91 v2500 4L80e retainer clip identification S.O.S.

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enduroance

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Hey everyone, could use some guidance here. In a bit of a bind otherwise I'd take however long to research this. Overhauling my truck before hitting the road full time next week, currently replacing rad, trans cool lines, fluid, filter and wiring harness in trans. Discovered the shop that did my trans overhaul a year or so ago mangled it and slobbered it with rtv to hide it. Also found a small retainer clip in the pan. At least the ears of one. I have located where it came from but I have no clue what to call it in order to find the specs to get a new one. It is located right next to where the dip stick enters the pan, up inside of a recess. In the photo you can see the remainder of it.
Any help in identifying would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!
 

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bucket

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That's just a snap ring. Well, more specifically it's an "internal" type snap ring.

If you get the remainder of it out, you could match it up with a new one at any decent (old style) hardware store. However, it may be a b!tch to get out with those two pieces broken off. Honestly, I wouldn't even be worried about it coming out on it's own and I'd probably just leave it be.
 

enduroance

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@bucket thanks for the reply! I'm kinda thinking I might just leave it. Any idea what the name of the cylinder that it's holding is? I'm assuming there is a spring behind it.
 

bucket

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I've got no idea what's behind it. I'm sure an expert like @NickTransmissions can tell us though. And confirm whether or not it's a bad idea to leave it alone.
 

enduroance

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That'd be great. I'm going to be towing my camper trailer with this truck over long distances and peace of mind can be based directly on trans health.
I could compare the old one with a new clip, but it's possible the shop put the wrong one in and that lead to it snapping. So I'd like to figure out oem specs for thickness as I can't get my calipers up inside of that recess and I don't know how much spring force is on the remainder.

The drain plug pans were too expensive at the moment and I didn't want to risk drilling mine. With the big chunk missing from the rear of the trans courtesy of the shop that worked on it, once I get it sealed I'd like to keep it that way rather than go back in to do this clip down the road.
I replaced the wiring harness and lubed it while installing it because it was leaking there badly.
The shop mangled the o ring.
Already removed the old filter bushing and installed the new one.
The old cooler lines are removed and brand new steel braided ones are on hand ready to go on.

All that's left is this clip, a corrected "full mark" on the dipstick level with the top of the pan. Filter, gasket, pan install. Then of course fill.
It may be leaking at the speed sensor as well, but that is an external repair easily done down the road.
 

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NickTransmissions

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That'd be great. I'm going to be towing my camper trailer with this truck over long distances and peace of mind can be based directly on trans health.
I could compare the old one with a new clip, but it's possible the shop put the wrong one in and that lead to it snapping. So I'd like to figure out oem specs for thickness as I can't get my calipers up inside of that recess and I don't know how much spring force is on the remainder.

The drain plug pans were too expensive at the moment and I didn't want to risk drilling mine. With the big chunk missing from the rear of the trans courtesy of the shop that worked on it, once I get it sealed I'd like to keep it that way rather than go back in to do this clip down the road.
I replaced the wiring harness and lubed it while installing it because it was leaking there badly.
The shop mangled the o ring.
Already removed the old filter bushing and installed the new one.
The old cooler lines are removed and brand new steel braided ones are on hand ready to go on.

All that's left is this clip, a corrected "full mark" on the dipstick level with the top of the pan. Filter, gasket, pan install. Then of course fill.
It may be leaking at the speed sensor as well, but that is an external repair easily done down the road.
Damn - they mangled it for sure...Lol.

That appears to be the converter clutch apply valve but you zoomed in so close it's actually hard to tell but I'm fairly positive that's what I'm looking at in the first picture. I'd grab a good-used snap ring and install it in place of what's there...Perhaps an end plug kit from Sonnax as well, just to eliminate the possibility it breaks on you...

The last picture appears to show what remains of the boost valve snap ring...Same deal - replace with a good-used one...I'd also install Sonnax's 4L80E-LB1 boost valve kit while you're at it and perhaps their Lube-regulated pressure regulator valve...Both will improve the pressure regulation inside the unit, eliminate any potential for WOT slippage, back-breaking slam-shifts or other drivability symptoms associated with worn boost valve and/or pressure regulator valve circuits in those transmissions.

LMK if you have any addl questions (please quote my post or mention me as I don't get alerts otherwise)
 

enduroance

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@NickTransmissions thanks for the info!
So the first two pictures in the original post are of the same area. The second two photos are of the pan where I found the clip pieces.
The second set of photos I posted are just illustrating the places that were messed up by the shop.
There is only one problem area and it's where this broken snap ring resides.
I've included a better photo to identify the location.
Also I found in the repair manual what I believe to be the part I am trying to identify, however when I try to Google search for tcc valve I am only given valves that reside in the valve body proper. And this area that has the snapped snap ring is up inside of the upper half of the transmission rather than down where the valve body is.
 

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NickTransmissions

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@enduroance - What you highlighted in the diagram is correct. The TCC apply, limit and enable valves are in the pump while the TCC regulator valve is in the valve body...Hope that helps.
 

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