Are 7 inch LED headlights good?

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Dysco

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Notice by what I mean in the picture. The cutoff absolutely prevents glare. I seriously doubt your headlights will look like this. Your headlights may be DOT compliant but that doesn't mean they don't cause glare.

Secondly, HIDs are still far superior when it comes to light output. The Philips D2S bulbs and Osram nightbreakers produce over 5000 lumens. These are in proper projector housings as all led/hid should be. This is all with a 35w 5000k bulb and hylux ballast in a g5-r projector.

If you want true help about headlights, join headlight junkies on Facebook. You pay for what you get. If $100 for a bulb is expensive to you then I say just get H4 halogen upgrades. Id put HIDs in headlights and foglights before LEDs anyday.

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Here is the trucklites 27270c.cut off via Headlight Revolution. Say what you want, but know what you are talking about. Zero screwing around with wires. Perfect fit. 15 minute project. And they don't blind people, yet light up the road and sideroad extremely well. Yes there are brighter lights. Projector lights look like bug eyes. They don't appeal to me at all on square body trucks. Fine for a Japanese car.
 
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Gilderbeast

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Here is the trucklites 27270c.cut off via Headlight Revolution. Say what you want, but know what you are talking about. Zero screwing around with wires. Perfect fit. 15 minute project. And they don't blind people, yet light up the road and sideroad extremely well. Yes there are brighter lights. Projector lights look like bug eyes. They don't appeal to me at all on square body trucks. Fine for a Japanese car.

These aren't bad but still produce glare where I circled. The wiring takes a whole 5 minutes to hook up since its plug and play. Even doing the HD headlight harness is a significant upgrade. They may look bug eyed but its the safest/brightest way and has the best output. Its Its slowly becoming more popular amongst hot rodders, especially with the halo rings. To me its a no brainer. I will never cheap out on headlights.

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Dysco

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If you go to the headlight revolution testing video, they actually compliment that spot that you circled as a unique way to shed a bit more light down the road without being a hazard to oncoming traffic. That is also the main area that the "brights" are focused. Again, giving brighter, farther lighting without blinding oncoming traffic if brights are accidentally left on or too long.

I'm not attempting to say that trucklites are the only or best option, there are plenty of others, some are brighter, some have different cut offs, some are projector, some are reflector, some are halos, bug eyes, spider eyes, etc. I am saying that LED's, in particular name brand DOT compliant LED's are very bright and safe without any additional components, wiring or fitment hassles. In addition LED's have typically a very long lifespan so the cost should be offset by potentially years and years of use.

Unfortunately you are pushing the issue that LED's do not work, are a hazard no matter the brand, and should be avoided. Close-minded thinking.
 

Gilderbeast

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Say what you want. It bleeds light causing glare, blinding oncoming traffic and definitely when following. A cutoff is supposed to prevent light from going above a safe level. High beams should be the only reason to go above the cutoff. When you aim your headlights they are supposed to drop 2" for every 25ft. If anything is above that it causes glare.

LEDs are very bright but safe only in a proper projector housing. The typical person throws cheap LEDs in a halogen housing which just produces a giant blob of light. Then they say they're amazing and aimed and not blinding anyone...right

I did not say LEDs don't work. I said you pay for what you get. Cheap ebay/amazon LEDs are garbage. If I paid for LEDs you can bet it would be in a projector housing and the bulb brand would most likely be GTR or Morimoto but you pay over the cost of HID retrofits to still be beat out by them.

Close-minded thinking...right. I'd say most people would prefer to not be blinded from the front or have headlights lighting your whole interior from the vehicle behind you.

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All disagreements about the aesthetic of how the head light looks on the truck aside, @Gilderbeast ’s projectors intensity, pattern and cutoff looks legit.
 

