a/c in a non a/c truck

[Jimbo166]

Hey there I have a 1979 chevy Scottsdale that does not have air conditioning. I was wondering if there was an easy way to put ac in the truck and make it look factory?

 

[CorvairGeek]

There have been decent looking aftermarket units, not sure about current availability.

The holes punched in the firewall are considerably different between A/C and Non A/C making a full unit swap not a 'bolt on' prospect.

 

[J Knight]

Vintage air is your best bet for a clean bolt in install even on non-a/c cabs.

http://www.vintageair.com/SelectingSystemForYourVehicle.asp

 

[chengny]

Why not install a factory A/C system? It is really not a huge job and you can probably find all the necessary components at the JY or on Craigslist for about $50 (maybe not incl a good compressor).

I recently picked up a complete system for something like $40.


The firewall went from looking like this:

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To this (in about 12 hours):

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The hardest part is locating the compressor mounting brackets. The normal P/S bracket is not used and there are a couple of other stiffeners etc. that must be switched.

You won't be doing it alone if you give it a shot. There are a lot of knowledgable/helpful members here who will certainly guide you through the process.

 

[Konas new ride]

Why not install a factory A/C system? It is really not a huge job and you can probably find all the necessary components at the JY or on Craigslist for about $50 (maybe not incl a good compressor).

I recently picked up a complete system for something like $40.


The firewall went from looking like this:

You must be registered for see images attach

To this (in about 12 hours):

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The hardest part is locating the compressor mounting brackets. The normal P/S bracket is not used and there are a couple of other stiffeners etc. that must be switched.

You won't be doing it alone if you give it a shot. There are a lot of knowledgable/helpful members here who will certainly guide you through the process.

what all is needed inside? controls with cables. Anything else?

 

[J Knight]

what all is needed inside? controls with cables. Anything else?

If you want to switch to a complete factory unit you need everything inside and outside the cab and I do mean everything including firewall modification.

 

[Konas new ride]

Thats what i figured, but now i know... no AC in my future

 

[chevyk10]

Can always think about a vintage air


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Konas new ride]

Can always think about a vintage air


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To much money for a work truck.. So far im into this thing for 400 bucks i would like to keep it under 1000 bucks when im all done.. I wonder if a wrecker would let me saw all the whole fire wall out

 

[chevyk10]

I have the outside firewall with the evaporator and dryer can. Actually I've got a lot of the parts. I even have a new sanden compressor and brackets. I have a condenser. The inside box isn't the best but I have one.


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[HotRodPC]

To much money for a work truck.. So far im into this thing for 400 bucks i would like to keep it under 1000 bucks when im all done.. I wonder if a wrecker would let me saw all the whole fire wall out

For real? You guys need AC in Canada?

I know it's a PITA to ship to Canada, but I could'a cut a section of firewall out of the cab I just scrapped if you acquire the OEM stuff from a local wrecking yard.
Put you a WANTED request in the Classifieds. Surely someone may be scrapping a cab sooner or later.

 

[chengny]

what all is needed inside? controls with cables. Anything else?

The air handling components of an A/C equipped truck are operated by vacuum - tapped off the engines intake manifold.

So if you locate a donor truck you will be pulling a vacuum tubing harness as well as the electrical harness.

Easy pull - maybe 15 - 20 minutes.

After the harnesses are out, unbolt and pull both sides of the air handler. The halves are divided by the firewall.

The parts inside the cab include:

1.The main box (which contains the blend door, and several dampers that control the flow of air)

2. Several sections of duct work and a hose

3. The dash bezel (it has outlets for the A/C mode that heat only lacks) and the dash trim piece (again, it has openings for cool air flow).

4. There is also a recirc door on the passengers side (used when in MAX A/C mode) instead of the heat only manually operated door.

On the engine side of the air handler is just:

1. The big black box that houses the evaporator coil and the blower with it's associated motor. Also attached to it are the blower resistor stack and the fan contactor.

2. The filter/drier (the low pressure switch - controls the compressor cut in/out - is screwed into the filter drier). This item is also attached to the evap housing

3. The fresh air inlet flap - in the void space under the wiper cowling (passenger side)

In the engine compartment proper:

1. Pull the condenser (requires removal of the radiator)

2. The refrigerant liquid line (connects the bottom of the condenser to the evap coil

3. The compressor (if it is any good) and any required bracketing

4. The compressor suction and discharge hoses

That's everything.

If you decide to go for it bump this thread - I have a simple quick method to target and cut the hole in the firewall. Covering the old "heat only" opening in the firewall is wicked easy - it just involves a piece of thin sheet metal and a pop rivet gun.

 

[Konas new ride]

For real? You guys need AC in Canada?

I know it's a PITA to ship to Canada, but I could'a cut a section of firewall out of the cab I just scrapped if you acquire the OEM stuff from a local wrecking yard.
Put you a WANTED request in the Classifieds. Surely someone may be scrapping a cab sooner or later.

Where we are moving to it gets up to 110f for a while and over 90 for weeks at a time.. If i was staying in Alberta i wouldn't worry about it...

As for shipping here its not worth it. I will find a wrecker that will let me cut out what i need.

 

[Konas new ride]

what all is needed inside? controls with cables. Anything else?

The air handling components of an A/C equipped truck are operated by vacuum - tapped off the engines intake manifold.

So if you locate a donor truck you will be pulling a vacuum tubing harness as well as the electrical harness.

Easy pull - maybe 15 - 20 minutes.

After the harnesses are out, unbolt and pull both sides of the air handler. The halves are divided by the firewall.

The parts inside the cab include:

1.The main box (which contains the blend door, and several dampers that control the flow of air)

2. Several sections of duct work and a hose

3. The dash bezel (it has outlets for the A/C mode that heat only lacks) and the dash trim piece (again, it has openings for cool air flow).

4. There is also a recirc door on the passengers side (used when in MAX A/C mode) instead of the heat only manually operated door.

On the engine side of the air handler is just:

1. The big black box that houses the evaporator coil and the blower with it's associated motor. Also attached to it are the blower resistor stack and the fan contactor.

2. The filter/drier (the low pressure switch - controls the compressor cut in/out - is screwed into the filter drier). This item is also attached to the evap housing

3. The fresh air inlet flap - in the void space under the wiper cowling (passenger side)

In the engine compartment proper:

1. Pull the condenser (requires removal of the radiator)

2. The refrigerant liquid line (connects the bottom of the condenser to the evap coil

3. The compressor (if it is any good) and any required bracketing

4. The compressor suction and discharge hoses

That's everything.

If you decide to go for it bump this thread - I have a simple quick method to target and cut the hole in the firewall. Covering the old "heat only" opening in the firewall is wicked easy - it just involves a piece of thin sheet metal and a pop rivet gun.

Thanks for that write up.. That makes it seem a lot less troublesome..

 

[chengny]

Believe it or not the biggest hassle is removing one particular sheet metal screw. It is buried behind the inner fender. I get it out by pulling the blower, reaching down into the plenum and screwing it out backwards. It is common to both A/C & non-A/C blower housings and really should be re-installed to prevent air leakage.

When I go to re-install, the fender is usually in place making it extremely hard to get the screw back in. As a work around, I use a short bolt/machine screw and drill the hole in the firewall out a bit. Glue the bolt in place in the housing with a bit of silicone and when everything is in place, reach down through the blower opening and thread a nut on the bolt.