Adding relays to headlights.

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one4fun

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I wanted to post an update on what I ended up doing. I ended up making my own wiring harness using two 5 prong relay pigtails (removed the center wire since it is not used) rather than having 4 female spade connectors for each relay.

These are the instructions I used:
http://tinyurl.com/mlmr86s

I mounted the relay's in the front corner of the inner fender on the d/s. There is a small flat section on the inner fender slightly forward from the windshield washer fluid tank where I mounted a fuse block. (chose to go this route rather than an inline fuse for each relay) I pulled the power from the junction block on the firewall to the fuse block using 12 gauge wire. Routed it from the fuse box, inside the inner fender, wrapped in wire loom, and then along the fire wall to the junction block.

As described in the instructions, I made sure to cut the correct light brown wire as there are two of them that go into the low beam headlight. One goes to the switch and other runs across to the p/s headlight. That's where the extra prep time comes into play for me. Kind of like the "measure twice, cut once" concept. I'll take some pictures tonight and add them to this thread for reference as needed.

So far, I still have the stock headlights installed and stock connectors. Mine are getting a bit brittle and showing signs of age so I will replace those as well with some heavier gauge wire. I can see a noticeable difference in the brightness with just the relays. I'm replacing the headlights with H4 glass lenses and adding the 90/100W bulbs. I have these same bulbs on my 1975 droF and the visibility is AMAZING!

For anyone who has not done this upgrade, I highly recommend it.
 

MadOgre

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Im wondering if the Headlight Switch can be powered by an ignition on source ?

This way the head lights can be turned on and off, but will not stay on after the ignition is turned off.

I don't know how many times I have left them on lol
 

one4fun

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Probably. Or, you can install one of those annoying buzzers that sound when the key is of but the lights are in. They are really easy to hook up.
 

rich weyand

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My dad taught me 45 years ago to always stop and turn around and look at your vehicle when you are about 50 feet away. At that time, you could see the door locks sticking up if it wasn't locked. (Of course, with the CKs we still can!) You could check the lights. You could tell if the tires were low. You could tell if it was dripping anything like coolant. All in a glance, because if you do it every time, your mind has a picture of what to expect and any deviation will stand out.

He also told me to never set your keys down. In the ignition with the engine running, in your hand, or in your pants pocket. When you turn off the engine, you pull the keys out. That habit has kept me from locking my keys in the car more than once or twice in forty-five years.
 

one4fun

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I do that now... just because i like to look at my truck.
 

DoubleDingo

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That is good practice. No one taught me that, and I never thought any of it until you gave all those reasons, and they were all things I look for. I even check out other cars and if I know or see the owner I let them know what I saw.

A couple weeks ago I was going in a store and saw the car by the door had low LF tire. 2 dudes smelling of weed got in it and when I walked to my car I let them know. They looked at me funny when I told them, but I walked away, the driver got out and looked. No air there so they had to travel a little bit to get some.
 

one4fun

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The wiring harness, relays and fuse block.
 

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one4fun

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The wiring from the junction block to the inner fender. The clean wire loom is the new one.
 

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350runner

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Nice job bud! What it cost you?

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

one4fun

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Thanks!

Cost:
2 relays = $14
2 Relay pigtails: $10
Fuse block = $10
I already had the connectors, wire, loom and fuses. Probably $10-15 for those parts.

So, all in... close to $50.
 

HotRodPC

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Great Addition to the thread. Reps :waytogo:
 

DoubleDingo

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That is very clean.
 

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