Another exhaust options thread - what should I do?

[tophat36]

So I’m tired of the noise the exhaust makes when I’m idling at a light and the general rattle. It currently has the stock y-pipe, end of it goes out the driver side, not straight back. There was no catalytic converter on this version. It’s a longbed, single cab, 2WD, camper special. I have read more than I wanted to about the exhaustive options for replacement and upgrades I’ve never seen so much disagreement about something in my life. Like holy cow do people have some strong opinions.

Things I care about:
- I don’t/can’t weld
- Max I want to invest in this is $1000
- I’m not concerned about performance, this is a work truck that I’m never going to race or anything in that vein. Just trying to make a mechanically sound, reliable truck.
- Sounds good, meaning not loud and not rattling/ping kind of thing. I like a deeper sorta purr… but I repeat not loud
- I want to just stick with the stock manifold, I don’t want to go the route of headers…just don’t care about all the non-sense I was reading about that (scavenging, torque, power, rpms, blah blah, blah)

Questions and indecision I have
- Stay with the y-pipe or is it worth it to go to a dual exhaust
- if dual exhaust, why do H pipe or not
- send the pipes out the back or out the sides
- if I stay with the y-pipe, what size of pipe? 2” or 3” worth the upgrade
- what kind of muffler do I get? Is that another rabbit hole?

 

[DoubleDingo]

I was always a true dual guy. Then I bought my 81 c20, no cat, 2 y-pipe into 2.5 intermediate into 2.25 out and over the axle. The truck has never been out of power because of exhaust. I will never go back to true dual. I personally have a long glass pack for the muffler and a short glass pack upstream as a resonator. Technically that's what a muffler is, a resonator, but I like the sound and it runs great.

I would suggest keeping it single and find a muffler you like and run it.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Keep in mind stock mufflers are going to be quieter

 

[tophat36]

I was always a true dual guy. Then I bought my 81 c20, no cat, 2 y-pipe into 2.5 intermediate into 2.25 out and over the axle. The truck has been out of power because of exhaust. I will never go back to true dual. I personally have a long glass pack for the muffler and a short glass pack upstream as a resonator. Technically that's what a muffler is, a resonator, but I like the sound and it runs great.

I would suggest keeping it single and find a muffler you like and run it.

Thank you for your input. So what you’re saying is the truck you have now is a y-pipe and you like it better than the dual you had in the past. When you said “the truck has been out of power bc of exhaust” what do you mean? Also what are good brands of mufflers? Last question, why do you not just use one size pipe over the entire length?

 

[DoubleDingo]

Thank you for your input. So what you’re saying is the truck you have now is a y-pipe and you like it better than the dual you had in the past. When you said “the truck has been out of power bc of exhaust” what do you mean? Also what are good brands of mufflers? Last question, why do you not just use one size pipe over the entire length?

I did my normal forget to type in the word, and then when proofing I didn't catch it.

Yeah my 81 is single exhaust, and has NEVER been with a lack of power. Even before I swapped to vortec heads, it didn't lack power. I will say, though, the glass packs helped it breathe. I should have installed a longer main glass pack and longer resonator, and I will when it has to be redone. It has a good sound, but it got louder after some backfires out the tailpipe. Had issues with check valves on the smog system. Driving at night it would spit flames out the side. Looked cool as heck but didn't do the glass packs any justice.

 

[75gmck25]

I used a 2 1/4” dual kit from Summit, an h-pipe, and Magnaflow mufflers. It has a low performance sound at idle and low rpm, and then gets throatier and louder if you hit the throttle hard. It’s never real loud, but you can definitely tell there is a V8 behind it.

 

[tophat36]

I did my normal forget to type in the word, and then when proofing I didn't catch it.

Yeah my 81 is single exhaust, and has NEVER been with a lack of power. Even before I swapped to vortec heads, it didn't lack power. I will say, though, the glass packs helped it breathe. I should have installed a longer main glass pack and longer resonator, and I will when it has to be redone. It has a good sound, but it got louder after some backfires out the tailpipe. Had issues with check valves on the smog system. Driving at night it would spit flames out the side. Looked cool as heck but didn't do the glass packs any justice.

What is the difference between a glass pack and a muffler? And can you explain why you have different size diameter pipe?

 

[Grit dog]

This is what you need! Well under $1000, although it did require a little welding…

You must be registered for see images attach

Just kidding…
If you just have a stock low hp truck and aren’t after fast or loud, then the solution is easy. But first, gotta know if the existing system is solid or rusted out.
If it’s solid, fix the rattling noise and call it good.
Not sure what you “dont like” about the sound at idle, but if it’s too loud, replace with a big fat quiet muffler. If it’s too quiet replace with a full size baffled turbo type muffler, but a quieter version. Like a 60 series Flowmaster or any “quiet” performance muffler, for just a little grumble.
Both options are <$100 all in and only require basic tools and basic skills to diy a new muffler.
If the exhaust is rotted out, then find a single exhaust setup, bolt/clamp on style and install. <$150 and a little more work than just replacing the muffler but no welding required.
Replacing with any sort of dual exhaust will net you zero real world benefit on a 170hp little V8, other than noise.

