Aftermarket gear indicator fit

[Raider L]

@SirRobyn0,

You know I can usually fix some part that may not be quite what you needed it to be, but in the case of that track in the indicator there was no way to make it more narrow. So I did what I could to make it slide better, and I thought I did. but the second time I changed gears it hung! Dang!!

So early today I pulled the truck up into the drive and got after it.
@Goldie Driver should appreciate this part, I took that right hand screw out first with that finger tip screw driver I showed last night. I had alre4ady had my old indicator out and cleaned up. Fortunately I had some "dry transfer" lettering and repaired the letters on it. Rob do you know what "dry transfer" lettering is? We used it all the time on aircraft to re-letter stuff. Look it up and find a site that shows how to use it. You can use the end of a pencil to "transfer" the letters. And they come in all sizes and types of letter. Man, they've got some that gets down to micro size. They hold up fairly well.

They had faded from years, the "P" was barely visible and the "R" wasn't to much better. It was funny because I figured the truck must have been parked in such a way that the sun hit the left side of that part of the dash for just those letters to have faded.

 

[SirRobyn0]

@SirRobyn0,

You know I can usually fix some part that may not be quite what you needed it to be, but in the case of that track in the indicator there was no way to make it more narrow. So I did what I could to make it slide better, and I thought I did. but the second time I changed gears it hung! Dang!!

So early today I pulled the truck up into the drive and got after it.
@Goldie Driver should appreciate this part, I took that right hand screw out first with that finger tip screw driver I showed last night. I had alre4ady had my old indicator out and cleaned up. Fortunately I had some "dry transfer" lettering and repaired the letters on it. Rob do you know what "dry transfer" lettering is? We used it all the time on aircraft to re-letter stuff. Look it up and find a site that shows how to use it. You can use the end of a pencil to "transfer" the letters. And they come in all sizes and types of letter. Man, they've got some that gets down to micro size. They hold up fairly well.

They had faded from years, the "P" was barely visible and the "R" wasn't to much better. It was funny because I figured the truck must have been parked in such a way that the sun hit the left side of that part of the dash for just those letters to have faded.

Ya, I know you do good with what you have, or get. It just really gets on my nerves, you paid good money for essentially nothing, but you get the keep the wasted time. I just did that today on a car at work. I put an complicated ignition switch in a newer car, serval hours to install and it's defective, so gotta come back out.

I do know what dry transfer lettering is and I can't remember why. I think I've just been told about it in the past. Good tip on using it on the shift indicator. A guy could make it say whatever you wanted it to.

 

[Raider L]

@SirRobyn0,

Ha, ha, ha, I didn't think about writing whatever you wanted. Practice, practice before you tackle the indicator lettering. I knew that you can only mark part of the transfered letter to whatever it is you're trying to fix. Just be aware that it doesn't always stick good. As you make the scratch on the transfer, when done just pull away and it will leave whatever amount you needed to transfer. Quadruple check alignment!
There used to be a "drafting" supply place in town but I think they moved and I never knew the name. I just knew where it was downtown. Now I don't know, they may have gone out of business with so much stuff being bought off the internet, draftsmen may be buying their transfers off line, and the stuff I can find at Hobby Lobby isn't worth putting on anything but maybe in a scrap book.

Yeah, you could write "fast, faster, flames", if you could fit it all in. Lol. Or Aim, Fire! Or like @AuroraGirl was indicating about the PRNDSL thing, I asked her if "S" meant "slow"?

 

[Raider L]

@AuroraGirl,

Yeah, it did run pretty good though with that crappy Autolite on there. I could hold my own through three speeds of some Road Runner's 4 speed I'd be racing on the street, that is until they hit 4th and then I'd be done. They would always ask me, "What-ju got in there?" Then I tell them it was a 2 bbl. and they'd give me that disbelieveing look.

 

[AuroraGirl]

@AuroraGirl,

Yeah, it did run pretty good though with that crappy Autolite on there. I could hold my own through three speeds of some Road Runner's 4 speed I'd be racing on the street, that is until they hit 4th and then I'd be done. They would always ask me, "What-ju got in there?" Then I tell them it was a 2 bbl. and they'd give me that disbelieveing look.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

This sounds a lot meaner than it was, 0-60 in 3.2 intersections or so (18 seconds or so)

accelerator pump sprung a small leak after I sold it, the guy said itran really good when it did(less rich probably lol)
did ok for probably never being rebuilt since it was made in 76 or 77 (the carb)

 

[AuroraGirl]

Ya, I know you do good with what you have, or get. It just really gets on my nerves, you paid good money for essentially nothing, but you get the keep the wasted time. I just did that today on a car at work. I put an complicated ignition switch in a newer car, serval hours to install and it's defective, so gotta come back out.

I do know what dry transfer lettering is and I can't remember why. I think I've just been told about it in the past. Good tip on using it on the shift indicator. A guy could make it say whatever you wanted it to.

I had put a new AC delco cranksensor and a not-AC Delco crank pulley on my car, and it worked for the crank relearn on my tech 2(which required warming up to 180 ish degrees and holding near cutoff in park for the tool to calibrate the tone rings on the balancer position so the computer can use that to differentiate knock sensor data from actual engine stuff from something like a road being rough. ANyway, The car was good to go, i took off down my long driveway and took off from the base of it to cross the road and go to town where my dad lives for test drive and make sure it was all good..

The crank balancer was fine until I got to the bottom of the hill. Then the damn thing shifted, and the tone rings collided into the sensor, and the car was dead. Had to get it back up my hill...

couldnt have died before it or wait till I got back or anything....

That was a lot of work to get the car back to my shed, just to redo the entire job with a NAPA sensor and the original balancer.

