79 Trans am

[Crispy]

Inline tube makes direct fit kits. I've heard nothing but good things from them.

 

[CSFJ]

I have seen those kits on ebay cheap like 60 for a whole squarebody truck etc. with different lengths and fittings. I figured they were too cheap or being abl to bend that easy might blow out or something. I was hoping to find more reviews or somebody who had used them

That was my thoughts too, but I still haven't heard anything negative about them. I thought they were more expensive, but then, I've never priced them either.

Inline tube makes direct fit kits. I've heard nothing but good things from them.

Also an excellent option. Iirc, there's a place in the Detroit area making prebent stainless lines. No idea on price though. I imagine shipping would be a pita also.

 

[Swims350]

I could be wrong but I thought those tur bend kits on ebay were ni cop ones. I know local places are carrying straight in nicop I think.

The pre bent tainless kits are around 200 and maybe you can find free shipping pre bent reg. steel runs like 150 so not alot of difference but compared to 75 or so for straights, big difference.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

So the S10 spindles bolt on? If so, I really need to go junkyarding.

As for the brakes, it's only the later S10 Blazers and counterparts that got the better caliper/disc setup. Pickups made do with the same old single piston setup. The pickups all got rear drum too.

Easy way to find the good calipers.....gen 2 Olds Bravada

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I could be wrong but I thought those tur bend kits on ebay were ni cop ones. I know local places are carrying straight in nicop I think.

The pre bent tainless kits are around 200 and maybe you can find free shipping pre bent reg. steel runs like 150 so not alot of difference but compared to 75 or so for straights, big difference.

Just get some NiCop and bend it your self. Stainless is a bitch to work with. I did my entire truck for less the 85 bucks.

 

[Swims350]

yea those ture bend lines on ebay say they are double layered copper or whatever but not ni cop I swear I saw it before, maybe it was th elocal lines at th eparts stores.

 

[RecklessWOT]

I meant the pickups kept the single piston front calipers. So you had a pickup that was not drum rear?

I could be wrong about all this now. I used to pay attention to what came under all the newer models that came into the shop. So I knew what to get as junkyard upgrades for my '91. But, that S10 is long gone and I've been away from the shop for several years now.

It may not have been factory, but yeah it had discs in the rear. That thing was a hack job, I bought it as a 7 year old truck for $400 so who knows. The ZR2 Blazer I was the second owner of and it was one of my best friend's trucks before me, so I KNOW it was all stock, but I got that pickup from some dude I worked with and he was selling it for his kid brother who was in jail. It would not surprise me if it was just some junkyard swap from one of the times he wrecked it. It sure looked stock though

 

[4WDKC]

So the S10 spindles bolt on? If so, I really need to go junkyarding.

As for the brakes, it's only the later S10 Blazers and counterparts that got the better caliper/disc setup. Pickups made do with the same old single piston setup. The pickups all got rear drum too.

Where I was going with this is similar to this swap

Big 12" front Brakes for 2nd gen F body for relatively cheap.

How To: Install Big Brakes on Gen2 F-Body
Read it Carefully.

Thanks to Steve Chin for getting his info up on the web.
His article goes into far greater detail than the magazine article ever did.
Station wagons are a pretty safe bet for most of the parts save the for the rotors.


Just one caveat: Old high mileage "B body" calipers you find may be toast unless you just happen to stumble upon a real cherry of a car that was really well maintained befor it went to salvage. Mic the used rotors before you by them.Same goes for the '87 3rd gen F bod (Formula/TA)1LE rotors you may find in the bone yard.
If you plan on buying reman. fully loaded calipers get the old ones off the donor car for cores or throw your swapped out calipers in the boxes to return for cores.
If you by new there is no core charge and no need for extra door stops.
The spindles , spash shields and other hardware are the important parts.
Bearings, rotors, new tie rod ends, seals ,calipers and hoses can all still be obtained at most auto parts stores
New rotors will have the races already pressed in so when you buy your new bearings you will end up with an extra set of new races you can use as paper weights.
Remember the nature of your swap (document it with part #'s & the year & model car the parts were taken from.) so if you ever get in a lazy mode and take it to a shop to have the brakes or bearings serviced the mechanic working on it will know what parts to get and not make the mistake of getting the generic model year parts the car originally came with.Also good for a new owner to know all this if you ever happen to sell the car.It'll save on a lot of red faces too.