 

[DoubleDingo]

This is what you need! Well under $1000, although it did require a little welding…

You must be registered for see images attach

Just kidding…
If you just have a stock low hp truck and aren’t after fast or loud, then the solution is easy. But first, gotta know if the existing system is solid or rusted out.
If it’s solid, fix the rattling noise and call it good.
Not sure what you “dont like” about the sound at idle, but if it’s too loud, replace with a big fat quiet muffler. If it’s too quiet replace with a full size baffled turbo type muffler, but a quieter version. Like a 60 series Flowmaster or any “quiet” performance muffler, for just a little grumble.
Both options are <$100 all in and only require basic tools and basic skills to diy a new muffler.
If the exhaust is rotted out, then find a single exhaust setup, bolt/clamp on style and install. <$150 and a little more work than just replacing the muffler but no welding required.
Replacing with any sort of dual exhaust will net you zero real world benefit on a 170hp little V8, other than noise.

It will too net you something, a lighter-thinner wallet. Oh wait, you meant engine-power-wise, yep, no benefit.

 

[DoubleDingo]

What is the difference between a glass pack and a muffler? And can you explain why you have different size diameter pipe?

glasspack is straight through with fiberglass packing material and old school rumble. Mufflers are chambered, some are very loud, some are not, depends on the design. I tried different mufflers, and went back to glasspacks, simple, inexpensive, and good sound. Longer = quieter.

 

[75gmck25]

Glass pack or straight through is just a type of low restriction muffler. It will usually have a straight through perforated pipe down the middle (you can look right through it) for low restriction, and there will be fiberglass packing around the pipe. The perforations and packing are designed to absorb/reduct the sound by forcing it toward the fiberglass packing where it will be absorbed.

You will also find other types of lower restriction mufflers:
Chambered- most well known is probably Flowmaster, but they are also available from many other vendors. Exhaust flow goes on an indirect path through a series of chambers, which are configured to reduce sound. They can "tune" the number of chambers, the length of the muffler, and how they connect to make the volume and frequency change. Some brands are known to sound good at certain speeds, but have a bad resonance and highway cruise.

"Turbo" - They usually have a relatively open path through the muffler, but the path snakes around and is more exposed to the packing in the muffler. This makes them quieter than a straight through muffler. I believe they were nicknamed "Turbo" mufflers because when car companies first started using turbos they found the turbo itself muffled engine sound and created restriction, but many cars could use this low restriction muffler and still have a quiet engine.

Resonator - usually a short, simple design muffler that is added to reduce sound or resonance in the exhaust system. Many OEM exhausts have resonators.

 

[ChuckN]

Just throwing this out there- if not concerned with power, why not just find a custom exhaust shop nearby, have them bend and weld it up, and be done? At that point, you could specify what muffler to put on, and you’d be way less than 1k.

You might gain a little mpg with true duals and an H-pipe but none of our trucks get great mpg, and the difference would likely only be 1-2 mpg. If not looking for loud, but somewhat of a performance sound, go with a standard turbo muffler. The “chambered” mufflers like my Flowmaster 40s just use delta shaped fins inside to break up the wound wave and are typically louder. Turbo mufflers use typically some sort of packing, have a deeper/quieter sound than standard cherry bomb glass packs because they’re not straight through and don’t have that snappy sound that glass packs have. Just my two cents.

Edit- what @75gmck25 said, beat me to it.

 

[Grit dog]

@ChuckN, you must have a good custom exhaust shop near you or haven’t been to one in a while.
I don’t believe in Western WA, a new welded exhaust (single exhaust) front to back can be had for “way less than $1k”. Be lucky to get out the door for a grand. And duals guaranteed to be well over $1k.
Just getttin a couple short pipes bent up and welded on for the duals in the C10 was $350 at the ONLY shop that would do the work in south King County.
Maybe the OP can find a cheap mom n pop shop out there on the Peninsula but it’ll still be 2-3x as much as a cheap pre-bent kit.
Sounded like she would diy if no welding involved.
I always look at what’s sunk cost in old cars too. Even moreso in a work vehicle/beater. IMO, a $1000 exhaust system will add very little to the value of that vehicle. And a new $150 clamp together exhaust and a cheap muffler will add the same value.

 

[Catbox]

Here is a stock replacement system from Roc Auto.
$108 plus shipping.

More Information for AP / EASTERN KIT15020833

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Seems pretty simple to me.
Get it home and install it yourself with clamps.
Or have somebody that knows how to weld do it up for you for a couple hundred.

 

[ChuckN]

@ChuckN, you must have a good custom exhaust shop near you or haven’t been to one in a while.
I don’t believe in Western WA, a new welded exhaust (single exhaust) front to back can be had for “way less than $1k”. Be lucky to get out the door for a grand. And duals guaranteed to be well over $1k.
Just getttin a couple short pipes bent up and welded on for the duals in the C10 was $350 at the ONLY shop that would do the work in south King County.
Maybe the OP can find a cheap mom n pop shop out there on the Peninsula but it’ll still be 2-3x as much as a cheap pre-bent kit.
Sounded like she would diy if no welding involved.
I always look at what’s sunk cost in old cars too. Even moreso in a work vehicle/beater. IMO, a $1000 exhaust system will add very little to the value of that vehicle. And a new $150 clamp together exhaust and a cheap muffler will add the same value.

Well, my duals cost me 475 at Midas here in Bellingham. But maybe I’m just lucky.