89S 350 TBI Head Gasket Replacement Project

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dhamp

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You need to fire your mechanic cuz he don't know his ass. You don't run a 160 or a 180. You run a 195 so you can get the computer into closed loop mode at 187-192 degrees.

I've changed out (lowered) t-stats on cars in the past thinking it would be good for the engine to be cooler. :sorry: That also explains why both of my Nissan DDs always stinks up the garage so bad when you start them cold.
 

dhamp

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Could be, I can see how it would affect the computer, but if I put HD heads on it it shouldn't be a problem to run the *195 t stat I would think. :hmm:

Sounds to me like you're fine as long as you're anywhere above 187-ish and below HOT.
 

Old77

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I've changed out (lowered) t-stats on cars in the past thinking it would be good for the engine to be cooler. :sorry: That also explains why both of my Nissan DDs always stinks up the garage so bad when you start them cold.

no....that's the rice :deal:


:lol:
 

89Suburban

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:roflbow:
 

HotRodPC

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195 is not hot and shouldn't be a problem anyway on OEM heads. If they're crack prone heads, they are crack prone heads period. Old old 305's had a problem cracking heads at #7 cylinder. Caused by poor water jacketry in the back of the block. Even though the motor never overheated, that cylinder didn't get cooled in the head very well. Near the combustion chamber is where you need the better cooling. This is why most temp senders or guage senders are in the head instead of intake in later years. They'll be more accurate in the head.
Even non computer small blocks, if performance motor, 160 is too cool. My old 64 GMC ran best at 180-190, so if I ran a race, I had to wait for it to cool down a hair to get back to 180 or so before I ran it again. By the time I warmed up the tires, ran the race and got back it was up to 210, but it did cool quickly when shut off.
 

crazy4offroad

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If mine goes above 205 I get nervous. Above 210 I pull over, let it idle and see if it will cool down on its own while checking for leaks. Near 220 I know something's wrong, shut it off and call someone to give me a tow. Mine can get around 205 pretty easily on a hot summer day idling along through the woods, which is why we mostly do night rides.
 

crazy4offroad

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Holy **** that's high. You gonna buy a bare head or assembled??

EDIT: I dont think that head is gonna be a good match to your other one. I think you'd be better off just buying a pair of vortecs for the price of one single bare head of those you posted. I dont se your casting number on that page anywhere.
 
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89Suburban

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Assembled.
 

Old77

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:popcorn:
 

Manbearpig

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**** if you wait a few months Ill sell you some nice fully rebuilt 193 heads that barely have 500 miles on them :crazy:
 

bucket

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You need to fire your mechanic cuz he don't know his ass. You don't run a 160 or a 180. You run a 195 so you can get the computer into closed loop mode at 187-192 degrees.

180 works fine. I like to run everything with a 180 stat, including my TBI Burb. It works fine, never has any trouble going into closed loop, lets me bump the timing without detonation (more power and MPG), plus it's still warm enough for EXCELLENT heat in the wintertime. True, I also run a heated O2 sensor, but that's because I also run longtube headers... it still always went to closed loop with the stock O2 sensor.

Yes, 160 is too cold.
 

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I need to get caught up on this closed loop thang. :think:
 

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