Dysco

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Gilderbeast,
1. It wasn't what I said in my previous post, it's what was said by a reputable company whose purpose is to test automotive lighting (and yes, they give very high praise to HID lights). I of course mentioned that in my replies AND their HR stamp is on the example photo I used. They said that small amount of light above the cut off is there on purpose. It is a design function that a few other lights and replacement bulbs have if you've done your research. In fact with some headlights, you need to indicate what country you are from when ordering (or make sure you are ordering the correct one for your country) as that extra bit of light above the cut off may be aimed slightly to the right or the left depending on which side of the road driving is done.
2. That tiny amount of light won't "light the entire interior" of another car. Get real. In addition, all rear-view mirrors have a turn-down function which has been standard in all vehicles well before LED's. Pretending it's an LED issue is simply false.
3. You are correct that HID, and LED bulbs have a different appearance/performance out of projector housings vs. reflectors. Projectors don't always equate to the best lighting or cut off though. REGARDLESS of what type of bulb you have, the type of housing will make a difference in brightness AND cutoff. The bulb is only part of the equation. Putting the same bulb in different housings will created different results. I also said that yes, there are brighter lights than the ones I installed.So you saying that the ones you have are brighter, is repetitive. For example JW Speaker projector LED's are much brighter than mine, but again, they are bug eyes, which I didn't want in my vehicle, so I purposefully avoided that brand. The O.P. is looking for 7" round headlights, there is a chance they might want to also avoid the bug eye look. .
4. I don't think that I ever recommended buying "cheap" lighting. In fact I specifically said DOT lighting from reputable manufacturers with warranties and not to buy "knock-offs". You saying "you pay for what you get" is reiterating exactly what I already mentioned.
5. Cost. My trucklites were $300 for the pair. JW Speakers (projectors) are about $400. Via the linked sources, plan on paying approximately a similar price for HID. And let's be realistic. Doing the wiring will not take 5 minutes as suggested and then you still need to install the housings and bulbs, perhaps cutting our trucks. Plenty of sources and videos out there mention a minimum of 30 minutes for just the wiring IF you know what you are doing. Of course some people CAN do it faster if they know what to do. Many people don't and it becomes either A. paying someone, or knowing someone to do it, or B at least an hour or more. I'm all for people learning to do new things with our trucks, but some people don't have the time or want the hassle at least in certain areas. Many a guy on this site and others has no problem rebuilding a carb, but hate dealing with wiring, or don't want to cut/bend anything on their trucks. Plug and play LED's fit very nicely for those folks.
6. Bulb life. HID bulbs, specifically the best and brightest 55w Morimotos have a lifespan of 2500 hours confirmed by the manufacturer and other testing sources. However it loses up to 20% of it's lighting ability during that time. HID's may also take several seconds when turned on (or depending on lighting configuration, going from a low-beam bulb to a high-beam bulb) to reach full lighting power and color . A trucklite LED has confirmed instant on lifespan of 25,000 hours, other LED's have confirmed lifespans of up to 50,000 hours. Granted either method of lighting will probably last as long as most trucks, but maybe not, as some have had the same truck in the family for over 40 years and might attempt to keep it another 40.

To the O.P. and other readers. I'm sorry that this thread has gone this direction. The post asked for recommendations and you got a few. I posted the link to my thread of what I purchased, why, and what I learned to help guide your decision making, regardless of what direction that might be, giving credit to other options of lighting. Unfortunately we were told that LED's, and mine specifically, will blind other drivers, fill the interiors with light, etc. There are some great comparative videos on youtube 7" round headlights as well as replacement bulbs. What you will typically find is, as mentioned, that if you go with reputable companies that warranty their products (which are DOT approved) you will get quality results regardless of what type of bulb (halogen included) or style you choose, but your housing will also be a factor. I hope you find what you like and enjoy the improved vision (and perhaps safety) it allows. The newer lights and bulbs are remarkably better than what our trucks typically have in them or was even available a few years ago. An upgrade is certainly a good decision and worth the cost (and/or depending on what you buy, the time and effort to make them work/fit in your truck) especially if you do much driving in the dark. I know my dark-driving on the way to/from archery hunting for example is vastly improved from last fall and more enjoyable than with my halogens and hopefully can help me avoid a deer/truck collision which could cost much more than the price of the lights. Have a great day.
 