The NAPA sensor gets a 5 star approval because its still working.

Its lucky because it doesnt want to know what would happen to it if it didnt work.

 

[Raider L]

@SirRobyn0,
And speaking about getting a bad part, I recently ordered a rear sway bar kit. So, I open up the box and the first thing I notice is it's not the kind that attaches to the differential axle tube, but goes up to the frame with the end links attaching to the leaf spring mounting plate. After reading the directions two or three times, because I had never seen that kind before I figured, what the heck.

But upon further investigation there are several kinds that attach that way I had just not looked for that kind and hadn't seen them. I had always looked at the regular kind. I didn't bother to call Western Chassis to find out what they sent me when I double checked the P/N and it was what I ordered. I guess it was one of those deals where the picture of what you thought you are buying may not necessarily be what you get. It'll work fine, and as a matter of fact, even better because the way it's made, mounting to the rear of the diff. I ordered the sway bar brackets that are for the front bar, and will use them to lower the bar down to as close to level with the leaf spring mounting plate thus shorting the end links to make the bar more rigid. Where it would normally swing from long end link bolts, one of the limiting factors in bars that use end links, the shorter the end link the better. The high end sway bars use solid end link connectors, with Heim joints on the end of the adjustable center piece.

So my time won't be wasted putting in a bar I'm not really satisfied with, like that dang indicator, I'll modify the bar kit to make it work better. I couldn't do that with that indicator. It was what it was--- sucked!

 

[Raider L]

@AuroraGirl,

Yep!! Just exactly what we were saying. You know, I don't remember stuff not, not working when new some years ago. I remember taking my wifes car to Sears, back when they were worth taking a car to them for work, and the mechanic and I were talking and he said, "Now, I don't think this has a guarantee on it as long as you would like." And I remarked and said, "What ever happened to to getting a Lifetime warranty on stuff?" He said, "Those days are gone!" Barely a warranty, no guarantee, no returns, no core. Dang no wonder people spring for a bit more expensive car that will hold up longer. Long before the first tune-up you get rid of the thing before it falls apart!

I don't know though, my wife's '02 Nissan is hanging in there pretty good, if I can get my son, who drives it the most, to check the oil a bit more often. I told him don't wait until it strands you then check the oil!

 

[AuroraGirl]

@AuroraGirl,

Yep!! Just exactly what we were saying. You know, I don't remember stuff not, not working when new some years ago. I remember taking my wifes car to Sears, back when they were worth taking a car to them for work, and the mechanic and I were talking and he said, "Now, I don't think this has a guarantee on it as long as you would like." And I remarked and said, "What ever happened to to getting a Lifetime warranty on stuff?" He said, "Those days are gone!" Barely a warranty, no guarantee, no returns, no core. Dang no wonder people spring for a bit more expensive car that will hold up longer. Long before the first tune-up you get rid of the thing before it falls apart!

I don't know though, my wife's '02 Nissan is hanging in there pretty good, if I can get my son, who drives it the most, to check the oil a bit more often. I told him don't wait until it strands you then check the oil!

Does that nissan by chance use the same tie rod as a 04 maxima? I have a duralast tie rod you are welcome to have for cheap, the person it was for and the car it was for are both no longer.. er..around. Sounds morbid, kinda is, but the jist is I have a tie rod I dont need. LOL

 

[Goldie Driver]

Does that nissan by chance use the same tie rod as a 04 maxima? I have a duralast tie rod you are welcome to have for cheap, the person it was for and the car it was for are both no longer.. er..around. Sounds morbid, kinda is, but the jist is I have a tie rod I dont need. LOL

Which vehicle on your lot is the body buried under?
LOL

 

[AuroraGirl]

Which vehicle on your lot is the body buried under?
LOL

Well, none, that person's celebration of life is tomorrow but IM sure the family, horrible people, cremated or tossed them in a ditch somewhere (this COL isnt even the family event... the funeral was a circlejerk of terrible people pretending they were there for them.

But dont feel bad, im not losing sleep over it anymore lol.

But if I had to guess, the 67 and 70 impalas. right under neathem. God knwos whats under them

 

[Raider L]

@AuroraGirl,

Thanks, but no thanks. I just had the suspension overhauled a couple of years ago, new shocks to. I bought a complete set of shocks, McPherson strut kind for less than $400 shipped off the internet!! That's something, huh? We took the car to this place that does good cheap work and they called back and said that since his car was the kind that had to have half the front suspension taken apart to get the front struts in, it was going to be extra. It was supposed to be a 100 each end, frt. & bk.. So I asked how much more? He said, "200 more"!! Uuuah, my son was p.o.'ed. $400 instead of $200. It cost more to put the stuff in than it cost to buy it. Oh well. If we had let the installer buy the stuff it would have been five times more! When he saw how well it drove afterwards it was worth it. And with a year warranty on the work.

 

[AuroraGirl]

@AuroraGirl,

Thanks, but no thanks. I just had the suspension overhauled a couple of years ago, new shocks to. I bought a complete set of shocks, McPherson strut kind for less than $400 shipped off the internet!! That's something, huh? We took the car to this place that does good cheap work and they called back and said that since his car was the kind that had to have half the front suspension taken apart to get the front struts in, it was going to be extra. It was supposed to be a 100 each end, frt. & bk.. So I asked how much more? He said, "200 more"!! Uuuah, my son was p.o.'ed. $400 instead of $200. It cost more to put the stuff in than it cost to buy it. Oh well. If we had let the installer buy the stuff it would have been five times more! When he saw how well it drove afterwards it was worth it. And with a year warranty on the work.

Really? That doesn’t sound right.. unless its something truly unique because the maxima was no way like that