Bent clutch linkage

[iamtherealJayy]

I will I will be patient, it’s still 8:30 on Saturday morning I’m off work today and haven’t wanted to get dirty yet lol

 

[AuroraGirl]

I will I will be patient, it’s still 8:30 on Saturday morning I’m off work today and haven’t wanted to get dirty yet lol

At 830 am i was standing in grey slime that was warm and the smell was terriblee. By time I got done unloading my trash from trailer I smelled like a dumpster.

Im not resting lol

 

[iamtherealJayy]

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Here’s a video of the motor mount movement with a pry bar, I got two new ones and I’m replacing them tonight. I fixed the pivot ball last night and cleaned the zbar and put new grease in it.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Changed motor mounts and rebuild the Zbar thing. Everything has been going fairly smoothly although I do still have a little shutter at some points when taking off in first, not low, it’s usually at beginning of pedal so could that be possible clutch slipping or? It’s not the engine moving by any means I’ve fixed all the vacuum leaks and it idles very very smoothly currently.

 

[Snoots]

I hope it's not possible that there may have been a greasy finger on the clutch plate or flywheel but a spritz of brake cleaner should help remedy that.
Sometimes clutches need a break-in proceedure like brake pads do. Just go easy on it for a while (~100 miles or so) then re-adjust it.
Good job!

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Well considering the inspection plate is missing and part of the bell housing has been trimmed away it’s very possible debris has gotten into the clutch. I haven’t changed the clutch or anything yet but I plan on replacing the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, all trans/tcase seals, and ujoints soon if the started doesn’t stop grinding. I got left at work Friday afternoon because the truck wouldn’t start. I redid the shims today and it’s at 6 shims on the outer bolt to get the 1/8” between ring gear and bendix armature. I sprayed it all with brake clean today when I cleaned the under carriage. It’s leaking oil somewhere the inside of the bell housing is grimy.

 

[Snoots]

If it's that bad, replace the rear main seal before installing a new clutch.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I plan on replacing everything if I have to pull the trans, it’s dripping from like the rear of the trans aswell I think it’s gear oil or trans fluid it stinks, and it’s a silicon seal like it’s been apart before. I don’t feel like six shims is right

 

[idahovette]

@iamtherealJayy Had the same problem with my Grandson's S10 after we put the 327 in it. Shimmed the outside about the same amount you are doing. Ours was a GM style mini starter. Tried 2 of them, neither worked. Finally bought Power Master from Summit , took the body off of the aluminum mounting block, and machined 3/32 off of the attaching face. Works like a charm, now..........oh damn, that'll bite me!!!

 

[iamtherealJayy]

My starter seems to be working now but I’m having other electrical issues, 18 volts of electrical issues

 

[AuroraGirl]

My starter seems to be working now but I’m having other electrical issues, 18 volts of electrical issues

sounds like a failed 12si, or cs130 (depends on which yours had, i forgot) replace the alternator assuming your sense wire and wiring for alt is proper.

If the sense wire is wired somewhere with a LOT of resistance, it will crank up to make that point get 13.5 ish volts while running, whihc may be 18 elsewhere. Thats why grounds and clean connections are important


Also, you have a 4x4 right? I feel like this was a 78 k10?

Jay, you replaced , as you had declared knowingly., you are replacing 2 of 3 drive train mounts. The transfer case mount is clapped and your shudder is chuggle basically if you knew what that is in a modern trans(auto)
If its 2wd, then same concept but also carrier bearing added

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’m not positive about alternator wiring it looks to be original and not hacked up, if you tell me what to look for I’ll look. Yes it’s a 78 k10 sm465/np205. I replaced motor mounts but I haven’t gotten to transmission mounts since I might have to pull the trans over starter issues I found a chipped edge on a flywheel tooth.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I’m not positive about alternator wiring it looks to be original and not hacked up, if you tell me what to look for I’ll look. Yes it’s a 78 k10 sm465/np205. I replaced motor mounts but I haven’t gotten to transmission mounts since I might have to pull the trans over starter issues I found a chipped edge on a flywheel tooth.

You must be registered for see images attach

Does one wire go to the junction to the alt, then the other wire goes inside harness? If so yeah lol. You should clean the connections and there is a ground connection on the back of the case(no idea size)

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Well I replaced the battery and the teuck cranked up ran like crap. It’s “rolling coal” and shooting flames when you rev it and the scent of fuel is outstanding. Initial Timing is at 8° btdc. What’s my issue now. Oh also after letting it run and thermostat open trucks still cranking slow

 

[AuroraGirl]

Well I replaced the battery and the teuck cranked up ran like crap. It’s “rolling coal” and shooting flames when you rev it and the scent of fuel is outstanding. Initial Timing is at 8° btdc. What’s my issue now. Oh also after letting it run and thermostat open trucks still cranking slow

cranking slow is a Starter issue. Or a electrical supply issue. Assuming your engine isnt advanced so much or r-tarded so much it starts interfereing with the cranking. If you want to test incase that were the case, crank the starter without the key being on. Your ignition wont be running so it cant slow it down.
High compression, high advance race car engines often have a separate ignition and crank switch to allow you to spin the engine over then enable ignition so it is spinning full speed when it fires.