Balancer install problem...

[RangRayy]

As the title states there's a problem with trying to install my harmonic balancer. While freshening up the motor with new seals, gaskets and paint I figured why not replace the balancer. It has 120k miles probably about time any way right?

Well now I have broken 2 install tools. One rented from oreillys and proform 66514. The oreillys one broke of in the crank with enough for me to grab with needle nose pliers and back it out. The proform one broke off a few threads in so I can't get it out.

Why am I breaking the tools? What could be causing the balancer to go on smooth 1/2 way then get so hard to turn it breaks the tool?

Next am I completely screwed with that bolt being stuck in the crank? Thought about welding a bit on it and then putting a nut on it to back it out but it's too far in the hole that I'm afraid it'll weld to the crank. Will an easy out work? Or am I going to have to strip the motor down and remove the crank and have it sent off or will I have to buy a new crank?

 

[Georgeb]

As the title states there's a problem with trying to install my harmonic balancer. While freshening up the motor with new seals, gaskets and paint I figured why not replace the balancer. It has 120k miles probably about time any way right?

Well now I have broken 2 install tools. One rented from oreillys and proform 66514. The oreillys one broke of in the crank with enough for me to grab with needle nose pliers and back it out. The proform one broke off a few threads in so I can't get it out.

Why am I breaking the tools? What could be causing the balancer to go on smooth 1/2 way then get so hard to turn it breaks the tool?

Next am I completely screwed with that bolt being stuck in the crank? Thought about welding a bit on it and then putting a nut on it to back it out but it's too far in the hole that I'm afraid it'll weld to the crank. Will an easy out work? Or am I going to have to strip the motor down and remove the crank and have it sent off or will I have to buy a new crank?

An easy out may work. I would suggest using a left hand drill bit so if it wants to back out it will with the drill before you even get to the point of using the easyout.

 

[RangRayy]

I am leery about an easy out I keep reading and the guy i work next tell me they break easily. He did mention though his experience he didn't have a good angle drilling his bolt. My motor is on the stand so I can probably get a more precise angle for drilling. I forgot about left handed drill bits.

I might even try my dremel with a line so I might possibly get at it with a small flat blade screwdriver and back it out.

 

[Georgeb]

It will be a hardened bolt so either try to find carbide drills or go real slow with lots of cutting oil.
Regarding the dampener itself I would verify you got the correct one and that it is made correctly.

 

[RangRayy]

That's I was going to attempt to reinstall the old one to verify its the new balancer and not the crank snout. I'm wondering too if it's clearing the first woodruf key and not the second one.

 

[Georgeb]

Whats wrong with the old balancer?

 

[RangRayy]

Whats wrong with the old balancer?

Nothing I assume. I had no known issues with it before I started pulling things off. I pulled it over to replace the timing cover. The engine has 125,000 miles and from what I've read they recommend replacing them at 100,000 miles.

Other than that it's rusty and I really didn't want to spend the time cleaning it up and painting it black to match the other accessories. The rubber looks a bit brittle around the edges but appears to be in tact.

 

[RangRayy]

Well no one stress I was actually able to get the bolt backed out with a screw driver.


But I am still baffled as to why the 2 tools broke.

 

[firebane]

First off no need to replace a balancer unless there is visible cracks or the rubber has deteriorated.

With that said.. You could have ended up with just bad tools. I made up my own tool using thread rod, a few washers and a couple of bolts and had no troubles.

But I also made sure I cleaned the snout well with emory cloth before putting it on.

 

[RangRayy]

First off no need to replace a balancer unless there is visible cracks or the rubber has deteriorated.

With that said.. You could have ended up with just bad tools. I made up my own tool using thread rod, a few washers and a couple of bolts and had no troubles.

But I also made sure I cleaned the snout well with emory cloth before putting it on.

The rubber is questionable for 28 years... That's what I was thinking just maybe my luck to get one that was bad.

With the videos I have watched the rod that threads into the crank turns till it is bottomed out then they stop the crank from turning and use the thrust bearing to turn it on with a big nut and crescent wrench. Well when they are turning the nut the threaded rod doesn't turn. When I try to do it j have to put a wrench and socket on it to keep it from turning. Maybe that's my problem.

 

[firebane]

Balancers are a slip fit. With my setup all I did was use a big washer to push it on and the three nuts (Sorry forgot the 3rd).

One nut was used for the washer to push the balancer and the other two were so I could use a 2nd wrench and not have anything spin.

The balancer can only go on so far and it won't bottom out.

 

[RangRayy]

The balancer can only go on so far and it won't bottom out.

Mine would go almost 3/4 of the way on and it would get difficult to turn and would break the tools off. I assumed that it would bottom out on the crank sprocket.

 

[firebane]

Mine would go almost 3/4 of the way on and it would get difficult to turn and would break the tools off. I assumed that it would bottom out on the crank sprocket.

Negative. You will have like 1/4" or so of gap behind the balancer and timing cover.

 

[RangRayy]

Negative. You will have like 1/4" or so of gap behind the balancer and timing cover.

Is that on all small blocks? Or pre 1987? I tried going back and looking at all my photos that I've taken and I cannot tell how big the gap actually is between it and the timing cover. It's pretty close from what I can see. Although I know the balancer doesn't fully go under the timing pointer looks to be a bit over half though.

 

[Georgeb]

If I am not mistaken doesnt the balancer have a step in it that stops on the end of the crank? Or does it contact a step on the crank. You should be able to determine how far it will go on before bottoming out on one or the other depending on what stops it.