Gilderbeast

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Cool story.
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/blog/halogen-vs-led-vs-hid-vs-laser/

To everyone else, I've screenshot dapper lightings 7" options, 4x6, and 6x7 plug and play. If you want to know my light setup im using Philips D2S 4800K HID bulbs ($100 brightest/whitest bulbs on market), G5-R projectors ($100), 35w Hylux Ballasts ($40 best brand of ballasts that I know of based on headlight junkies), clear 7" H4 housings, and a adapter to go from H4 to D2S ($15). If thats not good enough then you could retrofit G5-EXL projectors (best on the market).

https://www.dapperlighting.com/collections/1979-1987-chevy-pickup-truck

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Dysco

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Here's a video from almost a year ago. Yes, Hid are brightest at the time of the test and still may be. Note how the housing changes lighting ability of the bulb and pattern. Also, in the comments section, a question is asked about legality. Headlight Revolution replies that "None of these are DOT legal". That is a pretty important statement. While it might be rare in some areas to be pulled over and ticketed, just know that like other modifications that are against your state laws, it could happen which may mean the price of a ticket, and then replacing with your old set up, or paying for stock-type bulbs and having to set up an inspection at the police department or dmv. Super bright lights are really easy for a cop to notice fyi.
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AuroraGirl

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For me its power consumption to light output. For me, an LED with a long life and low wattage with good output is going to me more helpful than an HID which uses a lot of juice and gets hot(expensive, too.) with also a warm up time. Not my cup of tea, personally. The reason for this is my plow setup uses a ton of juice and one less thing straining my alternator the better hahaha
 

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For me its power consumption to light output. For me, an LED with a long life and low wattage with good output is going to me more helpful than an HID which uses a lot of juice and gets hot(expensive, too.) with also a warm up time. Not my cup of tea, personally. The reason for this is my plow setup uses a ton of juice and one less thing straining my alternator the better hahaha

If you ever decide to upgrade your alternator, these are built in Ohio. I couldn’t be happier with mine. They produce full voltage at idle and are consistent through the rpm range. Runs exactly 14.2-14.4v no matter the load. Direct replacement for most applications. They have a 100amp and 140amp version in the 10si case in all manner of clocking configurations. They run about a buck per amp.

https://www.tuffstuffperformance.co...lternators-1971-1986-10si-gm-alternators.html
 

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What is the difference between "clocking"? Also how do I know if I need an internal regulator or not?
 

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Dysco,

You do realize they used halogen projectors (they state it) instead of LED/HID projectors that are designed and built for LED/HID right? Of course sticking a bulb in a housing it wasn't designed for is illegal and not DOT compliant and the patterns will be different. My original intention of this thread was just to state to not put LEDs/HIDs in halogen reflector housings.

Dapperlighting is DOT compliant as well. For HIDs and LEDs to be legal in Minnesota they just have to meet the same standard of Halogens, which is pretty much candle power at a certain distance, color, and glare.
 

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What is the difference between "clocking"? Also how do I know if I need an internal regulator or not?
I think all of the ones listed on that page are internally regulated so they can be wired as a “1 wire” alternator. They can also be wired with the oem plug. In order to take advantage of the increased output, I ran a heavy gauge wire from the alternator’s ‘batt’ post and a wire from my battery’s positive post to my main junction. Really easy. I put my amp clamp on my ‘batt’ wire and turned accessories on and off. The alternator adjusts what it sends to the electrical system to avoid any overcharging.

Honestly, they know a lot more about it than I do. I would give them a call. They have great customer service and will answer any questions you may have.
 

Dysco

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Dysco,

You do realize they used halogen projectors (they state it) instead of LED/HID projectors that are designed and built for LED/HID right? Of course sticking a bulb in a housing it wasn't designed for is illegal and not DOT compliant and the patterns will be different. My original intention of this thread was just to state to not put LEDs/HIDs in halogen reflector housings.

Dapperlighting is DOT compliant as well. For HIDs and LEDs to be legal in Minnesota they just have to meet the same standard of Halogens, which is pretty much candle power at a certain distance, color, and glare.

Yes, I understand what they did and as mentioned, that it is illegal. That is why I also suggested to the readers that they know their laws and either follow them, or perhaps be prepared for some type of consequence. That said, it was a video comparison of aftermarket, and to be honest and legal, Off-road Only bulbs in two different housing configurations showing how each can/will change the lighting effect of each bulb.
 

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