Big block chevy build, 489 stroker

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HotRodPC

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Another worthy thread I've missed. Being a tall deck, out of curiosity, why did you choose only to go 489? I have a feeling I know why, just wondering if it's for the same reasons I would.
 

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I’d say to keep some steel in the cylinder walls
 

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I’d say to keep some steel in the cylinder walls
Oh you can keep the steel in the walls, just go with a longer stroke to increase even more cubes. My preferance would be to keep the rotating assembly lighter, less clearancing the block for crank throws. But the biggest reason is to keep the bore x stroke as squared as possible.
 

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Oh you can keep the steel in the walls, just go with a longer stroke to increase even more cubes. My preferance would be to keep the rotating assembly lighter, less clearancing the block for crank throws. But the biggest reason is to keep the bore x stroke as squared as possible.
Tall decks have a wider rail 4.5” with very minimal work.
 

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I’d say to keep some steel in the cylinder walls
Like kong said, didn't want to waste the block if something went wrong.

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Cylinder heads came in, have to send them out for a valve job. I put parts that i ordered to make sure everything fit before I sent the heads out.
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Oh you can keep the steel in the walls, just go with a longer stroke to increase even more cubes. My preferance would be to keep the rotating assembly lighter, less clearancing the block for crank throws. But the biggest reason is to keep the bore x stroke as squared as possible.
My tall deck block is an original 427 truck engine. I did have to shave some metal off the bottom of the block for the crank to fit and that was 4.25 stroke.

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My tall deck block is an original 427 truck engine. I did have to shave some metal off the bottom of the block for the crank to fit and that was 4.25 stroke.

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What year? I believe they changed the pan rail at some point.
 

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I was referring more to the stroke, not the bore. I get that part. I'd have done the same. I bore as little as necessary always. The few cubes you get by another .020 or .030 isn't worth loss of another use if needed in my opinion.
 

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I was referring more to the stroke, not the bore. I get that part. I'd have done the same. I bore as little as necessary always. The few cubes you get by another .020 or .030 isn't worth loss of another use if needed in my opinion.
Most tall decks you can safely go .100
 

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What year? I believe they changed the pan rail at some point.
I can't remember the number on the back of block, but I'm pretty sure it went from 70-84

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I can't remember the number on the back of block, but I'm pretty sure it went from 70-84

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Gotchya mine is an 86 I’m planning 4.5” stroke when I do mine.
 

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Most tall decks you can safely go .100
Probably but you're also looking at spending a lot more money, if this engine was going in a chevelle or a nova than I would have gone with boring the block out more. For the build I want; this engine is perfect, still runs on pump gas and will be pushing about 550 to 600 hp

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Probably but you're also looking at spending a lot more money, if this engine was going in a chevelle or a nova than I would have gone with boring the block out more. For the build I want; this engine is perfect, still runs on pump gas and will be pushing about 550 to 600 hp

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I’m with you on that.
 

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I was referring more to the stroke, not the bore. I get that part. I'd have done the same. I bore as little as necessary always. The few cubes you get by another .020 or .030 isn't worth loss of another use if needed in my opinion.
In my opinion I don't think you would get much more of a gain from a 496 compared to a 489. To many variables on what you want out of the engine. Style of piston can change the compression ratio as well as rod length.

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