swap out with the purtee housing I have. I'll figure on having it (if it ever happens) disassembled, painted, etc.

Will be someone different doing it. Assclown is pushing 9-1/2months and I still dont have the front axle back.

 

[Bextreme04]

I was wondering that in the event I came across one, perhaps the axles would swap out with the purtee housing I have. I'll figure on having it (if it ever happens) disassembled, painted, etc.

Will be someone different doing it. Assclown is pushing 9-1/2months and I still dont have the front axle back.

If you are wanting to go back to the bigger brakes anyways, and you need to rebuild the rear end you have, you might as well just buy a squarebody 14BFF rearend and rebuild it yourself. Most yards have them and you can find them in my area for $150-200 usually for an open diff.

A 14BFF is really easy to rebuild and there are tons of videos and info online. You could buy an open 14Bff with the gear ratio you want, get a yukon grizzly lunchbox locker and full rebuild kit and do the whole thing yourself. I just did this with my original 14BFF and it took about a week to fully clean, paint, and rebuild the whole thing including having the drums turned and all new brake hardware and wheel bearings/seals. I'd have to look at receipts for all the small parts, but I'm pretty sure it was only about $600 for everything including buying a harbor freight press to push the pinion bearings on/off.

 

[dsteelejr]

Dont think its a full floater

I know other users have already answered this question about your axle, but just for your future reference the easiest way to tell is a full floater will have bolts in the axle hub, like in the picture below.

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[shiftpro]

That's the **** ^^^^^^

http://www.billavista.com/Tech/Articles/14-Bolt_Gear_Setup/index.html

 

[Bextreme04]

That's the **** ^^^^^^

http://www.billavista.com/Tech/Articles/14-Bolt_Gear_Setup/index.html

Yep, that's what I used for my rebuild. Be advised that you will most likely need a 20 ton press to get the crush sleeve to start crushing. I highly recommend getting the crush sleeve eliminator kit.

 

[shiftpro]

Yep, that's what I used for my rebuild. Be advised that you will most likely need a 20 ton press to get the crush sleeve to start crushing. I highly recommend getting the crush sleeve eliminator kit.

This pieces of advice is worth the weight of the crush sleeve in GOLD.

 

[Doppleganger]

Have at it. The plates are the same.

Am to the point of hanging the new JB7 calipers on and they are too big for the dust shield - by about 1/8 - 1/4" too. Not sure what I'm supposed to do at this point - grind off the backing plates?

 

[shiftpro]

Am to the point of hanging the new JB7 calipers on and they are too big for the dust shield - by about 1/8 - 1/4" too. Not sure what I'm supposed to do at this point - grind off the backing plates?

Why not?
Let's see what else pops up before the grinder comes put.

 

[Doppleganger]

Why not?
Let's see what else pops up before the grinder comes put.

What other options are there?

If I could get out anything close to what I have in this mess, it would be gone. There isn't one area of this truck that hasn't been a royal PITA and huge expense.

 

[Blue Ox]

Am to the point of hanging the new JB7 calipers on and they are too big for the dust shield - by about 1/8 - 1/4" too. Not sure what I'm supposed to do at this point - grind off the backing plates?

Something doesn't sound right. AFAIK the backing plates are the same on the heavy and light 20 series. I did a conversion on my Suburban and didn't need to change the plates.

What is the diameter of the caliper piston?

 

[Doppleganger]

Something doesn't sound right. AFAIK the backing plates are the same on the heavy and light 20 series. I did a conversion on my Suburban and didn't need to change the plates.

What is the diameter of the caliper piston?

Looks to be about 3.04 (3-1/16 maybe). They almost fit - about 1/16 - 1/8 on both ends. I would prefer 1/8 clearance on top of actually fitting. That gap in the front is an angle illusion. Straight on, its the same as the back appears.

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[Blue Ox]

I don't have the book in front of me, but I think the JB7 caliper has an 80mm piston. I'm wondering if you got the right one.

 

[Doppleganger]

I don't have the book in front of me, but I think the JB7 caliper has an 80mm piston. I'm wondering if you got the right one.

80mm is 3.14 - my dials barely fit inside there and I got pretty close to that. I got AC Delco Pro's fwiw. PN matches. One part might be to the bottom of tolerance and the other to the top.

I've got some larger dials I'm going to check the size of the opening on the back plate vs the length of the caliper. Its always something with this thing.