auto trans gearshift indicator

[MikeB]

Do I have the cable run correctly? The clamp is pretty tight, but should I secure it with a screw?

It's lots of work going from manual trans to auto.

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[chengny]

Nah that's good - just push the clip on. That clip is way more substantial than what they used on later model years.

I can almost guarantee that you will want to adjust the pointer setting after you have shifted a few times.

Depending on one's personality type, having that little orange indicator not line up exactly with the selected gear position (especially in the "D" position) can be a real issue.

Unfortunately I happen to have that type of personality. Here are a couple of tips to get perfect alignment:

Do the rough adjustment with the detent in neutral and line the pointer up with the "N". If you set it at one of the ends (e.g using the P while the detent is in park), when the shifter is moved to the other extreme, it will generally be offset towards the original set point.

Those clips grip pretty tightly. So, usually the clip is just barely pushed on while making the adjustments. You know, so it can be easily pulled off and reset several times - until you get it just right.

Problem is, eventually you finally have it set up just where you want it - perfect in every position - now it's time to push the clip home. You push it all the way on where it will remain forever. Nope! When you slide the clip all the way on, the connecting wire goes right along with it. When you look up to check your work, WTF happened? The wire has pulled the pointer about half a shift point over to the right.

Time to pull the clip off and start over - this time armed with the knowledge that sinking the clip all the way home will throw you off half the distance from one point to another.

Oh yeah, and then there are those tiny marks that get scratched into the column cover every time you push the clip on and then pull it off.

But all that effort is worth it. It is a great feeling when you shift to drive and the pointer is exactly on the "D". Sad part is, no one else will ever notice - or care one way or another.

 

[MikeB]

Thanks for all the info. I did align the pointer in neutral, so I should be good to go. Will know for sure when I get the trans linkage connected.

If the clip ever slips, I'll run a screw through it, but it's got a pretty good grip on the plastic.

 

[chengny]

Oh boy - you should have done the linkage first - dialing the indicator in is last. Here is how it goes. BTW - the actual names for the linkage components are shown in the dwg below. I was too lazy to do the research earlier - so I was making the names up:

SHIFT LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS

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Apply the parking brake.

Remove or Disconnect

1. Retaining pin (226).

2. Rod (240) from the column lever - note the position of any washers, spacers and
insulators removed.

3. Rod (240) from the equalizer lever (238)

C, K and P Models

4. Screw (242) and the washer swivel (232).

5. Retaining pin (227) and the equalizer lever (238) insulator, washer and the spring.


Clean

Metal parts using solvent. Wipe dry using a clean, dry rag.
Rubber or nylon parts using soapy water. Wipe dry using a clean, dry rag.


Install or Connect

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1. Equalizer lever (238) and a new retaining pin (227).

2. Spring, washer and the insulator.

3. Rod (240) to the equalizer lever (238).

C, K and P Models.

4. Swivel (232)

5. Washer and the screw (242).

6. Rod (240) to the column lever.

7. Insulators. spacers and washers in the positions they were removed from.

8. New retaining pin (226).


Adjust

1. Apply the parking brake.

2. Loosen the screw (242) or the nut (236), as used

3. Put the column selector lever in the "N" (Neutral) position.
NOTE: Position the lever by feeling it move into the neutral gate. Do not use the
column indicator to set the neutral position.

4. Put the transmission in neutral. (To do this, refer to the instructions and dwg below):

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1. Move the shift lever (A) to the forward position. Then back to the second detent. Note from me: By this they mean two clicks back (into the NEUTRAL detent) from the most clockwise position (full CW = PARK)

2. Hold the rod (240) tightly In the swivel (232).


Tighten


1. Nut (236) or the screw (242) to 23 N'm (17 ft. lb.).

2. Put the column selector lever In the "P" (Park) position.

3. Check the adjustment

4. The column selector lever must be able to go into all positions.

5. The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. Adjust if
needed.

CAUTION: With the selector lever In the "Park" position, the parking pawl should freely engage within the rear (reaction) internal gear lugs or output ring gear lugs and prevent the vehicle from roiling, which could cause personal injury.

And finally: Align the indicator. If needed.


Release the parking brake.

 

[MikeB]

Oh boy - you should have done the linkage first - dialing the indicator in is last. Here is how it goes. .

Well, there is a neutral gate in the column, and it's no wider than the "N", and the pointer sits smack in the middle of the N. So, I'll put the trans in neutral with the shifter in neutral, and go from there.

My Lokar shift linkage has a lever on the trans end that has a slot in it, so I can set the range of movement that way.

Thanks for the last part of the instructions about releasing the parking brake.

Lokar adjustable trans lever. It's also on splines so can be indexed for optimum push-pull angle relative the the long rod.

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[HotRodPC]

Do I have the cable run correctly? The clamp is pretty tight, but should I secure it with a screw?

It's lots of work going from manual trans to auto.

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It's alot more work going from Auto to Manual and I'm hoping to be doing that soon. Had we known, I'd have been real happy to swap everything you'd have needed. Clutch and Brake Pedals, Steering Column, linkage etc.


I've done one from Manaul to Auto before too. I used a B&M shifter and it saved alot of grief. The shifter had it's own shift indicator, back up light switch, and P N safety switch as well as cable operated linkage with an assortment of brackets for different applications and trans models. Although it was a Street/Strip truck so I wasn't going for the OEM swap anyway.

 

[MikeB]

HotRodPC --- I didn't quite understand your comment. Do you need a clutch pedal and linkage?

As for a floor shift, I thought about it, and even have a blank "shifter bowl" for my old manual column to make it look like a floor shift column. But I didn't want a ratcheting shifter for my wife (or me) to deal with, and something like a nice Lokar shifter with tall handle, illuminated indicator, and neutral/park and b/u light switches can easily cost $400. I've got around $450 in my total setup, including a rebuilt tilt column, the new gear indicator, and Lokar shift linkage.

 

[HotRodPC]

Ohh you were going from a column shift manual trans. You did good then if all you have is $450 in the swap and that included and rebuilt tilt column.

Yes, I have a K10 that is originally Auto Trans and I will be converting it to manual trans. So eventually I am going to be needing to hang the clutch and brake pedal.