Bent clutch linkage

[iamtherealJayy]

I’ve been having some issues with my mechanical clutch to the point where I can hardly drive anymore. I adjusted it some yesterday with no help. I did notice where the linkage bolts to the block is bent. My main issue is it’s near impossible to take off without really giving some throttle because the truck starts shuttering. I have been using Low to take off for the last couple weeks and it’s to the point low doesn’t help it stop shaking. When shifting the truck jerks as you press the pedal and let off like you’re speed shifting when you’re not. I have just a little bit of pedal travel from full engage to fully disengaged so it instantly grabs

 

[Snoots]

Hard to tell from the pix but it appears that your motor mounts are shot. The Z-Bar looks fine as its spacing to the cab looks even and the pivot pin is not sunken into the bar.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

The bolt from the linkage to the block being like / isn’t a concern?

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Where is the spring supposed to connect? I read about the frame but mines ran towards a crossmember type deal

 

[Memaloose]

I agree. From past experience, the clutch linkage will not function as it should upon acceleration due to the engine rising up from the torque. I would replaceboth engine mounts and the bent pivot stud before it breaks off.
At least that's wht it looks like to me.

 

[Rickf]

Is that pivot ball bent, or are the threads in the block F'd up?

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I didn’t think motor mounts would directly effect it that much, I’ll look into them. I’m not sure if the pivot is bent or what but it’s obviously not straight, the exhaust was still hot earlier so I couldn’t get as close as I’d like to

 

[iamtherealJayy]

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Here’s more photos now that I could really get my hands and phone in there

 

[Snoots]

That Pivot Ball needs to be replaced. Chase the block threads before installing a new one.
Those motor mounts look questionable. IIWY, I'd install new ones.
Yes, any excessive engine movement will cause clutch problems.
Also, be sure to grease the Z-Bar well when you replace the Pivot Ball.

 

[Juggernaut]

That pivot ball is very bad! Looks like to me it started backing out and is now pulling out of the last few threads. Also looks like your Z-bar may be worn out. That ball should be centered, it rides inside a cup. They are rebuildable and you can still buy all the parts. Hopefully you can still chase the threads in the bell housing if there are enough left. Chase it, clean it really good, use red locktite, keep an eye on it and keep your fingers crossed!

 

[iamtherealJayy]

So what you’re getting at is I most definitely don’t need to take this truck to work in the morning and I really need to replace these parts before things get ugly. The throw out bearing has squeaked since I got the truck but recently the clutch has been getting worse and worse with every drive to the point I started using low to take off unless I was going down hill. And now you can barely take off in low it starts shuttering so violently it’s sorta a wheel hop feeling. I’ll look into some motor mounts and some trans/tcase bushings. If any of you recall one bolt in the tcase cross member is a normal straight bolt without the bushing spacer deal on it. I figure replace all of them if any.

 

[Juggernaut]

I wouldn't drive it. Ball could break loose at any time. You can drive a manual without a clutch, but it is a PITA!! And you definitely don't want to drive it if you have to hit a bunch of stop lights. You have to shut the engine off and start it in gear every time you have to stop. Then it's a matter of getting the RPMs right and jam it in the next gear

 

[iamtherealJayy]

What does the engine side pivot ball look like? Just googling I’ve found several differnt looking ones. I’ll replace the pivot ball first and do motor mounts when I get there but I need it driveable ASAP lol it’s my work truck

 

[SquareRoot]

Your motor mounts are shot. I had a similar issue awhile back. It wasn't noticeable with the auto trans but when I put the NV4500 in it became obvious quickly. I could NOT tell the mounts had dry rotted and separated from looking at them while they were in the truck. When I pulled the thru bolt out and jacked the engine up the mounts literally fell out in several pieces. I replaced them with Poly mounts (personal choice-not everybody likes poly) along with a poly trans mount. The shudder went completely away.
The engine in yours is moving due to the torque when you engage the clutch. That's why its destroying the ball stud. My 85 has a hydraulic clutch so it wasn't an issue in my case.

If that ball stud breaks off in the block your headache will increase 10 fold. Id fix it while you can still grab onto it.

 

[SquareRoot]

I wouldn't drive it. Ball could break loose at any time. You can drive a manual without a clutch, but it is a PITA!! And you definitely don't want to drive it if you have to hit a bunch of stop lights. You have to shut the engine off and start it in gear every time you have to stop. Then it's a matter of getting the RPMs right and jam it in the next gear

You don't "jam" it into gear. You synchronize the gear speed with the engine by using the throttle and gently "float" it into the next gear.