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But to also look up the caliper upgrade to ls calipers coupled with the 12" rotors above and you have big brake upgrade on the cheap with GM parts.. Ill keep looking for links

 

[4WDKC]

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/89673-2nd-gen-brake-options

 

[bucket]

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/89673-2nd-gen-brake-options

That Customworks place is bookmarked now! My wish list just grew substantially.

 

[Swims350]

nevermind lol

 

[Swims350]

I thought it was Chris Austin chassisworks, maybe I'm thinking wrong but there was them, pro touring f body, and some others I forget now. I know global west, I think maybe bmr or something and some others with alot of much wanted parts, same things subframe bushings, g braces, subframe ties etc.

 

[Swims350]

well bucket and I have discussed this but for everyone else....

I got in touch with the PO before the PO I got this from, he had the trim tag for it, he is the one who had the body work and paint done and the custom air brushing.

Well I'm kind of stuck now. I originally wanted to paint only things like the firewall, inner fenders, backside of the radiator support shiney black so it'd look better, kind of half done to me. that and of course the entire hood and roof, plus there is a few bubbles, 1 or 2 on each door and quarter, so those need work but honestly I could live with em for now until they get worse.

I WAS going to just do base coat black on those repairs, roof and hood, maybe single stage underhood items, then clear the entire outside again after I wet sanded it since it was never done and you an see the orange peel.

Well after talking with him and seeing the trim tag and decoding, we found this out...

car was mayan red factory, which I really like red. I always want to do red and never do. It also has oyster with carmine accent interior, as in dash console and carpet should be carmine red, door panels, seats etc white or oyster. Now I saw some red ta's on youtbue with red/white interior and personally loved the way it looked. I know for me working on it keeping the white clean will be a tough job. I just hate one door panel a brand new one was white and got dyed red, and the back seats were un torn and white and are red. The carpet is new and perfect but it's black. I'm sure I could remove the dye from the door panel and seats in back, but not sure how great they'll look once done. I also know buying new aint cheap. The front seats would have to be recovered or try to dye them white over the red which is over black which is over dark blue vinyl to begin with lol.

Then the outside, I hate to have to buy a couple gallons of red to do it all, jambs and such, plus the door seals and trunk seals are glued on and new, and would be ruined trying to remove, and not sure I wanna just try and tape them off. I don't really want to do door jambs, and I'm not huge on stock, but I'm kind of drawn to doing it back red outside and then oyster/carmine inside. it would not be 100 percent original stock as I'm still loking at just doing a sunroof, and beefing up the 403 some and not having ac stuff in it. Plus I want some nice polished or chrome wheels.

 

[Swims350]

just some pics of my old man's red trans am from back in the early 90's like 91 or 92 maybe earlier and his friend's white trans am which was the very first car I ever drove.

As for an update I've been tearing the front end apart on my 79, found the DS coil spring had 2 rungs broke off and both seperate and had been that way awhile, rusted body mount bolts and shot bushings of course, rusted stering box and lower control arms bolts. Bad shocks and busted, old gabriel red ryders I hate those things.

I'm thinking of giving tractor supply farm and equipment paint a shot for the frame, and maybe the underhood sheetmetal like the firewall, inner fenders etc, since it doesn't have to be buffed or show car, just nice and shiney and even hopefully.

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[bucket]

The tractor supply paint is ok. You have to thin it out a lot if you want it to spray out ok.