arched springs

[89Suburban]

The shocks on the back of my truck from the factory are in opposite directions. One points to the back, the other to the front.

Does anybody know why this is, it irks me.....

 

[GreaseDog]

Really, you think a shock designed for a vehcile with 265 75R16 tires is strong enough on its own to control the dribble and added weight mass of say a 38-44in mudder tire? I'd say you use mutlple shocks to keep ride comfort. You're not adding a stiffer riding shock. You're just adding the same type comfy ride shocks in multiples instead of a stiffer shock to avoid the riding on a rock type feel. Rather than add a rock to beef up the strength for the bigger mass, you're just adding more cotton to control the extra mass and keeping the comfort.

now go down to your local auto parts store, and pull a pair of 40# hydraulic lift cylinders (like used on trunks, rear hatchbacks, etc.) and compress one with your bare hands... now compress 2 with your bare hands. how's that cotton working out for you now? by adding an additional shock, you have just doubled the amount it takes to compress said shocks... the very same thing you would be doing by running a stiffer shock. if you want more control, go to a shock with a bigger bore, and leave the ratio alone. the more surface area on the piston, the more control you will have.

or, if you must have multiple shocks because you think it makes you cool, knock the shock ratio down, 1/2 for 2 shocks, 1/3 for 3, etc... basically what you have just done there is increased the piston surface area without putting your shock ratio through the roof.

I was taught these things in a required alignmentj and suspension class to get my ASE alignmnet tech cetrificaton and the way it was explained and demonstarted to me in that class it all made perfect sense. Of course, that was back in the 80's. Just like CPR is done differently now too, maybe technology has proved otherwise than what I was taught. I'm sure manufactuers can put out what info they want and explain things in whatever way they see fit to sell a product, so different people will have different opinions based on their experience.

and what i was taught in my high performance suspension classes at UNOH not only taught me what i've been saying, we experimented with it on multiple types of vehicles... dirt modifieds, drag trucks, a rail dragster, and street driven trucks both lifted and lowered... along with my personal experiences over the last 15 years.

 

[GreaseDog]

The shocks on the back of my truck from the factory are in opposite directions. One points to the back, the other to the front.

and this is to help control axle wrap on a main drive axle.

 

[89Suburban]

and this is to help control axle wrap on a main drive axle.

Is it really that prevailant in stock form to have to mount the shocks opposite like that? Just wondering, because I saw what you said about the angle of the suspension movement and how the shock should be positioned. The GM trucks were the only ones I owned that had that setup. I thought axle wrap was more of a problem with blocked lift kits and larger tires, motors, etc?

Old Dodges I had had the shocks behind the axle angling towards center a bit. I forget how my buddy's old Ford was setup..

Also what do you think about traction bars, the ones that mount above the leaf spring pack with the U-bolts and run to the frame or spring hanger?

 

[GreaseDog]

Is it really that prevailant in stock form to have to mount the shocks opposite like that? Just wondering, because I saw what you said about the angle of the suspension movement and how the shock should be positioned. The GM trucks were the only ones I owned that had that setup. I thought axle wrap was more of a problem with blocked lift kits and larger tires, motors, etc?

Old Dodges I had had the shocks behind the axle angling towards center a bit. I forget how my buddy's old Ford was setup..

keep in mind, the softer the spring, the more of a problem spring wrap becomes. trucks started becoming less utility, and more every day use vehicles in the late 60s and early 70s, so the spring rates were lightened to improve ride quality... softer springs mean more problems with spring wrap. and it is more of a problem with block lifts due to the increased leverage on the sping.

Also what do you think about traction bars, the ones that mount above the leaf spring pack with the U-bolts and run to the frame or spring hanger?

i can't say i've seen a setup like that other than Cal Tracs. they work very well at eliminating axle wrap, and improving traction. if you've ever driven a vehicle equipped with such a setup, you'll know that the ride is more harsh. under normal curcumstances, the leaf spring changes lengths as it compresses and decompresses through its normal range of motion. add a solid link to the setup, and you're effectively binding it. the back of the spring can still flex like normal, but the front cannot. eventually, a setup like that will wear out the leaf springs, and they will crack. most generally right behind the spring plate, or at the center pin.

in my opinion, if you want a good traction bar setup, stick with good old slapper bars. but don't buy the $39 ones that auto zone sells. buy a GOOD set, and adjust them properly. they should be the proper length too... the snubber is supposed to contact the leaf spring eye, NOT THE MIDDLE OF THE SPRING. if the snubber is in the middle of the spring, the spring will eventually fatigue and either bend or break where the snubber contacts it.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

I had a wheel hop problem with my old 77 stepside in the mud and snow and I put 2 degree shim's in the back to bring the pinion down in front a bit , wheel hop gone.